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		<title><![CDATA[DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum]]></title>
		<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/</link>
		<description>DIY discussion community forum for every aspect of Do It Yourself home and house repair, remodel, renovation, improvement and deco.</description>
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		<lastBuildDate>Mon, 20 May 2013 00:19:34 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum]]></title>
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			<title>No Water Running Into or Out of Toilet</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f33/no-water-running-into-out-toilet-15997/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 19 May 2013 23:41:45 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I don't know if the problems I have are connected, or if I have 2 separate ones. My toilet will not flush completely. I have tried filling it with a bucket, but while it does flush it seems like it is clogged somewhere. It does not drain completely, and no water flows back in. I bought a fill valve...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I don't know if the problems I have are connected, or if I have 2 separate ones. My toilet will not flush completely. I have tried filling it with a bucket, but while it does flush it seems like it is clogged somewhere. It does not drain completely, and no water flows back in. I bought a fill valve replacement kit today. I haven't used it yet because when I  turned the water knob on to get water to flow in so it might finish flushing nothing happened. It turns in circles like it is stripped. No water at all. The water in the tub and sink both work fine. I can't afford to hire a plumber right now (Old fridge burned out earlier in the month so had to buy a new one. I am cursed.). I put Drano crystals in the toilet when I thought it was just backed up, but no water and no luck. Now no water runs in or runs out. What can I do to fix this? I am pretty handy. Thanks for any assistance. Jane:(</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f33/">Plumbing Forum</category>
			<dc:creator>jehndrsn</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f33/no-water-running-into-out-toilet-15997/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>genie isd 990 excelerator will not stay on</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f10/genie-isd-990-excelerator-will-not-stay-15996/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 19 May 2013 22:54:04 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have a genie excelerator opener that you push the button, it starts to open/close the door, it moves about a foot and then the opener shuts off and the light starts blinking. I then have to unplug the opener and plug it back in to get any sort of response from it, but it then does the same thing...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a genie excelerator opener that you push the button, it starts to open/close the door, it moves about a foot and then the opener shuts off and the light starts blinking. I then have to unplug the opener and plug it back in to get any sort of response from it, but it then does the same thing still. I can open the door manually just fine, I have cleaned the eyes and replaced the carriage, any ideas?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f10/">Windows and Doors</category>
			<dc:creator>bluekiwi</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f10/genie-isd-990-excelerator-will-not-stay-15996/</guid>
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			<title>Need some advice</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/need-some-advice-15995/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 19 May 2013 22:04:02 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I was wondering if this has happen to anyone before. I have 2 outlets that are on the same wall one has a power supply that has my pc and things pluged into it the other one has nothing pluged into it and this is why if I plug something into the top plug then it will kill the other one with my pc ...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I was wondering if this has happen to anyone before. I have 2 outlets that are on the same wall one has a power supply that has my pc and things pluged into it the other one has nothing pluged into it and this is why if I plug something into the top plug then it will kill the other one with my pc  on it. Now my other question is I  have is the the outlet that my pc is pluged into there are times when it will turn off my pc with no power like if it was dead I used that volt tester that will light up if there is power and I power in the outlet power strip I even show power around the pc I replaced powerstrip but still will do it and it omly like 1 time maybe once a month</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/">Electrical and Wiring</category>
			<dc:creator>BIGBOY96</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/need-some-advice-15995/</guid>
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			<title>drylocking basement and removing mold on concrete</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/drylocking-basement-removing-mold-concrete-15994/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 19 May 2013 21:11:01 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>So my wife and I want to sell our home but before we put in on the market our basement needs some work. We have had some moisture problems mainly because the windows need to be replaced. 
 
How do I go about removing the stains and or black mold? Is it black mold? 
 
I have had about 12 people...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>So my wife and I want to sell our home but before we put in on the market our basement needs some work. We have had some moisture problems mainly because the windows need to be replaced.<br />
<br />
How do I go about removing the stains and or black mold? Is it black mold?<br />
<br />
I have had about 12 people coming and give me estimates and all 12 people have given me different recommendations. Some recommended sealing before dry locking, otherwise in 4 days the basement would look the same.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://pic80.picturetrail.com:80/VOL1933/12016156/21364461/406674247.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://pic80.picturetrail.com:80/VOL1933/12016156/21364461/406674245.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://pic80.picturetrail.com:80/VOL1933/12016156/21364461/406674242.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Is it as simple as scrubbing and painting because their estimates have ranged from 400-$1300.<br />
<br />
Looking for any help!<br />
<br />
Thank you!</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/">General Home Improvement Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>airtas</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/drylocking-basement-removing-mold-concrete-15994/</guid>
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			<title>Exhaust Fan In Bathroom</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/exhaust-fan-bathroom-15993/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 19 May 2013 17:02:41 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I need to replace the exhaust fan in my bathroom.  I have taken off the cover to expose a plate that is in front of the exhaust fan itself, but cannot figure out how to take this plate off to get to the exhaust fan.  The plate is where you replace the light bulbs.  Thanks for your help. 
  
Jay...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I need to replace the exhaust fan in my bathroom.  I have taken off the cover to expose a plate that is in front of the exhaust fan itself, but cannot figure out how to take this plate off to get to the exhaust fan.  The plate is where you replace the light bulbs.  Thanks for your help.<br />
 <br />
Jay Grabowski</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/">General Home Improvement Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>Galaga1</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/exhaust-fan-bathroom-15993/</guid>
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			<title>Hallway header options where door is</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f109/hallway-header-options-where-door-15992/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 18 May 2013 02:01:47 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>So there is a door in our hallway, and another opening down further.  I looked in the attic and the rafters run parallel to the header in the picture below.  The room to the right has nothing on the opposite wall, the room to the left has a wall that lines up with this header.  Wife wants this...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>So there is a door in our hallway, and another opening down further.  I looked in the attic and the rafters run parallel to the header in the picture below.  The room to the right has nothing on the opposite wall, the room to the left has a wall that lines up with this header.  Wife wants this completely gone, which I know I really should hire someone to determine that.  Another option would be to get rid of the header and go up to where the 2 x 4s are running across the hall, give the hall more height here, but I would really need to get the side walls flush to the hall, which I can see the studs holding the header probably aren't doing anything as there is a gap on the verticals above the header.  But the studs going to the top 2x4's may be carrying load.  Wondering if I can put a couple 2x4's under this horizontal ones but in the side walls?  Any thoughts, or recommendations.  You can see the other one down the hall further, nothing in line with it on either side.  <br />
 <br />
<a href="http://s80.photobucket.com/user/infidex/media/photo1-1.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j185/infidex/photo1-1.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /></a></div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f109/">Walls and Ceilings</category>
			<dc:creator>infidex</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f109/hallway-header-options-where-door-15992/</guid>
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			<title>Install Quarter Round when there is large gap underneath the baseboard?</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f13/install-quarter-round-when-there-large-gap-underneath-baseboard-15991/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 18 May 2013 01:06:03 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello. 
 
I recently purchased a house and ripped out all the carpets (so I can refinish the hardwood floor underneath). 
 
I noticed is that the gaps underneath the Baseboard for two walls are fairly big. The biggest spots are 1/2 inch to 11/16th of an inch. While the quarter mould would cover it,...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello.<br />
<br />
I recently purchased a house and ripped out all the carpets (so I can refinish the hardwood floor underneath).<br />
<br />
I noticed is that the gaps underneath the Baseboard for two walls are fairly big. The biggest spots are 1/2 inch to 11/16th of an inch. While the quarter mould would cover it, nailing the mould to the baseboard will be impossible in those areas.<br />
<br />
Just wondering what are my options. Should I remove and reattach the baseboards? (Will require redoing all the baseboards in both rooms)  nail the quarter into the floor? use glue?<br />
<br />
Thanks.<br />
<br />
[pictures of the gap underneath the baseboard]: <a href="http://imgur.com/a/p68lf" target="_blank">http://imgur.com/a/p68lf</a></div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f13/">Flooring</category>
			<dc:creator>Dimeron</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f13/install-quarter-round-when-there-large-gap-underneath-baseboard-15991/</guid>
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			<title>Need some help</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f55/need-some-help-15990/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 18 May 2013 00:33:14 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have a few photos that I would like to show anyone. And I need some advice on what and how I can fix this. This is in my garage also just for the record the way this was done is not the right way right 
 
Attachment 5079 (http://www.houserepairtalk.com/attachments/f55/5079-need-some-help-image-3394852624.jpg) 
 
 
...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a few photos that I would like to show anyone. And I need some advice on what and how I can fix this. This is in my garage also just for the record the way this was done is not the right way right<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/attachments/f55/5079-need-some-help-image-3394852624.jpg" target="_blank" title="Name:  
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<a href="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/attachments/f55/5080-need-some-help-image-3065670306.jpg" target="_blank" title="Name:  
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Size:  ">Attachment 5080</a><br />
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<a href="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/attachments/f55/5081-need-some-help-image-1409980189.jpg" target="_blank" title="Name:  
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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f55/">General Chit-Chat</category>
			<dc:creator>BIGBOY96</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f55/need-some-help-15990/</guid>
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			<title>Hall Way Door - Is this load bearing?</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f32/hall-way-door-load-bearing-15989/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 17 May 2013 23:56:44 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello,  
I'm in the process of getting rid of the wood trim on the lower half of our hallway, and I'm at a point where I reached a door jam that is in an odd place in the hall.  Wife doesn't really want a door here, would prefer the hallway to continue with out the step in for the door jam/door.  I...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello, <br />
I'm in the process of getting rid of the wood trim on the lower half of our hallway, and I'm at a point where I reached a door jam that is in an odd place in the hall.  Wife doesn't really want a door here, would prefer the hallway to continue with out the step in for the door jam/door.  I pull the door and framing off, and pulled off the sheetrock on one side of the header area.  Question is, can I take this all down and make it so the walls and ceiling are continuous down the hall.  There is another one part way down the hall.  I need to go up in the attic, but I am pretty sure it run parallel to the rafter beams, there is nothing on the other side of the hall on the right, to the left there is a foyer and the foyer wall is in line with this one.  Here are some pics, the small 2x4's above the header aren't even resting on the header.  <br />
<br />
EDIT....  Just went into attic, so if your looking at the first pic, the beams in attic run parallel to the header in this area.  The wall on the left actually extends up into the attic an extra 2 feet because the rooms on the left side of the hallway are 2 foot taller ceilings.  <br />
 <br />
<a href="http://s80.photobucket.com/user/infidex/media/photo1-1.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j185/infidex/photo1-1.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /></a><br />
 <br />
<a href="http://s80.photobucket.com/user/infidex/media/photo2.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j185/infidex/photo2.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /></a></div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f32/">Framing and Foundation</category>
			<dc:creator>infidex</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f32/hall-way-door-load-bearing-15989/</guid>
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			<title>Req opinions on professionally completed drain repair.</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f33/req-opinions-professionally-completed-drain-repair-15988/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 17 May 2013 19:23:38 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Just had a portion of a corroded and split cast iron drain pipe replaced with PVC. Was wondering what your opinion is regarding their choice of repair method. As can be seen in the attached diagram the split (designated in red) was in a service sweep of the kitchen drain. They chose to cut the pipe...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Just had a portion of a corroded and split cast iron drain pipe replaced with PVC. Was wondering what your opinion is regarding their choice of repair method. As can be seen in the attached diagram the split (designated in red) was in a service sweep of the kitchen drain. They chose to cut the pipe right at the end of the split/corrosion leaving about a one inch stub in the wye to which they added a Fernco style coupler and new PVC which extended into the basement then mating to the existing copper drain from the kitchen sink. Even though I questioned them on numerous occasions as to why they wouldn't simply remove the lead packing and remaining few inches of pipe they insisted this repair would be standard in the industry.<br />
<br />
Second on my list was their labor charge. They contracted for 3+ days of work but finished in under 9 hours (6 hours/2.5 hours). When I questioned if there might be an adjustment to the final price it was stated that for &quot;my&quot; benefit he place two men on the job to speed the repair minimizing down-time of our kitchen sink. LOL. Now how many jobs such as this would a plumbing company assign a single plumber? They had intended to jack-hammer two separate 4'x4' areas of the slab on either side of an interior wall to gain access to the failed pipe, I find it hard to believe a plumbers helper would not be standard for a situation requiring this amount of grunt work. In the end they only required one 3.5'x2' hole to facilitate repairs.<br />
<br />
I'm hoping some industry pro's or homeowners with experience could lend opinions as to whether the choice of repair type and billing concerns are warranted or silly. As an FYI - The company doing the job was not a large multi-state entity nor were they an independent working from their garage and I should add their daily labor rate was $800 so he was trying to attempt justifying $1600/day for two on-site.</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f33/">Plumbing Forum</category>
			<dc:creator>golem</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f33/req-opinions-professionally-completed-drain-repair-15988/</guid>
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			<title>Shower faucet leaking when shower is on and replacing stem does not help</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f33/shower-faucet-leaking-when-shower-replacing-stem-does-not-help-15987/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 17 May 2013 18:25:16 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi all, 
 
I have a hot water shower faucet that is leaking only when I turn on the shower. It is leaking at the o-ring where the stem screws into the pipe. The stem is a Price Pfister 5084: <a href="http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/the-72661/Detail"...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi all,<br />
<br />
I have a hot water shower faucet that is leaking only when I turn on the shower. It is leaking at the o-ring where the stem screws into the pipe. The stem is a Price Pfister 5084: <a href="http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/the-72661/Detail" target="_blank">http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/the-72661/Detail</a>. <br />
<br />
I have replaced it with a new Price Pfister 5084 stem, but it's leaking like before. Then I put one more o-ring before the o-ring on the stem and screw the stem into the pipe. It no longer leaks where the stem screws into the pipe, but starts to leak around the white stopper when the shower is on.<br />
<br />
What could be the problem with this?<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
<br />
smz</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f33/">Plumbing Forum</category>
			<dc:creator>smz</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f33/shower-faucet-leaking-when-shower-replacing-stem-does-not-help-15987/</guid>
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			<title>Kitchen flooring</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f13/kitchen-flooring-15986/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 17 May 2013 16:42:03 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>My wife and I would like to remove a kitchen base cabinet and make a walk through to our kitchen.  I am looking for Domco Eloquence, 70024. Any size will help. Thanks</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>My wife and I would like to remove a kitchen base cabinet and make a walk through to our kitchen.  I am looking for Domco Eloquence, 70024. Any size will help. Thanks</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f13/">Flooring</category>
			<dc:creator>traveln04</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f13/kitchen-flooring-15986/</guid>
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			<title>Granite Installed - Possible Issue?</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/granite-installed-possible-issue-15985/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 16 May 2013 22:59:26 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I believe the top of the bar/breakfast shelf is mostly level (both front to back and along the length) but I can see wood hanging down below the granite on the back side of the bar at one end.  The bar was previously tiled and both the bottom and top looked level with nothing unusual showing...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I believe the top of the bar/breakfast shelf is mostly level (both front to back and along the length) but I can see wood hanging down below the granite on the back side of the bar at one end.  The bar was previously tiled and both the bottom and top looked level with nothing unusual showing underneath.  It appears that the granite is resting on the backsplash of the kitchen counter behind it not on the underlying wood itself.  The installer could only screw the wood down over the wall portion of the bar and I believed he might have over torque the screws sinking the wood down on the back half of bar.  It was the last counter they installed and I only saw him measure the center for level.  I question if the bar is even sitting on the wood support itself (it appears to be resting on the backsplash) and I can put my finger between the granite and wood.  Is this acceptable work?  I just don’t believe I should see wood like that…something more professional needed to be done.  Please tell me what you think.</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/">General Home Improvement Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>granite516</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/granite-installed-possible-issue-15985/</guid>
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			<title>Lawnmower Question</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/lawnmower-question-15984/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 16 May 2013 20:24:10 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[My lawnmower was inherited with the house, I don't know too much about it other than it does start.  
 
The problem I have is that when it starts it seems to spudder, if i try to cut the grass it stalls when it hits the low end of the spudder. I'm not sure how old it is but would a simple oil...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>My lawnmower was inherited with the house, I don't know too much about it other than it does start. <br />
<br />
The problem I have is that when it starts it seems to spudder, if i try to cut the grass it stalls when it hits the low end of the spudder. I'm not sure how old it is but would a simple oil change, spark plug be worth a try?<br />
<br />
I can try to take a video of the spuddering if it will help. thanks</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/">General Home Improvement Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>drewdin</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/lawnmower-question-15984/</guid>
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			<title>How do I fill in a Koi Pond?</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f103/how-do-i-fill-koi-pond-15983/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 16 May 2013 18:53:01 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[This Koi pond sans Koi is now home to way too many frogs, lizards, snakes, etc and is just too high maintenance. It's solid rock with a water feature inbedded in concrete and has a black lining to hold the water in the pond.  
 
The pumps don't work; previous owner says he went through about 4-5...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>This Koi pond sans Koi is now home to way too many frogs, lizards, snakes, etc and is just too high maintenance. It's solid rock with a water feature inbedded in concrete and has a black lining to hold the water in the pond. <br />
<br />
The pumps don't work; previous owner says he went through about 4-5 pumps so it's basically just sitting water and with rainy/hurricane season knocking on the door, I'd rather not deal with it as a pond.    <br />
<br />
How would you go about filling this pond in and making some kind of a dry pond, pond-less waterfall or a planter, while keeping the bridge and moving the plant life from around it to perhaps...in it? <br />
<br />
Thanks!<br />
<br />
 <img src="http://imageshack.us/a/img94/4115/koipond.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f103/">Garden and Lawncare</category>
			<dc:creator>o2284200</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f103/how-do-i-fill-koi-pond-15983/</guid>
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