<?xml version="1.0" encoding="ISO-8859-1"?>

<rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/">
	<channel>
		<title><![CDATA[DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum]]></title>
		<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/</link>
		<description>DIY discussion community forum for every aspect of Do It Yourself home and house repair, remodel, renovation, improvement and deco.</description>
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Sun, 19 May 2013 09:50:40 GMT</lastBuildDate>
		<generator>vBulletin</generator>
		<ttl>60</ttl>
		<image>
			<url>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/images/misc/rss.jpg</url>
			<title><![CDATA[DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum]]></title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/</link>
		</image>
		<item>
			<title>Hallway header options where door is</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f109/hallway-header-options-where-door-15992/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 18 May 2013 02:01:47 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>So there is a door in our hallway, and another opening down further.  I looked in the attic and the rafters run parallel to the header in the picture below.  The room to the right has nothing on the opposite wall, the room to the left has a wall that lines up with this header.  Wife wants this...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>So there is a door in our hallway, and another opening down further.  I looked in the attic and the rafters run parallel to the header in the picture below.  The room to the right has nothing on the opposite wall, the room to the left has a wall that lines up with this header.  Wife wants this completely gone, which I know I really should hire someone to determine that.  Another option would be to get rid of the header and go up to where the 2 x 4s are running across the hall, give the hall more height here, but I would really need to get the side walls flush to the hall, which I can see the studs holding the header probably aren't doing anything as there is a gap on the verticals above the header.  But the studs going to the top 2x4's may be carrying load.  Wondering if I can put a couple 2x4's under this horizontal ones but in the side walls?  Any thoughts, or recommendations.  You can see the other one down the hall further, nothing in line with it on either side.  <br />
 <br />
<a href="http://s80.photobucket.com/user/infidex/media/photo1-1.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j185/infidex/photo1-1.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /></a></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f109/">Walls and Ceilings</category>
			<dc:creator>infidex</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f109/hallway-header-options-where-door-15992/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Install Quarter Round when there is large gap underneath the baseboard?</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f13/install-quarter-round-when-there-large-gap-underneath-baseboard-15991/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 18 May 2013 01:06:03 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello. 
 
I recently purchased a house and ripped out all the carpets (so I can refinish the hardwood floor underneath). 
 
I noticed is that the gaps underneath the Baseboard for two walls are fairly big. The biggest spots are 1/2 inch to 11/16th of an inch. While the quarter mould would cover it,...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello.<br />
<br />
I recently purchased a house and ripped out all the carpets (so I can refinish the hardwood floor underneath).<br />
<br />
I noticed is that the gaps underneath the Baseboard for two walls are fairly big. The biggest spots are 1/2 inch to 11/16th of an inch. While the quarter mould would cover it, nailing the mould to the baseboard will be impossible in those areas.<br />
<br />
Just wondering what are my options. Should I remove and reattach the baseboards? (Will require redoing all the baseboards in both rooms)  nail the quarter into the floor? use glue?<br />
<br />
Thanks.<br />
<br />
[pictures of the gap underneath the baseboard]: <a href="http://imgur.com/a/p68lf" target="_blank">http://imgur.com/a/p68lf</a></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f13/">Flooring</category>
			<dc:creator>Dimeron</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f13/install-quarter-round-when-there-large-gap-underneath-baseboard-15991/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Need some help</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f55/need-some-help-15990/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 18 May 2013 00:33:14 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have a few photos that I would like to show anyone. And I need some advice on what and how I can fix this. This is in my garage also just for the record the way this was done is not the right way right 
 
Attachment 5079 (http://www.houserepairtalk.com/attachments/f55/5079-need-some-help-image-3394852624.jpg) 
 
 
...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a few photos that I would like to show anyone. And I need some advice on what and how I can fix this. This is in my garage also just for the record the way this was done is not the right way right<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/attachments/f55/5079-need-some-help-image-3394852624.jpg" target="_blank" title="Name:  
Views: 
Size:  ">Attachment 5079</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/attachments/f55/5080-need-some-help-image-3065670306.jpg" target="_blank" title="Name:  
Views: 
Size:  ">Attachment 5080</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/attachments/f55/5081-need-some-help-image-1409980189.jpg" target="_blank" title="Name:  
Views: 
Size:  ">Attachment 5081</a></div>


	<br />
	<div style="padding:6px">

	

	
		<fieldset class="fieldset">
			<legend>Attached Images</legend>
			<div style="padding:3px">
			<img class="attach" src="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/attachments/f55/5079d1368837072-need-some-help-image-3394852624.jpg" border="0" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" alt="" /><br><br><img class="attach" src="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/attachments/f55/5080d1368837081-need-some-help-image-3065670306.jpg" border="0" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" alt="" /><br><br><img class="attach" src="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/attachments/f55/5081d1368837089-need-some-help-image-1409980189.jpg" border="0" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" alt="" /><br><br>
			</div>
		</fieldset>
	

	

	

	</div>
]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f55/">General Chit-Chat</category>
			<dc:creator>BIGBOY96</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f55/need-some-help-15990/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Hall Way Door - Is this load bearing?</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f32/hall-way-door-load-bearing-15989/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 17 May 2013 23:56:44 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello,  
I'm in the process of getting rid of the wood trim on the lower half of our hallway, and I'm at a point where I reached a door jam that is in an odd place in the hall.  Wife doesn't really want a door here, would prefer the hallway to continue with out the step in for the door jam/door.  I...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello, <br />
I'm in the process of getting rid of the wood trim on the lower half of our hallway, and I'm at a point where I reached a door jam that is in an odd place in the hall.  Wife doesn't really want a door here, would prefer the hallway to continue with out the step in for the door jam/door.  I pull the door and framing off, and pulled off the sheetrock on one side of the header area.  Question is, can I take this all down and make it so the walls and ceiling are continuous down the hall.  There is another one part way down the hall.  I need to go up in the attic, but I am pretty sure it run parallel to the rafter beams, there is nothing on the other side of the hall on the right, to the left there is a foyer and the foyer wall is in line with this one.  Here are some pics, the small 2x4's above the header aren't even resting on the header.  <br />
<br />
EDIT....  Just went into attic, so if your looking at the first pic, the beams in attic run parallel to the header in this area.  The wall on the left actually extends up into the attic an extra 2 feet because the rooms on the left side of the hallway are 2 foot taller ceilings.  <br />
 <br />
<a href="http://s80.photobucket.com/user/infidex/media/photo1-1.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j185/infidex/photo1-1.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /></a><br />
 <br />
<a href="http://s80.photobucket.com/user/infidex/media/photo2.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j185/infidex/photo2.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /></a></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f32/">Framing and Foundation</category>
			<dc:creator>infidex</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f32/hall-way-door-load-bearing-15989/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Req opinions on professionally completed drain repair.</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f33/req-opinions-professionally-completed-drain-repair-15988/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 17 May 2013 19:23:38 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Just had a portion of a corroded and split cast iron drain pipe replaced with PVC. Was wondering what your opinion is regarding their choice of repair method. As can be seen in the attached diagram the split (designated in red) was in a service sweep of the kitchen drain. They chose to cut the pipe...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Just had a portion of a corroded and split cast iron drain pipe replaced with PVC. Was wondering what your opinion is regarding their choice of repair method. As can be seen in the attached diagram the split (designated in red) was in a service sweep of the kitchen drain. They chose to cut the pipe right at the end of the split/corrosion leaving about a one inch stub in the wye to which they added a Fernco style coupler and new PVC which extended into the basement then mating to the existing copper drain from the kitchen sink. Even though I questioned them on numerous occasions as to why they wouldn't simply remove the lead packing and remaining few inches of pipe they insisted this repair would be standard in the industry.<br />
<br />
Second on my list was their labor charge. They contracted for 3+ days of work but finished in under 9 hours (6 hours/2.5 hours). When I questioned if there might be an adjustment to the final price it was stated that for &quot;my&quot; benefit he place two men on the job to speed the repair minimizing down-time of our kitchen sink. LOL. Now how many jobs such as this would a plumbing company assign a single plumber? They had intended to jack-hammer two separate 4'x4' areas of the slab on either side of an interior wall to gain access to the failed pipe, I find it hard to believe a plumbers helper would not be standard for a situation requiring this amount of grunt work. In the end they only required one 3.5'x2' hole to facilitate repairs.<br />
<br />
I'm hoping some industry pro's or homeowners with experience could lend opinions as to whether the choice of repair type and billing concerns are warranted or silly. As an FYI - The company doing the job was not a large multi-state entity nor were they an independent working from their garage and I should add their daily labor rate was $800 so he was trying to attempt justifying $1600/day for two on-site.</div>


	<br />
	<div style="padding:6px">

	

	
		<fieldset class="fieldset">
			<legend>Attached Images</legend>
			<div style="padding:3px">
			<img class="attach" src="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/attachments/f33/5078d1368818571-req-opinions-professionally-completed-drain-repair-drain_pipe.jpg" border="0" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" alt="" /><br><br>
			</div>
		</fieldset>
	

	

	

	</div>
]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f33/">Plumbing Forum</category>
			<dc:creator>golem</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f33/req-opinions-professionally-completed-drain-repair-15988/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Shower faucet leaking when shower is on and replacing stem does not help</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f33/shower-faucet-leaking-when-shower-replacing-stem-does-not-help-15987/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 17 May 2013 18:25:16 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi all, 
 
I have a hot water shower faucet that is leaking only when I turn on the shower. It is leaking at the o-ring where the stem screws into the pipe. The stem is a Price Pfister 5084: <a href="http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/the-72661/Detail"...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi all,<br />
<br />
I have a hot water shower faucet that is leaking only when I turn on the shower. It is leaking at the o-ring where the stem screws into the pipe. The stem is a Price Pfister 5084: <a href="http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/the-72661/Detail" target="_blank">http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/the-72661/Detail</a>. <br />
<br />
I have replaced it with a new Price Pfister 5084 stem, but it's leaking like before. Then I put one more o-ring before the o-ring on the stem and screw the stem into the pipe. It no longer leaks where the stem screws into the pipe, but starts to leak around the white stopper when the shower is on.<br />
<br />
What could be the problem with this?<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
<br />
smz</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f33/">Plumbing Forum</category>
			<dc:creator>smz</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f33/shower-faucet-leaking-when-shower-replacing-stem-does-not-help-15987/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Kitchen flooring</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f13/kitchen-flooring-15986/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 17 May 2013 16:42:03 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>My wife and I would like to remove a kitchen base cabinet and make a walk through to our kitchen.  I am looking for Domco Eloquence, 70024. Any size will help. Thanks</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>My wife and I would like to remove a kitchen base cabinet and make a walk through to our kitchen.  I am looking for Domco Eloquence, 70024. Any size will help. Thanks</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f13/">Flooring</category>
			<dc:creator>traveln04</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f13/kitchen-flooring-15986/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Granite Installed - Possible Issue?</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/granite-installed-possible-issue-15985/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 16 May 2013 22:59:26 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I believe the top of the bar/breakfast shelf is mostly level (both front to back and along the length) but I can see wood hanging down below the granite on the back side of the bar at one end.  The bar was previously tiled and both the bottom and top looked level with nothing unusual showing...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I believe the top of the bar/breakfast shelf is mostly level (both front to back and along the length) but I can see wood hanging down below the granite on the back side of the bar at one end.  The bar was previously tiled and both the bottom and top looked level with nothing unusual showing underneath.  It appears that the granite is resting on the backsplash of the kitchen counter behind it not on the underlying wood itself.  The installer could only screw the wood down over the wall portion of the bar and I believed he might have over torque the screws sinking the wood down on the back half of bar.  It was the last counter they installed and I only saw him measure the center for level.  I question if the bar is even sitting on the wood support itself (it appears to be resting on the backsplash) and I can put my finger between the granite and wood.  Is this acceptable work?  I just don’t believe I should see wood like that…something more professional needed to be done.  Please tell me what you think.</div>


	<br />
	<div style="padding:6px">

	

	
		<fieldset class="fieldset">
			<legend>Attached Images</legend>
			<div style="padding:3px">
			<img class="attach" src="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/attachments/f45/5076d1368744553-granite-installed-possible-issue-img_1216-small2.jpg" border="0" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" alt="" /><br><br><img class="attach" src="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/attachments/f45/5077d1368744553-granite-installed-possible-issue-img_1218-small2.jpg" border="0" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" alt="" /><br><br>
			</div>
		</fieldset>
	

	

	

	</div>
]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/">General Home Improvement Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>granite516</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/granite-installed-possible-issue-15985/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Lawnmower Question</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/lawnmower-question-15984/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 16 May 2013 20:24:10 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[My lawnmower was inherited with the house, I don't know too much about it other than it does start.  
 
The problem I have is that when it starts it seems to spudder, if i try to cut the grass it stalls when it hits the low end of the spudder. I'm not sure how old it is but would a simple oil...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>My lawnmower was inherited with the house, I don't know too much about it other than it does start. <br />
<br />
The problem I have is that when it starts it seems to spudder, if i try to cut the grass it stalls when it hits the low end of the spudder. I'm not sure how old it is but would a simple oil change, spark plug be worth a try?<br />
<br />
I can try to take a video of the spuddering if it will help. thanks</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/">General Home Improvement Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>drewdin</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/lawnmower-question-15984/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>How do I fill in a Koi Pond?</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f103/how-do-i-fill-koi-pond-15983/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 16 May 2013 18:53:01 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[This Koi pond sans Koi is now home to way too many frogs, lizards, snakes, etc and is just too high maintenance. It's solid rock with a water feature inbedded in concrete and has a black lining to hold the water in the pond.  
 
The pumps don't work; previous owner says he went through about 4-5...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>This Koi pond sans Koi is now home to way too many frogs, lizards, snakes, etc and is just too high maintenance. It's solid rock with a water feature inbedded in concrete and has a black lining to hold the water in the pond. <br />
<br />
The pumps don't work; previous owner says he went through about 4-5 pumps so it's basically just sitting water and with rainy/hurricane season knocking on the door, I'd rather not deal with it as a pond.    <br />
<br />
How would you go about filling this pond in and making some kind of a dry pond, pond-less waterfall or a planter, while keeping the bridge and moving the plant life from around it to perhaps...in it? <br />
<br />
Thanks!<br />
<br />
 <img src="http://imageshack.us/a/img94/4115/koipond.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f103/">Garden and Lawncare</category>
			<dc:creator>o2284200</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f103/how-do-i-fill-koi-pond-15983/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>AC Compressor Check</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/ac-compressor-check-15981/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 16 May 2013 15:01:04 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>How can I tell if the compressor on my outside AC unit is on and working properly, after I turn the unit on? 
  
Thanks, 
J Grabowski</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>How can I tell if the compressor on my outside AC unit is on and working properly, after I turn the unit on?<br />
 <br />
Thanks,<br />
J Grabowski</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/">HVAC</category>
			<dc:creator>Galaga1</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/ac-compressor-check-15981/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Carrier AC Outside Fan Will Not Turn ON</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/carrier-ac-outside-fan-will-not-turn-15980/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 15 May 2013 20:42:29 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Any help is appreciated.  The motor fan to my outside AC unit will not turn on.  I had the capacitor checked, and it is OK.  What is my next step.  Is the motor fan bad? 
  
Thanks, 
  
J Grabowski</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Any help is appreciated.  The motor fan to my outside AC unit will not turn on.  I had the capacitor checked, and it is OK.  What is my next step.  Is the motor fan bad?<br />
 <br />
Thanks,<br />
 <br />
J Grabowski</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/">HVAC</category>
			<dc:creator>Galaga1</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/carrier-ac-outside-fan-will-not-turn-15980/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Pavers in an enclosed patio</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f135/pavers-enclosed-patio-15979/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 15 May 2013 20:39:12 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have an enclosed patio with a horrible concrete job that is also the footing for the exterior walls.  Could i demo it out and put pavers?  I think i would cut along the footing and keep it then put paver sand and pavers to make the new floor.  There is electrical conduit that i will need to keep...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have an enclosed patio with a horrible concrete job that is also the footing for the exterior walls.  Could i demo it out and put pavers?  I think i would cut along the footing and keep it then put paver sand and pavers to make the new floor.  There is electrical conduit that i will need to keep under the floor for the hot tub.  That is why i want pavers in case i need to access it later.  Does this sound do able?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f135/"><![CDATA[Decks & Patios]]></category>
			<dc:creator>jujubee</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f135/pavers-enclosed-patio-15979/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>sheetrock and plaster question</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f109/sheetrock-plaster-question-15978/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 15 May 2013 18:54:17 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have some guys Sheetrocking my house right now, i noticed in one section they didn't end the  8' board on a stud, it was about 9" past a stud. They put a 3"x4" piece of strapping behind it and seemed it to the next piece. 
 
Just a broad question, is there ever a time where you would extend the...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have some guys Sheetrocking my house right now, i noticed in one section they didn't end the  8' board on a stud, it was about 9&quot; past a stud. They put a 3&quot;x4&quot; piece of strapping behind it and seemed it to the next piece.<br />
<br />
Just a broad question, is there ever a time where you would extend the end of the sheetrock and connect it to the next piece as listed above? I'm trying to see if i am flipping out for a good reason. Thanks<br />
<br />
Ill take some pics tonight and post them</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f109/">Walls and Ceilings</category>
			<dc:creator>drewdin</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f109/sheetrock-plaster-question-15978/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Flashing problem?</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f34/flashing-problem-15977/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 14 May 2013 13:38:45 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi All,   My roofing guy a few years ago placed the asphalt roofing over the flashing.  I beleive its supposed to go under the flashing, no?  I have a leak, there is a 1/4 step down between the siding and shingle, I have been smearing Henrys roof sealer in/on it, but it doesn't last very long,...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi All,   My roofing guy a few years ago placed the asphalt roofing over the flashing.  I beleive its supposed to go under the flashing, no?  I have a leak, there is a 1/4 step down between the siding and shingle, I have been smearing Henrys roof sealer in/on it, but it doesn't last very long, there is gonna come a day I can't get up on the roof.  Is there a better fix for this?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f34/">Roofing and Siding</category>
			<dc:creator>pstew96</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f34/flashing-problem-15977/</guid>
		</item>
	</channel>
</rss>
