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		<title><![CDATA[DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum]]></title>
		<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com</link>
		<description>DIY discussion community forum for every aspect of Do It Yourself home and house repair, remodel, renovation, improvement and deco.</description>
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:36:19 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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		<ttl>60</ttl>
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			<title><![CDATA[DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum]]></title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com</link>
		</image>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Repair/Remove  one damaged Aluminum soffit panel 64' long eave.]]></title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f25/repair-remove-one-damaged-aluminum-soffit-panel-64-long-eave-8018/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:52:01 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[64 ft long eave is aluminum soffitted with 12" wide by 2' long panels.  Naturally the one needing replacement is some where in the center of this long run.  Can it be successfully removed/replaced with a new panel without removing all the preceding panels back to either end? 
 
It seems I can snip...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>64 ft long eave is aluminum soffitted with 12&quot; wide by 2' long panels.  Naturally the one needing replacement is some where in the center of this long run.  Can it be successfully removed/replaced with a new panel without removing all the preceding panels back to either end?<br />
<br />
It seems I can snip out the panel by cutting a 4&quot; wide x 12&quot; long strip, removing that strip and then slip the remaining soffit panel out of the F channel.  The portion of the panel that's nailed to the bottom of the fascia ledger board can? be un-nailed at its single corner support.  The Aluminum fascia trim will probably need to be loosened in order to gain access to the nail.<br />
<br />
Question?  Will I be able to slightly bow the new replacement panel to slip into the F channel and also engage the panel to panel slip-ins and corner nail at fascia.?  Any encouragement would be appreciated.<br />
<br />
Thank you.<br />
<br />
WallyPop</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f25/">HouseRepairTalk Website Help</category>
			<dc:creator>WallyPop</dc:creator>
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		<item>
			<title>hello</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f39/hello-8017/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 06:53:17 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello Friends 
 
I m new in this forum. 
 
thanks</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello Friends<br />
<br />
I m new in this forum.<br />
<br />
thanks</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f39/">Introductions</category>
			<dc:creator>jyoti</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f39/hello-8017/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Sink doesn't fit?]]></title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/sink-doesnt-fit-8016/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 01:25:01 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I cut the hole in my counter top, and I placed the sink in the hole, and it sits high on the one side.  I looked for something that is holding it up, and found nothing.  Heck the part that is 'up' isn't even against the counter top.  I'd guess that I have about 1/4 inch gap between the bottom of...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I cut the hole in my counter top, and I placed the sink in the hole, and it sits high on the one side.  I looked for something that is holding it up, and found nothing.  Heck the part that is 'up' isn't even against the counter top.  I'd guess that I have about 1/4 inch gap between the bottom of the rim, and the counter top.  The counter top is a 4ft piece, I checked it with a level to see if it's true, and it is.  The sink is porcelin.  Anybody else encounter anything like this?  Is it possible that the sink is not true?  Is it going to be ok if I use a LOT of caulk under it, or should I just get another one?  I did cut the sink template on the line, granted it may not be perfectly round, I may have strayed a little, but I am on the outside of the line all the way around.  There is no way to fasten it underneath, this is top mount with silcone only.  So what do I do?<br />
<br />
Rodney</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/">General Home Improvement Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>Rodney R</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/sink-doesnt-fit-8016/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Help!!!</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/help-8014/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 21:53:27 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>have a 1000 sq ft slab house i bought cheap to fix up and rent or sell have it gutted no interior walls right now. need to decide which way to go with the heating system, dont really need air conditioning as we can see Lake Superior from the house and that keeps us cool in the summer, but it gets...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>have a 1000 sq ft slab house i bought cheap to fix up and rent or sell have it gutted no interior walls right now. need to decide which way to go with the heating system, dont really need air conditioning as we can see Lake Superior from the house and that keeps us cool in the summer, but it gets very cold here in the winter. am thinking about some kind of radiant ceramic electric heating, our average cost per KW right now is 6 to 7 cents, most people here go with naturaul gas, but i think for this house it may be better to go with something simpiler and hopefully less expensive, so long story short, i need some help and feedback on this.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/">HVAC</category>
			<dc:creator>toddj1</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/help-8014/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Hey Canadian Friends</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f55/hey-canadian-friends-8013/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 21:12:40 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Well the US Thanksgiving is coming up, just wondering if you have any questions about our customs that you have been dieing to, but afraid, to ask. 
 
Let me start-deep fried turkeys are DELICIOUS. 
 
                 -yes, collar greens are served on turkey day. 
 
                 -deer hunting...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Well the US Thanksgiving is coming up, just wondering if you have any questions about our customs that you have been dieing to, but afraid, to ask.<br />
<br />
Let me start-deep fried turkeys are DELICIOUS.<br />
<br />
                 -yes, collar greens are served on turkey day.<br />
<br />
                 -deer hunting before dinner is a tradition.<br />
<br />
                 -i don't know why inspector wears that funny hat.<br />
<br />
                 -we can't 4-wheel on the moon so we practice the day after  <br />
                  thanksgiving when all the city folk are at the malls.<br />
<br />
                 -did I mention deep fried turkeys are DELICIOUS</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f55/">General Chit-Chat</category>
			<dc:creator>oldog/newtrick</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f55/hey-canadian-friends-8013/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Having trouble with my Lennox G12Q3E-82-12 Furnace</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/having-trouble-my-lennox-g12q3e-82-12-furnace-8012/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 20:11:12 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi there-I just recently tried to turn on the heat in my house and the only thing that happened was cool air coming out of the returns.  Upon inspection, the pilot light does not seem to be lit.  It clearly states on the outside of the unit to NOT manually light the pilot as it is electric...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi there-I just recently tried to turn on the heat in my house and the only thing that happened was cool air coming out of the returns.  Upon inspection, the pilot light does not seem to be lit.  It clearly states on the outside of the unit to NOT manually light the pilot as it is electric ignition??  I did what the directions said, cut the power, turned down the thermostat, turned off gas and waited and then turned everything back on.  There is no &quot;clicking&quot; noise to even indicate that the pilot is trying to light itself.  Any and all help/suggestions would be appreciated.  Thanks.<br />
<br />
Jen</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/">HVAC</category>
			<dc:creator>jencath</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/having-trouble-my-lennox-g12q3e-82-12-furnace-8012/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Buy a New Tub or Acrylic Liner???</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/buy-new-tub-acrylic-liner-8011/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 15:16:20 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi guys, 
I am redoing my bathroom. I have to put in new floor tiles, new vanity, and probably paint and retile the walls. The problem is, I have a yellow bathtub with yellow tile on the shower walls. I want to make it white. Since I'm already redoing the floor, should I just take out the old tub...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi guys,<br />
I am redoing my bathroom. I have to put in new floor tiles, new vanity, and probably paint and retile the walls. The problem is, I have a yellow bathtub with yellow tile on the shower walls. I want to make it white. Since I'm already redoing the floor, should I just take out the old tub and buy a brand new one for like $300? Or should I save the hassle and get an acrylic tub liner?? I think those will cost almost $1000 though. What do you guys think? Is it worth it to get the liner, or is it too hard to install a brand new tub?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/">General Home Improvement Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>DeuceBaseman</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/buy-new-tub-acrylic-liner-8011/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Oak</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f109/oak-8010/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 14:02:42 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Just recently bought a house to fix up and live in for a while and there is a cathedral ceiling in the main living room. It is oak tounge and groove bead board looking material. Now I am not a fan of this at all and I was wondering what some of my options were as far as refinishing to make it look...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Just recently bought a house to fix up and live in for a while and there is a cathedral ceiling in the main living room. It is oak tounge and groove bead board looking material. Now I am not a fan of this at all and I was wondering what some of my options were as far as refinishing to make it look different. I know tat painting it would look okay but I don't like the look of painted oak because of the grain. I was wondering if there are any options out there that i'm not thinking of. PLEASE HELP!!! Considering all options</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f109/">Walls and Ceilings</category>
			<dc:creator>wells1bj</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f109/oak-8010/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Help</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f107/help-8009/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 13:59:14 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I noticed that nobody wanted to respond to my last thread so I am going to try it again. I have an oak bead board tounge and groove cathedral ceiling in my living room that I dont like at all. I am afraid that painting it will leave the grainy look of the oak still in there. I am considering...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I noticed that nobody wanted to respond to my last thread so I am going to try it again. I have an oak bead board tounge and groove cathedral ceiling in my living room that I dont like at all. I am afraid that painting it will leave the grainy look of the oak still in there. I am considering drywalling over it but was looking for help on any other ideas. Accepting all and any ideas on what to do with this ceiling.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f107/">Painting</category>
			<dc:creator>wells1bj</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f107/help-8009/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>help</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f39/help-8008/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 13:37:04 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>have a 1000 sq ft slab house i bought cheap to fix up and rent or sell have it gutted no interior walls right now. need to decide which way to go with the heating system, dont really need air conditioning as we can see Lake Superior from the house and that keeps us cool in the summer, but it gets...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>have a 1000 sq ft slab house i bought cheap to fix up and rent or sell have it gutted no interior walls right now. need to decide which way to go with the heating system, dont really need air conditioning as we can see Lake Superior from the house and that keeps us cool in the summer, but it gets very cold here in the winter. am thinking about some kind of radiant ceramic electric heating, our average cost per KW right now is 6 to 7 cents, most people here go with naturaul gas, but i think for this house it may be better to go with something simpiler  and hopefully less expensive, so long story short, i need some help and feedback on this.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f39/">Introductions</category>
			<dc:creator>toddj1</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f39/help-8008/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>OAK Flooring</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f13/oak-flooring-8007/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 08:50:34 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[70's ranch style house. Converting one of the back bedrooms to a master bathroom. Subfloor is 1x8 on diagonal. 3/4" x 2 1/4" oak is the finish floor. Is it okay in this situation to durock over the existing oak finish floor, or should we remove the oak, glue and screw 1/2" ply over the existing 1x8...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>70's ranch style house. Converting one of the back bedrooms to a master bathroom. Subfloor is 1x8 on diagonal. 3/4&quot; x 2 1/4&quot; oak is the finish floor. Is it okay in this situation to durock over the existing oak finish floor, or should we remove the oak, glue and screw 1/2&quot; ply over the existing 1x8 and install the durock over that. Why or why not?<br />
<br />
Regards,</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f13/">Flooring</category>
			<dc:creator>Superpack</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f13/oak-flooring-8007/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Shares the Home Improvement Ideas.</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/shares-home-improvement-ideas-8006/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 08:39:28 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I love the all types of home improvements. Anyone here shares the Home Improvement Ideas. Thanks 
 
Regards,</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I love the all types of home improvements. Anyone here shares the Home Improvement Ideas. Thanks<br />
<br />
Regards,</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/">General Home Improvement Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>Superpack</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/shares-home-improvement-ideas-8006/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>tile sub floor</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f13/tile-sub-floor-8005/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 03:16:00 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello,  
I am preparing to remove carpeting and install tile (Porcelain?). My current sub floor is 3/4" (Plywood)). I have read many different publications and received many different recommendations. 
 
I will avoid OSB. Do I even need to add additional plywood? I have been advised by some folks...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello, <br />
I am preparing to remove carpeting and install tile (Porcelain?). My current sub floor is 3/4&quot; (Plywood)). I have read many different publications and received many different recommendations.<br />
<br />
I will avoid OSB. Do I even need to add additional plywood? I have been advised by some folks to have a minimum of 1&quot;, others say 3/4&quot; is fine. I'm considering another 1/2&quot;, for a 1.25&quot; total. If I do add plywood, what adhesive is best, in addition to screws?<br />
<br />
Thanks in advance,</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f13/">Flooring</category>
			<dc:creator>shopvac</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f13/tile-sub-floor-8005/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Faulty Valve Controller</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/faulty-valve-controller-8004/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 21:40:30 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello, 
 
I seem to be having a problem with my gas furnace, and I am just debating wether or not this is something I can do, or if I should call a professional. 
I do have an inclination for electrical, plumbing, and other house repairs so I am comfortable with doing repairs.  
The problem I am...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello,<br />
<br />
I seem to be having a problem with my gas furnace, and I am just debating wether or not this is something I can do, or if I should call a professional.<br />
I do have an inclination for electrical, plumbing, and other house repairs so I am comfortable with doing repairs. <br />
The problem I am having is, my digital thermostat says that the heat is on, but when I check the unit in my basement, itdoesn't fire up. The pilot is running just fine, but no gas going to the rest of the unit. So, from process of elimination, I took the cover off the gas regulator (Im not sure what it is actually called) and used a slot screwdriver to switch it to on, and it fires up no problem. <br />
When I try to use the thermostat to turn it off (after I manually turned it on) it doesn't work either.<br />
So, I am thinking that it is probably the valve controller.<br />
I am going to try just replacing the digital thermostat, but in the meantime, is there any advise or ideas out there that someone can suggest?<br />
It is a honetwell control unit, and a very old furnace. I would put the model numbers up, but I am at work currently, and will post them when I can if they are needed.<br />
<br />
Thanks</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/">HVAC</category>
			<dc:creator>seamaj</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/faulty-valve-controller-8004/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Replacing a Foundation (in a house with additions)</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f32/replacing-foundation-house-additions-8001/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 03:22:31 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[While looking for a new home, I managed to locate an amazing victorian home (my favorite) that, under other circumstances, would be waaaay out of my price range.  The house is very old, built in the late 1800's, I believe.  All new vinyl exterior, new roof, new insulation, all original woodwork...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>While looking for a new home, I managed to locate an amazing victorian home (my favorite) that, under other circumstances, would be waaaay out of my price range.  The house is very old, built in the late 1800's, I believe.  All new vinyl exterior, new roof, new insulation, all original woodwork intact and in excellent condition (and refinished), new paint job, looks like all the rooms have been updated, including windows.  Roughly 2350 square feet on two levels, with a possiblity of turning the attic into a partial third floor (if I can get the attic door un-nailed without taking a chunk out of it, since it looks like one of the original victorian doors.  All this might be in vain...<br />
<br />
The foundation is still brick, which of course leaks easily.  So there seems to be some black mold growing on the bricks.  A lot of it, actually.  Luckily, not the kind that kills my sinuses.  My realtor pointed out that the brick was crumbling.  (I didn't get a good look at it myself, actualy.)  The floor is new cement, I believe.  Since the house is a repo, the cost is super low, with the possibility of going even lower, and considering I qualify for a mortgage almost twice the asking price of the house, I could more than likely afford a typical foundation replacement.<br />
<br />
So what's the problem?  There are new additions to the house...  Additions which are level with the ground instead of with the rest of the house - kind of a split-level thing.  So I'm wondering... how could they possibly jack up the house without destroying it?  Is there another (reliable) way to replace the foundation?  Or is buying this house a really bad idea?  (Bear in mind it's located in central Illinois, which has fairly low housing costs.)<br />
<br />
Thanks in advance.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f32/">Framing and Foundation</category>
			<dc:creator>Mr. Victorian</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f32/replacing-foundation-house-additions-8001/</guid>
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