<![CDATA[DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum]]> http://www.houserepairtalk.com/ DIY discussion community forum for every aspect of Do It Yourself home and house repair, remodel, renovation, improvement and deco. en Tue, 21 May 2013 17:03:58 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.houserepairtalk.com/images/misc/rss.jpg <![CDATA[DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum]]> http://www.houserepairtalk.com/ backyard improvements http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/backyard-improvements-16006/ Tue, 21 May 2013 15:40:46 GMT Hi all
I got an email from one of the hosts of this site asking what I've been up to. Well here it is!!!
I started with the original shot of the house I took in 2006.
I'm a craigslist free junkie. Most of the material used to build this is from a barn tear-down or several deck tear outs. The stainless cabinets came from a farm sale. I have sewer, hot and cold water, electrical and cable run out to grill house. The garden beds I finished (almost) this wkend.
No contractor was used in this build out. I've done everything myself with a few helpouts from friends.

My apologies for the awing over french doors.
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]]> General Home Improvement Discussion erndog http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/backyard-improvements-16006/ Small cabin help..? http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f32/small-cabin-help-16005/ Tue, 21 May 2013 08:39:27 GMT I purchased some land a few years back, which had a very small cabin built in the middle of the woods on the back corner of the property. When I began, I had absolutely NO construction or carpentry experience at all, so please keep that in mind and be gentle! :rolleyes: Believe me, had I known... I purchased some land a few years back, which had a very small cabin built in the middle of the woods on the back corner of the property. When I began, I had absolutely NO construction or carpentry experience at all, so please keep that in mind and be gentle! :rolleyes: Believe me, had I known how messed up this arraignment was, I would have tore it down and began anew; alas, that time has passed, and now I am trying to go back and right some of the mistakes in my endeavor to increase the strength and longevity of this place. :help:

Let me try to explain what I'm working with here and perhaps that will help to clarify.

The cabin started [by the previous owner] as 6, 6x6 treated posts, sunk into the ground, on 8' centers. 6x6x16 beams laid across the posts and 7'-4" treated 2x6 joists were spanned at 16" o/c between the 6x6x16 beams and hung with joist hangers. The outer spans between the beam ends were spanned with a 2x12 [running parallel with the 2x6 joists, I guess you could call them header boards?] The rest is pretty standard, 2x4 walls, etc. The original footprint was 16x8.

Eventually, two more identical spans were added by me, when I decided to enlarge the cabin with the 6x6 posts [I sunk them to 48", the depth that the previous owner stated he had sunk the original six posts] and beams with the 2x6 joists running in between, again the 2x6 floor joists are 7'4" between the 6x6x16 cross beams, hung with joist hangers. Total size is now 24'x16'. Basically, I copied the engineering [if you want to call it that] of the previous owner and tripled the cabin's size, if that makes any sense? Subfloor consists of two sheets of 3/4" plywood.

The cabin is built on a slight slope, downhill at an angle from one corner to the opposite corner. The low corner has the bottom of the joists approximately 16-18" off the ground, the high corner is about 36". Everything under the subfloor is treated and the posts are soaked each spring with a petroleum/tar solution, to inhibit termites and carpenter ants from coming up through the treated posts. The joists, beams, posts, and ground beneath are bone dry, no water runs underneath, even during a downpour. I can get under the cabin to work, but it's tight; digging under the cabin is impossible.

Last year, I finished the inside of the cabin and installed an elevated 3x5 hearth, covered in 2" flagstone with a 300lb woodstove. This spring, I was doing some checking on the subfloor, as I was preparing to cover it with Ditra or Hardi for my ceramic tile. I noticed some slight bowing in the floor towards the 4 joists that the hearth/stove was resting on. The rest of the cabin floor is dead level, doesn't give, doesn't squeak. The floor resting on these joists I mentioned, when using a level, dip down to a low point about 3/16". I am going to presume that the stove/hearth is ALOT of weight on those 2x6 floor joists despite the short span.

From what I have read, especially in older homes, undersize floor joists are common, and no one notices until they place a large load upon the joists or are looking to install tile, as in my situation. I have been checking this site, as well as others, for solutions. The problem is, no two members of any forum can agree on ANY solution.

Basically, I have seen quite a few recurring opinions, and the ensuing argument both for and against each. Making it worse are always 'engineers' who argue and throw out calculations, both for and against, and no one ever seems to come up with a solid answer. In my case, I have seen many recommend cutting the span in half with a perpendicular beam on foundation piers. It is totally impractical, if not impossible in my case due to the nature of the crawlspace.

I have narrowed my options down to a few that I am aware of...

Sistering with 2x6s.

Sistering with joists larger than 2x6s [but then I run into what to do with the extra depth unsupported at each end where it would connect with the 6x6x16 crossbeams.

Sandwiching the joists with Plywood/OSB.

Blocking.

Some have suggested making an upside down 'T' using 2x4s or 2x6s laid parallel to the existing joists, glued and screwed.

Can anyone give me some direction here? ]]> Framing and Foundation j23 http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f32/small-cabin-help-16005/ Completed Sanding, two questions before applying urethane finish. http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f13/completed-sanding-two-questions-before-applying-urethane-finish-16004/ Tue, 21 May 2013 00:18:43 GMT Hello.

After two days of hardwork, I completed sanding the hardwood floor with the a rented U-Sand. Going to apply the Minwax water based oil modified finish. Not going to stain. However, before I begin I have two questions which I'm still not very sure about.

1. There are some small spots (dents, low areas, edges, corners, etc) where the old Oil polyurethane is still there. I can remove those with my detailed sander and hand held random orbit sander. But there are a lot of those spots, it is time consuming work and I might miss a few. I know it wouldn't look as good, but would there be any issues if the new urethane is applied on top of them?

2. Originally I was going to use tack cloth to wipe clean all the dust once I sweeped and vacuumed, but then I found out tack cloth might leave wax residue behind that will screw up the Urethane. Likewise, Mineral spirit can apparently stained the raw hardwood (and I'm not sure how it will react with the old left over urethane spots). What options do I have to get the last bit of dust out? Would buying bunch of microfiber cloth and wiping the floor with them work?

Thanks. ]]> Flooring Dimeron http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f13/completed-sanding-two-questions-before-applying-urethane-finish-16004/ Possible mold problems?? http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f10/possible-mold-problems-16003/ Mon, 20 May 2013 18:50:39 GMT Hello, I am currently repainting my bedroom, and I was surprised to see the Zinsser Bin peeling off from the lower corner of the window frame. I applied a second coat but same thing. Grey-ish spots also appeared thru. I then decided to investigate further and touching the corner it felt... Hello,

I am currently repainting my bedroom, and I was surprised to see the Zinsser Bin peeling off from the lower corner of the window frame. I applied a second coat but same thing. Grey-ish spots also appeared thru.

I then decided to investigate further and touching the corner it felt humid. I decided to drill a small hole but past the first 32nd of an inch, it was much softer, not quite like mush but softer than the surrounding wood.

Not long after I decided to open the corner (not sure if this was a good idea) and the wood I puled from the hole was wet!

There is water infiltration somewhere but where??

My uncle just went through a nightmare with mold growth in his basement, and as a result, he had half of the house stripped down and rebuilt. He had $70k of damage.

Im extremely concerned and I know nothing about the way windows are built and installed. Can the whole wall be in need of stripping down????

Anynbody with opinions are more than welcome to share... Im very anxious to see what people here think...
Thanks!

EDIT: please note that I tore apart the wood, thats why you see chips and chunks laying around like that.
:(
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]]> Windows and Doors condoowner http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f10/possible-mold-problems-16003/ Installing new garbage disposal http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/installing-new-garbage-disposal-16002/ Mon, 20 May 2013 18:33:50 GMT Old garbage disposal is hard wired, I can see where the wiring comes in for the wall on/off switch, and the power wire. New is a three pronged. So what is my best option? Because I have read that it should be plugged into an outlet. Here is a pic. The biggest problem is it isn't the only thing they have running to the wires, dishwasher and stove also run into same wiring. I could install a new outlet coming from the power wire. But I would have to install prongs on all other device wires. Then what do I do about the wall switch for garbage disposal??
]]> Electrical and Wiring JennyG http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/installing-new-garbage-disposal-16002/ Need opinions on what to do here... (Pics Included) http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/need-opinions-what-do-here-pics-included-16001/ Mon, 20 May 2013 17:12:33 GMT We have a gas fireplace (red) on one side of our family room and a wood fireplace (black) on the other corner of the room. In preparation of selling the house we need opinions on if we should leave them both be or take one of them out (likely the wood fireplace). If you were a buyer and walked... We have a gas fireplace (red) on one side of our family room and a wood fireplace (black) on the other corner of the room. In preparation of selling the house we need opinions on if we should leave them both be or take one of them out (likely the wood fireplace).

If you were a buyer and walked into this room what would you want to see regarding this matter? Apologize for Iphone picture quality.




Thanks and looking forward to hearing your opinions! ]]> General Home Improvement Discussion hob http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/need-opinions-what-do-here-pics-included-16001/ Musky smelling rugs http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f114/musky-smelling-rugs-16000/ Mon, 20 May 2013 13:06:53 GMT Used a carpet cleaner on them. Now, 48 hours later, they smell AWFUL. I mean terrible. I also used the same carpet cleaner on my rooms with carpet and those turned out fine. How can I eliminate that awful odor from the rugs? Used a carpet cleaner on them. Now, 48 hours later, they smell AWFUL. I mean terrible. I also used the same carpet cleaner on my rooms with carpet and those turned out fine.
How can I eliminate that awful odor from the rugs? ]]> Cleaning cb104 http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f114/musky-smelling-rugs-16000/ Kitchen Faucet http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f33/kitchen-faucet-15999/ Mon, 20 May 2013 12:20:34 GMT My kitchen faucet seems to lack pressure. Every time you turn it on it makes a knocking noise like there's air in the pipes. Sometimes it won't even turn on for a bit and has trouble switching back from the spray nozzle. It is an old faucet but didn't always do this. Do I need to replace the faucet or is something else causing this? ]]> Plumbing Forum jhav http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f33/kitchen-faucet-15999/ No Water Running Into or Out of Toilet http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f33/no-water-running-into-out-toilet-15997/ Sun, 19 May 2013 23:41:45 GMT I don't know if the problems I have are connected, or if I have 2 separate ones. My toilet will not flush completely. I have tried filling it with a bucket, but while it does flush it seems like it is clogged somewhere. It does not drain completely, and no water flows back in. I bought a fill valve replacement kit today. I haven't used it yet because when I turned the water knob on to get water to flow in so it might finish flushing nothing happened. It turns in circles like it is stripped. No water at all. The water in the tub and sink both work fine. I can't afford to hire a plumber right now (Old fridge burned out earlier in the month so had to buy a new one. I am cursed.). I put Drano crystals in the toilet when I thought it was just backed up, but no water and no luck. Now no water runs in or runs out. What can I do to fix this? I am pretty handy. Thanks for any assistance. Jane:( ]]> Plumbing Forum jehndrsn http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f33/no-water-running-into-out-toilet-15997/ a/c defrost cycle http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/c-defrost-cycle-15998/ Sun, 19 May 2013 23:36:31 GMT I have a problem, when I disconnect the black wire to the defrost board. the fan does not come on. I think the unit is still stuck in defrost or I have a bad defrost board. It is a Goodman HP unit. Contactor is not engaged only fan rotates at about 1/3 the normal speed, even with the thermostat off. I have a problem, when I disconnect the black wire to the defrost board. the fan does not come on. I think the unit is still stuck in defrost or I have a bad defrost board. It is a Goodman HP unit. Contactor is not engaged only fan rotates at about 1/3 the normal speed, even with the thermostat off. ]]> HVAC hparkinson http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/c-defrost-cycle-15998/ genie isd 990 excelerator will not stay on http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f10/genie-isd-990-excelerator-will-not-stay-15996/ Sun, 19 May 2013 22:54:04 GMT I have a genie excelerator opener that you push the button, it starts to open/close the door, it moves about a foot and then the opener shuts off and the light starts blinking. I then have to unplug the opener and plug it back in to get any sort of response from it, but it then does the same thing... I have a genie excelerator opener that you push the button, it starts to open/close the door, it moves about a foot and then the opener shuts off and the light starts blinking. I then have to unplug the opener and plug it back in to get any sort of response from it, but it then does the same thing still. I can open the door manually just fine, I have cleaned the eyes and replaced the carriage, any ideas? ]]> Windows and Doors bluekiwi http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f10/genie-isd-990-excelerator-will-not-stay-15996/ Need some advice http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/need-some-advice-15995/ Sun, 19 May 2013 22:04:02 GMT I was wondering if this has happen to anyone before. I have 2 outlets that are on the same wall one has a power supply that has my pc and things pluged into it the other one has nothing pluged into it and this is why if I plug something into the top plug then it will kill the other one with my pc ... I was wondering if this has happen to anyone before. I have 2 outlets that are on the same wall one has a power supply that has my pc and things pluged into it the other one has nothing pluged into it and this is why if I plug something into the top plug then it will kill the other one with my pc on it. Now my other question is I have is the the outlet that my pc is pluged into there are times when it will turn off my pc with no power like if it was dead I used that volt tester that will light up if there is power and I power in the outlet power strip I even show power around the pc I replaced powerstrip but still will do it and it omly like 1 time maybe once a month ]]> Electrical and Wiring BIGBOY96 http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/need-some-advice-15995/ drylocking basement and removing mold on concrete http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/drylocking-basement-removing-mold-concrete-15994/ Sun, 19 May 2013 21:11:01 GMT So my wife and I want to sell our home but before we put in on the market our basement needs some work. We have had some moisture problems mainly because the windows need to be replaced. How do I go about removing the stains and or black mold? Is it black mold? I have had about 12 people... So my wife and I want to sell our home but before we put in on the market our basement needs some work. We have had some moisture problems mainly because the windows need to be replaced.

How do I go about removing the stains and or black mold? Is it black mold?

I have had about 12 people coming and give me estimates and all 12 people have given me different recommendations. Some recommended sealing before dry locking, otherwise in 4 days the basement would look the same.










Is it as simple as scrubbing and painting because their estimates have ranged from 400-$1300.

Looking for any help!

Thank you! ]]> General Home Improvement Discussion airtas http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/drylocking-basement-removing-mold-concrete-15994/ Exhaust Fan In Bathroom http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/exhaust-fan-bathroom-15993/ Sun, 19 May 2013 17:02:41 GMT I need to replace the exhaust fan in my bathroom. I have taken off the cover to expose a plate that is in front of the exhaust fan itself, but cannot figure out how to take this plate off to get to the exhaust fan. The plate is where you replace the light bulbs. Thanks for your help. Jay... I need to replace the exhaust fan in my bathroom. I have taken off the cover to expose a plate that is in front of the exhaust fan itself, but cannot figure out how to take this plate off to get to the exhaust fan. The plate is where you replace the light bulbs. Thanks for your help.

Jay Grabowski ]]> General Home Improvement Discussion Galaga1 http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/exhaust-fan-bathroom-15993/ Hallway header options where door is http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f109/hallway-header-options-where-door-15992/ Sat, 18 May 2013 02:01:47 GMT So there is a door in our hallway, and another opening down further. I looked in the attic and the rafters run parallel to the header in the picture below. The room to the right has nothing on the opposite wall, the room to the left has a wall that lines up with this header. Wife wants this... So there is a door in our hallway, and another opening down further. I looked in the attic and the rafters run parallel to the header in the picture below. The room to the right has nothing on the opposite wall, the room to the left has a wall that lines up with this header. Wife wants this completely gone, which I know I really should hire someone to determine that. Another option would be to get rid of the header and go up to where the 2 x 4s are running across the hall, give the hall more height here, but I would really need to get the side walls flush to the hall, which I can see the studs holding the header probably aren't doing anything as there is a gap on the verticals above the header. But the studs going to the top 2x4's may be carrying load. Wondering if I can put a couple 2x4's under this horizontal ones but in the side walls? Any thoughts, or recommendations. You can see the other one down the hall further, nothing in line with it on either side.

]]> Walls and Ceilings infidex http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f109/hallway-header-options-where-door-15992/