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		<title><![CDATA[DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum]]></title>
		<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/</link>
		<description>DIY discussion community forum for every aspect of Do It Yourself home and house repair, remodel, renovation, improvement and deco.</description>
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 04:37:23 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum]]></title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/</link>
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			<title>Excel Workbook</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f116/excel-workbook-16031/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 24 May 2013 19:44:54 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Twenty years of building formulas into workbooks for a whole host of things and now some fool has made the columns ( numbered ) instead of (lettered). 
 I found on the web lots of people saying this is an easy change and then they tell you what to do. I think they type to fast or something, I can't...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Twenty years of building formulas into workbooks for a whole host of things and now some fool has made the columns ( numbered ) instead of (lettered).<br />
 I found on the web lots of people saying this is an easy change and then they tell you what to do. I think they type to fast or something, I can't evan find the buttons to start with. <br />
 <br />
Any one care to walk me thru it, just pretend I know nothing about computers, well actually you don't to pretend.<br />
:mad:</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f116/">Computers and Electronics</category>
			<dc:creator>nealtw</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f116/excel-workbook-16031/</guid>
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			<title>ShortCuts</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f6/shortcuts-16030/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 24 May 2013 13:26:51 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>We explain how our Tool Test ratting system works, there are some tips from Wood magazine and a bit from Lee Valley. Our Book Review will help you with your summer Hardscape projects and our Tool Test sheds some weight from Skil. Take a look! 
 
--  
The very best is the least that I can do 
Graham...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>We explain how our Tool Test ratting system works, there are some tips from Wood magazine and a bit from Lee Valley. Our Book Review will help you with your summer Hardscape projects and our Tool Test sheds some weight from Skil. Take a look!<br />
<br />
-- <br />
The very best is the least that I can do<br />
Graham McCulloch<br />
<a href="http://www.shortcuts.ns.ca/column" target="_blank">http://www.shortcuts.ns.ca/column</a></div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f6/">Carpentry and Woodworking</category>
			<dc:creator>Graham</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f6/shortcuts-16030/</guid>
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			<title>Bad block foundation options</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f17/bad-block-foundation-options-16029/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 24 May 2013 12:12:45 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have 2 story home on an old deteriorating block foundation. It leaks like an open faucet whenn it rains heavy. I understand the process of jacking the house up 6"+ to replace it, and with that face losing my front porch, my deck on the back, and possibly cracking walls and ceilings on first...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have 2 story home on an old deteriorating block foundation. It leaks like an open faucet whenn it rains heavy. I understand the process of jacking the house up 6&quot;+ to replace it, and with that face losing my front porch, my deck on the back, and possibly cracking walls and ceilings on first and/or second floors. My question, is it possible to excavate the entire foundation and fill the blocks on the exterior with concrete and patch it? I know I can have walls poured inside the foundation in the basement to structurally support it, as an alternative. But that wont stop the water from coming in and I will eventually lose my basement that way. Just looking for advice options. Any help is appreciated.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f17/">Bricks, Masonry and Concrete</category>
			<dc:creator>Northeast1973</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f17/bad-block-foundation-options-16029/</guid>
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			<title>deck roof and gutter question</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f135/deck-roof-gutter-question-16028/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 24 May 2013 00:43:01 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>At 2 places water is coming down between the wood and the gutter going across. There is no rain drip and was wondering if I should try to put one on? If so how is the best way to put one on and remove the gutter while on a ladder? thanks</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>At 2 places water is coming down between the wood and the gutter going across. There is no rain drip and was wondering if I should try to put one on? If so how is the best way to put one on and remove the gutter while on a ladder? thanks</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f135/"><![CDATA[Decks & Patios]]></category>
			<dc:creator>dolfan</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f135/deck-roof-gutter-question-16028/</guid>
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			<title>question about water from central a/c</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/question-about-water-central-c-16027/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 24 May 2013 00:02:14 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have central a/c and when take the cover off you see the coils. There is a tray on the front only and has water in it. The coils has water/rust stains going down. Is this normal or something wrong?  thanks</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have central a/c and when take the cover off you see the coils. There is a tray on the front only and has water in it. The coils has water/rust stains going down. Is this normal or something wrong?  thanks</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/">HVAC</category>
			<dc:creator>dolfan</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/question-about-water-central-c-16027/</guid>
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			<title>pressure washer advice</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f37/pressure-washer-advice-16025/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 23 May 2013 20:00:17 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I just bought a small pressure washer, a Ryobi 1700 psi.  Of course the manual advises to use only detergents designed specifically for this purpose, and of course, they are pricey.  I have some "Buckeye" brand "Straight-Up" which is a neutral pH cleaner purchased from a janitorial supply store. ...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I just bought a small pressure washer, a Ryobi 1700 psi.  Of course the manual advises to use only detergents designed specifically for this purpose, and of course, they are pricey.  I have some &quot;Buckeye&quot; brand &quot;Straight-Up&quot; which is a neutral pH cleaner purchased from a janitorial supply store.  It's a concentrated product - dilution of 1 - 3 oz per gallon depending upon light to heavy cleaning.<br />
<br />
Could anyone advise me, first, whether it's okay to use this product, and second, whether (and how much) I need to dilute it before filling the tank on the machine?<br />
<br />
Many thanks for any suggestions!<br />
<br />
Holly</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f37/">Tools</category>
			<dc:creator>bungalowbabe</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f37/pressure-washer-advice-16025/</guid>
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			<title>Toilet will not fill</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f33/toilet-will-not-fill-16023/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 23 May 2013 16:24:35 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm having a very strange problem. The toilet continuously runs, but it won't do the 'pour water till the tank fills up.' There's nothing wrong with the flapper, because when I can get it to run properly, it doesn't leak. I don't know how to get the toilet's tank to fill up. I have no idea what's...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I'm having a very strange problem. The toilet continuously runs, but it won't do the 'pour water till the tank fills up.' There's nothing wrong with the flapper, because when I can get it to run properly, it doesn't leak. I don't know how to get the toilet's tank to fill up. I have no idea what's going on, and I need to get this thing fixed before next week. Thankfully there are other toilets int he house but this is still something I need to fix.<br />
<br />
The toilet is a Kohler, I don't know the model.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f33/">Plumbing Forum</category>
			<dc:creator>uziel</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f33/toilet-will-not-fill-16023/</guid>
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			<title>soffit vent ?</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f34/soffit-vent-16022/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 23 May 2013 15:24:33 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi folks, 
I have an enclosed 10' x 20' patio with a flat, pitched roof. It has a 24" overhang.  Constructed with 3x6s, 16" oc. that is scabbed onto a hip roof. 
I tore out and replaced the soffit boards and was going to replace the soffit vent but realized that the rafters are cross-blocked in at...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi folks,<br />
I have an enclosed 10' x 20' patio with a flat, pitched roof. It has a 24&quot; overhang.  Constructed with 3x6s, 16&quot; oc. that is scabbed onto a hip roof.<br />
I tore out and replaced the soffit boards and was going to replace the soffit vent but realized that the rafters are cross-blocked in at about 26&quot; in from the tail ends.<br />
Obviously this prevents any &quot;venting&quot; of the roof.<br />
I live in SW Florida and I'm wondering if having a vent is even needed on this roof.<br />
Thanks,</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f34/">Roofing and Siding</category>
			<dc:creator>beachguy005</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f34/soffit-vent-16022/</guid>
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			<title>Attaching wood post to concrete slab</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f17/attaching-wood-post-concrete-slab-16021/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 23 May 2013 13:34:01 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'd like to install a trellis / pergola wall like the photo here with 4' x 4' or larger posts attached to concrete.  The concrete appears to be 6" thick and is about 60+ years old.  It's in good condition.  
 
 What do you recommend to attach these wood posts to the cement?  This wall will go up...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I'd like to install a trellis / pergola wall like the photo here with 4' x 4' or larger posts attached to concrete.  The concrete appears to be 6&quot; thick and is about 60+ years old.  It's in good condition. <br />
<br />
 What do you recommend to attach these wood posts to the cement?  This wall will go up between the house and garage about 16' in lengthand also be support for a future pergola extending over this area.<br />
<br />
Thanks for your help, I appreciate it!</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f17/">Bricks, Masonry and Concrete</category>
			<dc:creator>luckywinks</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f17/attaching-wood-post-concrete-slab-16021/</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Lennox A/C isn't cooling]]></title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/lennox-c-isnt-cooling-16010/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 23 May 2013 02:17:10 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi I have a Lennox 10ACC-024-230-01 unit that has the fan running and the thermostat is working but no cool air is coming out. We have 2 units and this is the upstairs unit. Also, water is coming out from underneath the unit outside. The capacitor was replaced in this unit last year. What do you...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi I have a Lennox 10ACC-024-230-01 unit that has the fan running and the thermostat is working but no cool air is coming out. We have 2 units and this is the upstairs unit. Also, water is coming out from underneath the unit outside. The capacitor was replaced in this unit last year. What do you think is wrong?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/">HVAC</category>
			<dc:creator>ask072804</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/lennox-c-isnt-cooling-16010/</guid>
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			<title>Suggestions on how to repair</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/suggestions-how-repair-16009/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 22 May 2013 22:24:49 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[What would be the cheapest way to repair this problem with the garage? As you can tell the driveway is sloping and is not level causing a gap between the garage door and concrete. It's large enough for a small animal to get through. I'm deciding if I want to buy this property, and want to know this...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>What would be the cheapest way to repair this problem with the garage? As you can tell the driveway is sloping and is not level causing a gap between the garage door and concrete. It's large enough for a small animal to get through. I'm deciding if I want to buy this property, and want to know this will not break the bank. Thanks.</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/">General Home Improvement Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>gatewood</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/suggestions-how-repair-16009/</guid>
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			<title>Aggressive Deer</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f112/aggressive-deer-16008/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 22 May 2013 15:46:53 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Any suggestion on dealing with an aggressive deer? Please keep in mind I can't shoot it.  
 
It's attacking my dogs. My little 5lb rat terrier was kicked pretty hard last night. The deer won't run away till I come out there, but of course if it wanted to it could destroy me, so I'm looking for...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Any suggestion on dealing with an aggressive deer? Please keep in mind I can't shoot it. <br />
<br />
It's attacking my dogs. My little 5lb rat terrier was kicked pretty hard last night. The deer won't run away till I come out there, but of course if it wanted to it could destroy me, so I'm looking for options. <br />
<br />
I was thinking the pepper spray they use to stop dogs?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f112/">Pest Control</category>
			<dc:creator>Austin</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f112/aggressive-deer-16008/</guid>
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			<title>Garage door opener just barks at me!</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/garage-door-opener-just-barks-me-16007/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 21 May 2013 18:43:00 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[So I went to open the garage door and when I pressed the button, the light just flashes 5 times and makes a noise like its trying to open the door but never does. 
 
I thought I had the model# but all I have is the make. Its a liftmaster, I tried googling for 5 flashes liftmaster but didn't find...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>So I went to open the garage door and when I pressed the button, the light just flashes 5 times and makes a noise like its trying to open the door but never does.<br />
<br />
I thought I had the model# but all I have is the make. Its a liftmaster, I tried googling for 5 flashes liftmaster but didn't find anything.<br />
<br />
Any Insight? Thanks</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/">Electrical and Wiring</category>
			<dc:creator>drewdin</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/garage-door-opener-just-barks-me-16007/</guid>
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			<title>backyard improvements</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/backyard-improvements-16006/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 21 May 2013 15:40:46 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi all 
  I got an email from one of the hosts of this site asking what I've been up to. Well here it is!!! 
 I started with the original shot of the house I took in 2006. 
  I'm a craigslist free junkie. Most of the material used to build this is from a barn tear-down or several deck tear outs....]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi all<br />
  I got an email from one of the hosts of this site asking what I've been up to. Well here it is!!!<br />
 I started with the original shot of the house I took in 2006.<br />
  I'm a craigslist free junkie. Most of the material used to build this is from a barn tear-down or several deck tear outs. The stainless cabinets came from a farm sale. I have sewer, hot and cold water, electrical and cable run out to grill house. The garden beds I finished (almost) this wkend.<br />
   No contractor was used in this build out. I've done everything myself with a few helpouts from friends.<br />
<br />
My apologies for the awing over french doors.</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/">General Home Improvement Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>erndog</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/backyard-improvements-16006/</guid>
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			<title>Small cabin help..?</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f32/small-cabin-help-16005/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 21 May 2013 08:39:27 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I purchased some land a few years back, which had a very small cabin built in the middle of the woods on the back corner of the property.  When I began, I had absolutely NO construction or carpentry experience at all, so please keep that in mind and be gentle!  :rolleyes:  Believe me, had I known...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I purchased some land a few years back, which had a very small cabin built in the middle of the woods on the back corner of the property.  When I began, I had absolutely NO construction or carpentry experience at all, so please keep that in mind and be gentle!  :rolleyes:  Believe me, had I known how messed up this arraignment was, I would have tore it down and began anew; alas, that time has passed, and now I am trying to go back and right some of the mistakes in my endeavor to increase the strength and longevity of this place.  :help:<br />
<br />
Let me try to explain what I'm working with here and perhaps that will help to clarify.  <br />
<br />
The cabin started [by the previous owner] as 6, 6x6 treated posts, sunk into the ground, on 8'  centers. 6x6x16 beams laid across the posts and 7'-4&quot; treated 2x6  joists were spanned at 16&quot; o/c between the 6x6x16 beams and hung with joist hangers.   The outer spans between the beam ends were spanned with a 2x12 [running parallel with the 2x6 joists, I guess you could call them header boards?]  The rest is  pretty standard, 2x4 walls, etc.  The original footprint was 16x8.<br />
<br />
Eventually,  two more identical  spans were added by me, when I decided to enlarge the cabin with the  6x6 posts [I sunk them to 48&quot;, the depth that the previous owner stated  he had sunk the original six posts] and beams with the 2x6 joists  running in between, again the 2x6 floor joists are 7'4&quot; between the  6x6x16 cross beams, hung with joist hangers.   Total size is now  24'x16'. Basically, I copied the engineering [if you want to call it  that] of the previous owner and tripled the cabin's size, if that makes  any sense?  Subfloor consists of two sheets of 3/4&quot; plywood.<br />
<br />
The  cabin is  built on a slight slope, downhill at an angle from one corner to the  opposite corner.  The low corner has the bottom of the joists  approximately 16-18&quot; off  the ground, the high corner is about 36&quot;.  Everything under the  subfloor is treated and the posts are soaked each spring with a  petroleum/tar solution, to inhibit termites and carpenter ants from  coming up through the treated posts.  The joists, beams, posts, and  ground beneath  are bone dry, no water runs underneath, even during a downpour.  I can  get under the cabin to work, but it's tight; digging under the cabin is impossible.<br />
<br />
Last year, I finished the inside of the cabin and installed an  elevated 3x5 hearth, covered in 2&quot; flagstone with a 300lb woodstove.   This spring, I was doing some checking on the subfloor, as I was preparing to cover it  with Ditra or Hardi for my ceramic tile.  I noticed some slight bowing  in the floor towards the 4 joists that the hearth/stove was resting  on.   The rest of the cabin floor is dead level, doesn't give, doesn't  squeak.  The floor resting on these joists I mentioned, when using a  level, dip down to a low point about 3/16&quot;.  I am going to presume that  the stove/hearth is ALOT of weight on those 2x6 floor joists despite the  short span.<br />
<br />
From what I have read, especially in older homes, undersize floor joists are common, and no one notices until they place a large load upon the joists or are looking to install tile, as in my situation.  I have been checking this site, as well as others, for solutions.  The  problem is, no two members of any forum can agree on ANY solution.  <br />
<br />
Basically, I have seen quite a few recurring opinions, and the ensuing argument both for and against each.  Making it worse are always 'engineers' who argue and throw out calculations, both for and against, and no one ever seems to come up with a solid answer.  In my case, I have seen many recommend cutting the span in half with a perpendicular  beam on foundation piers.  It is totally impractical, if not impossible in my case due to the nature of the crawlspace.  <br />
<br />
I have narrowed my options down to a few that I am aware of...<br />
<br />
Sistering with 2x6s.<br />
<br />
Sistering with joists larger than 2x6s [but then I run into what to do with the extra depth unsupported at each end where it would connect with the 6x6x16 crossbeams. <br />
<br />
Sandwiching the joists with Plywood/OSB.<br />
<br />
Blocking.<br />
<br />
Some have suggested making an upside down 'T' using 2x4s or 2x6s laid parallel to the existing joists, glued and screwed.<br />
<br />
Can anyone give me some direction here?</div>

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