<![CDATA[DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum - Framing and Foundation]]> http://www.houserepairtalk.com en Fri, 20 Nov 2009 23:59:38 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.houserepairtalk.com/images/misc/rss.jpg <![CDATA[DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum - Framing and Foundation]]> http://www.houserepairtalk.com Replacing a Foundation (in a house with additions) http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f32/replacing-foundation-house-additions-8001/ Wed, 18 Nov 2009 03:22:31 GMT While looking for a new home, I managed to locate an amazing victorian home (my favorite) that, under other circumstances, would be waaaay out of my price range. The house is very old, built in the late 1800's, I believe. All new vinyl exterior, new roof, new insulation, all original woodwork intact and in excellent condition (and refinished), new paint job, looks like all the rooms have been updated, including windows. Roughly 2350 square feet on two levels, with a possiblity of turning the attic into a partial third floor (if I can get the attic door un-nailed without taking a chunk out of it, since it looks like one of the original victorian doors. All this might be in vain...

The foundation is still brick, which of course leaks easily. So there seems to be some black mold growing on the bricks. A lot of it, actually. Luckily, not the kind that kills my sinuses. My realtor pointed out that the brick was crumbling. (I didn't get a good look at it myself, actualy.) The floor is new cement, I believe. Since the house is a repo, the cost is super low, with the possibility of going even lower, and considering I qualify for a mortgage almost twice the asking price of the house, I could more than likely afford a typical foundation replacement.

So what's the problem? There are new additions to the house... Additions which are level with the ground instead of with the rest of the house - kind of a split-level thing. So I'm wondering... how could they possibly jack up the house without destroying it? Is there another (reliable) way to replace the foundation? Or is buying this house a really bad idea? (Bear in mind it's located in central Illinois, which has fairly low housing costs.)

Thanks in advance. ]]> Framing and Foundation Mr. Victorian http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f32/replacing-foundation-house-additions-8001/ Ideas for leveling floor support beams http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f32/ideas-leveling-floor-support-beams-8000/ Wed, 18 Nov 2009 02:11:36 GMT I need to level the floor on one end of a single story frame house that is 30’x30’. The space has two beams spanning its length, each made of two 2x10s with 2x4 ledger boards attached. These beams are 48” apart and support the walls of a hallway above and at least some of the weight of the roof... I need to level the floor on one end of a single story frame house that is 30’x30’. The space has two beams spanning its length, each made of two 2x10s with 2x4 ledger boards attached. These beams are 48” apart and support the walls of a hallway above and at least some of the weight of the roof since the roof is not built with trusses. Both of these long beams are sagging due to failure of the metal support columns that are rusting away and due to poor footings under the failing columns. Presently the sagging beams are supported by 3 metal posts each. In addition to these beams sagging, many of the floor joists have cracked near the ledger board so that the floor sags from the outside cinder block walls to the center beams as well as along the beams. I am going to need to lift one beam about 2 inches at its lowest point and the other beam about 1 inch and then raise the joists back into position against the sub-floor.

First question - What would be the estimate of the weight of the structure I described. I had one contracter friend suggest assuming 10001b/ linear foot so about 30,000 lb of weight

Second question – I had originally planned to raise and level the two center beams and support them with new columns and then jack up the floor joists, sister new joists were needed and add joist hangers on all. This will be a huge amount of labor because I will need to custom cut sections of 2x6 filler board to nail between every set of joists above the ledger to have something to attach the joist hangers to. There would be 4 to make between every joist because I have this problem on the outside joists as well as on the 48” joists between the two main beams under the hallway that is above However, someone suggested using sections of 10” channel iron under the beams so that when I raise the channel iron it will catch and raise the sagging joists as it also raises the beams to level. The thought is to place a 4’ section of channel iron above each new support post so that at least that much of the joist raising would be taken care of as well as to distribute the load along the surface of the beam. Does this sound feasible? ]]> Framing and Foundation svoelkel http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f32/ideas-leveling-floor-support-beams-8000/ <![CDATA[Exterior wall's and adding a second floor]]> http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f32/exterior-walls-adding-second-floor-7984/ Mon, 16 Nov 2009 08:58:29 GMT Hi all,

New guy here with a (probably) dumb question.

I have researched the forums for an answer, but I can't seem to find an appropriate answer, so here goes. . .

I have a ranch styled home that I am trying to add some space to. We (me and my lady) really like the location of our home, as well as the property itself. We are contemplating directions to go as far as adding space to our current layout (we have just shy of 1,100 sq ft).

The exterior walls are 2x4 construction, which surprised me, I thought they would have/should have been 2x6. So the questionsWill 2x4 exterior walls support a second floor? Or is this NOT a viable option for us?

We both fully understand there are permits/plans/and other things that will have to take place prior to any construction, at this point we're just trying to figure out our options. We don't have an overly huge lot (about half an acre) so just expanding the footprint of the house isn't a real viable option. Hopefully I've been clear enough.

Thanks in advance for the help, sorry for being so long winded! ]]> Framing and Foundation VTXnME http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f32/exterior-walls-adding-second-floor-7984/ Replacing sill plate and header on pier/beam foundation http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f32/replacing-sill-plate-header-pier-beam-foundation-7938/ Mon, 09 Nov 2009 20:20:38 GMT We purchased our small 1943 cottage-style home six years ago and we have had very few problems until recently. We noticed our wood floor squeaking more than usual so I entered into the crawl space to have a look from below. From the crawl space I noticed there is water damage to the sill plate... We purchased our small 1943 cottage-style home six years ago and we have had very few problems until recently. We noticed our wood floor squeaking more than usual so I entered into the crawl space to have a look from below. From the crawl space I noticed there is water damage to the sill plate (just the length of doorway), header and some of the support beams at every door (3). Any advice and help would be greatly appreciated.
My questions are:

Is it possible to replace only the rotted section of the sill plate?

Would the house need to be jacked-up to replace the sill plate?

Should the damaged portion of the header be replaced or just reinforced with another 2X6?
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]]> Framing and Foundation TexasJason http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f32/replacing-sill-plate-header-pier-beam-foundation-7938/ Sealing Exterior wall to Foundation http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f32/sealing-exterior-wall-foundation-7915/ Fri, 06 Nov 2009 14:02:20 GMT Hello,

This is my first post in this forum and I'm just starting to get involved with house repair. I consider myself pretty handy, but any serious projects I've taken on have been on vehicles.

Anyway, I recently purchased a 2 story condo that has a slab on grade foundation. The unit was built in 82 and never had gutters. Upon inspection of the home, it was discovered that the underlayment under the siding was rotted due to the 2 story fall of water and low foundation(probably +-12" from the bottom of the siding to the ground).

I had the sellers replace the underlayment, apply flashing and install gutters. They used a rubber material that is used for roofing.

I can now reach under and feel that there is solid wood directly under the siding, but in some places, this new wood does not seal to the foundation. In these areas, I can feel behind the new underlayment and touch the top of the foundation:eek: and what appears to be some remaining rotted wood(seems to be another layer of plywood behind what was installed).

So I have 2 questions:
Is is typical to have two layers of exterior plywood under the siding?

More importantly, what can I do to seal these areas?
I was thinking of spraying some expanding foam and then maybe applying some sort of j-channel to the bottom to prevent any further splashing. Although, the gutters should now remove the splashing from the equation.

I wish I could post some images, but saw that I'd need 10 posts before that.

Thanks in advance and please let me know if there is anything I can clear up. ]]> Framing and Foundation 01pewterbird http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f32/sealing-exterior-wall-foundation-7915/ harley richard http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f32/harley-richard-7889/ Mon, 02 Nov 2009 20:00:04 GMT any comments on pitfalls in raising a 3300 square foot house? any comments on pitfalls in raising a 3300 square foot house? ]]> Framing and Foundation Harley Richard http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f32/harley-richard-7889/ Post and Beam repair http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f32/post-beam-repair-7819/ Fri, 23 Oct 2009 03:38:01 GMT So our house got attacked by both poria and moisture ants. We have remidated both infections and now are left with one post that is almost eaten through and two damaged beams. The house was built in 1914, located in Western Washington. This is the only damage to the foundation that i can... So our house got attacked by both poria and moisture ants. We have remidated both infections and now are left with one post that is almost eaten through and two damaged beams. The house was built in 1914, located in Western Washington. This is the only damage to the foundation that i can identify.

The damage is located at the far outside corner of the house. One of the beams is has about 16-20 of damage and the other beam has about 20-24 of damage. The post is gone, and has to be replaced. My question is, is thie repair as easy as it looks.
My thoughts are:
1. Use a beam and jacks to take the load off of the damaged post and beams.
2. Remove damaged Post and cut off damaged sections of one beam and completely remove the other beam.
3. Replace Post
4. Add new post at location of cut off beam.
5. Slice in new beam.
6. On the section were I removed the beam, it is only about 4 feet from the damaged post and the next post. That is why I will remove the beam and replace completely instead of slicing in a new section.
7. When finished lower weight back onto repaired section and call it a weekend.

Am I missing anything that would cause me danger or make the situation worse?

Are two 25 ton Jacks enough for this small of repair?


]]> Framing and Foundation dartrpm http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f32/post-beam-repair-7819/ Sagging Second and Third Floor http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f32/sagging-second-third-floor-7809/ Thu, 22 Oct 2009 04:05:59 GMT Hey guys. . . I'm new to the site, looking for some general advice.

I just purchased a home with a mostly finished basement. The ceiling is a hung ceiling that I want to replace with drywall. After removing the hun ceiling I noticed that one rafter was sagging about 3/8 an inch lower than the rest. The house was remodeled to open up the entry way and I guess some structural rigidity was lost in the process. The wall on the first floor is positioned lengthwise on the the rafter which I think is causing the sag.

The basement room is roughly 15' X 30'. I am thinking about adding a wall in the basement that would follow the rafter lengthwise to lift up the ceiling and provide adequate strength.

Any thoughts or advice from the community? I have contacted a few professionals to come and give opinion, but I'd like to get some good background before I make any decisions.

Thanks in advance ]]> Framing and Foundation 581A0AM http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f32/sagging-second-third-floor-7809/