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		<title><![CDATA[DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum - HVAC]]></title>
		<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com</link>
		<description>Air conditioning and heating discussion area.</description>
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		<lastBuildDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:01:37 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum - HVAC]]></title>
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			<title>Help!!!</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/help-8014/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 21:53:27 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>have a 1000 sq ft slab house i bought cheap to fix up and rent or sell have it gutted no interior walls right now. need to decide which way to go with the heating system, dont really need air conditioning as we can see Lake Superior from the house and that keeps us cool in the summer, but it gets...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>have a 1000 sq ft slab house i bought cheap to fix up and rent or sell have it gutted no interior walls right now. need to decide which way to go with the heating system, dont really need air conditioning as we can see Lake Superior from the house and that keeps us cool in the summer, but it gets very cold here in the winter. am thinking about some kind of radiant ceramic electric heating, our average cost per KW right now is 6 to 7 cents, most people here go with naturaul gas, but i think for this house it may be better to go with something simpiler and hopefully less expensive, so long story short, i need some help and feedback on this.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/">HVAC</category>
			<dc:creator>toddj1</dc:creator>
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			<title>Having trouble with my Lennox G12Q3E-82-12 Furnace</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/having-trouble-my-lennox-g12q3e-82-12-furnace-8012/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 20:11:12 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi there-I just recently tried to turn on the heat in my house and the only thing that happened was cool air coming out of the returns.  Upon inspection, the pilot light does not seem to be lit.  It clearly states on the outside of the unit to NOT manually light the pilot as it is electric...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi there-I just recently tried to turn on the heat in my house and the only thing that happened was cool air coming out of the returns.  Upon inspection, the pilot light does not seem to be lit.  It clearly states on the outside of the unit to NOT manually light the pilot as it is electric ignition??  I did what the directions said, cut the power, turned down the thermostat, turned off gas and waited and then turned everything back on.  There is no &quot;clicking&quot; noise to even indicate that the pilot is trying to light itself.  Any and all help/suggestions would be appreciated.  Thanks.<br />
<br />
Jen</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/">HVAC</category>
			<dc:creator>jencath</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/having-trouble-my-lennox-g12q3e-82-12-furnace-8012/</guid>
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			<title>Faulty Valve Controller</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/faulty-valve-controller-8004/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 21:40:30 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello, 
 
I seem to be having a problem with my gas furnace, and I am just debating wether or not this is something I can do, or if I should call a professional. 
I do have an inclination for electrical, plumbing, and other house repairs so I am comfortable with doing repairs.  
The problem I am...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello,<br />
<br />
I seem to be having a problem with my gas furnace, and I am just debating wether or not this is something I can do, or if I should call a professional.<br />
I do have an inclination for electrical, plumbing, and other house repairs so I am comfortable with doing repairs. <br />
The problem I am having is, my digital thermostat says that the heat is on, but when I check the unit in my basement, itdoesn't fire up. The pilot is running just fine, but no gas going to the rest of the unit. So, from process of elimination, I took the cover off the gas regulator (Im not sure what it is actually called) and used a slot screwdriver to switch it to on, and it fires up no problem. <br />
When I try to use the thermostat to turn it off (after I manually turned it on) it doesn't work either.<br />
So, I am thinking that it is probably the valve controller.<br />
I am going to try just replacing the digital thermostat, but in the meantime, is there any advise or ideas out there that someone can suggest?<br />
It is a honetwell control unit, and a very old furnace. I would put the model numbers up, but I am at work currently, and will post them when I can if they are needed.<br />
<br />
Thanks</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/">HVAC</category>
			<dc:creator>seamaj</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/faulty-valve-controller-8004/</guid>
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			<title>Cold air return? or not?</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/cold-air-return-not-7981/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 15 Nov 2009 22:35:31 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[We have a small bungalow house, at one time a small addition was put on the back (10 x 18) there is one heat vent in that area (center of long wall on outside wall), no cold air return. then entrance to this area is along one end opening of about 6'), through ther kitchen. The problem seems to be...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>We have a small bungalow house, at one time a small addition was put on the back (10 x 18) there is one heat vent in that area (center of long wall on outside wall), no cold air return. then entrance to this area is along one end opening of about 6'), through ther kitchen. The problem seems to be in the cold weather there is a draft along the floor of the kitchen coming from the added room, should I add a cold air return in there, or would it just be defeating the purpose of the heat vent that is in there? thanx.</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/">HVAC</category>
			<dc:creator>toolman0114</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/cold-air-return-not-7981/</guid>
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			<title>Air exchanger - cold air</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/air-exchanger-cold-air-7980/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 15 Nov 2009 18:54:31 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Our air exchanger is bringing in cold air into the house - abour 12°C when its on exchagne and 16°C whne its on filter (average temp in hte house is 20-22°C) - even though there is suppose to be a heat recovery system.  The unit is in the basment which is not heated and is usually at 12°.  I've...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Our air exchanger is bringing in cold air into the house - abour 12°C when its on exchagne and 16°C whne its on filter (average temp in hte house is 20-22°C) - even though there is suppose to be a heat recovery system.  The unit is in the basment which is not heated and is usually at 12°.  I've checked the unit and at the last service they said it was working fine.  Is it that were losing too much heat in the unheated basement?  What are the implicaiton of not running the unit in the winter?  Obviously, this is not an issue during warmer months.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/">HVAC</category>
			<dc:creator>Eliz2008</dc:creator>
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			<title>Cold-air return ductwork not needed on high-efficiency furnace?</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/cold-air-return-ductwork-not-needed-high-efficiency-furnace-7949/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 10 Nov 2009 21:38:02 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Here in Kansas City, MO, I qualify for a free home repair and so they will be replacing my furnace and ductwork.  A guy came out and took pictures of the current furnace and ductwork and asked if I wanted a standard 80% efficiency furnace like the one already installed, or if I wanted a 97%...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Here in Kansas City, MO, I qualify for a free home repair and so they will be replacing my furnace and ductwork.  A guy came out and took pictures of the current furnace and ductwork and asked if I wanted a standard 80% efficiency furnace like the one already installed, or if I wanted a 97% efficiency model.  He explained that with the high-efficiency model, the exhaust would go out to a nearby side-wall instead of through the roof, and there would be a fresh-air intake installed on the side wall too.  He also said they would not put in any cold-air return ductwork, just leaving existing holes in the floor without any ductwork attached.<br />
<br />
This is a 2 story house with basement.  Currently, there are 8 vents, 4 on each floor, and 2 large cold air returns on the first floor, but none on the 2nd floor.  All the rooms on the 2nd floor are closed off, but have fairly big gaps in the doors that do allow air-flow.  I don't know how well the current system works because the furnace has always been &quot;red-tagged&quot; by the gas company.<br />
<br />
Does there way make sense - just remove the existing cold-air return ductwork and not replace it when installing a high-efficiency furnace?  <br />
<br />
I would prefer they installed new ductwork up to the 2nd floor for cold-air returns in all the 2nd-floor rooms accept the bathroom.  Wouldn't that be a better way to go and also keep the 2 cold air returns connected to ductwork on the first floor.  Wouldn't that be a better install?<br />
<br />
In general, why would they install cold air return ductwork on 80% efficiency models, but not on 97% efficiency models?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/">HVAC</category>
			<dc:creator>colinkeenan</dc:creator>
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			<title>Heat Exchanger Failure Question</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/heat-exchanger-failure-question-7946/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 10 Nov 2009 18:45:22 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[My 11 year old Trane XE90 needs a new heat exchanger. I was relieved to hear that the part is covered under a lifetime warranty, but shocked when my HVAC guy told me that the labor to install it would cost nearly as much replacing my old XE90 unit with a new one. 
 
I can't believe that after only...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>My 11 year old Trane XE90 needs a new heat exchanger. I was relieved to hear that the part is covered under a lifetime warranty, but shocked when my HVAC guy told me that the labor to install it would cost nearly as much replacing my old XE90 unit with a new one.<br />
<br />
I can't believe that after only 11 years of moderate mid-Atlantic use that I now have to replace the entire unit. My HVAC guy said he has never heard of a heat exchanger failing so soon, but thought that may be my propane had a high moisture content or possibly other chemicals that corroded it prematurely.<br />
<br />
Should it cost $2,000. in labor to replace a heat exchanger?<br />
<br />
Any input would be most appreciated.<br />
<br />
Thanks, Scott</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/">HVAC</category>
			<dc:creator>scotts</dc:creator>
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			<title>Actual size of oval type B vent pipe</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/actual-size-oval-type-b-vent-pipe-7838/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 25 Oct 2009 14:54:47 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[In my one story house I'm removing an interior wall which houses an oval, probably asbestos cement vent for a natural gas furnace (80%, 1998) which sits below in the basement. I want to remove it and replace it with a newer type one and move it over the 6" that seem to be available for doing that. ...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>In my one story house I'm removing an interior wall which houses an oval, probably asbestos cement vent for a natural gas furnace (80%, 1998) which sits below in the basement. I want to remove it and replace it with a newer type one and move it over the 6&quot; that seem to be available for doing that.  The old pipe is 3&quot; + wide and just over 11&quot; long.  Is that called a 4&quot; pipe?  Will a new type one be the same length, or might it be shorter?  What should I know ahead of time?  I understand the asbestos issues and am prepared to deal with that part of the list.  What else? <br />
Joybird</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/">HVAC</category>
			<dc:creator>joybird</dc:creator>
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			<title>1950s floor heater</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/1950s-floor-heater-7824/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 23 Oct 2009 15:04:32 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>My soon to be new apartment has a 1950s floor heater... is there any way to safely clean that thing!?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>My soon to be new apartment has a 1950s floor heater... is there any way to safely clean that thing!?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f8/">HVAC</category>
			<dc:creator>Staci_25</dc:creator>
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