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		<title><![CDATA[DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum - Electrical and Wiring]]></title>
		<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com</link>
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		<lastBuildDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 23:37:49 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum - Electrical and Wiring]]></title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com</link>
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		<item>
			<title>combo dual ion/photo smoke/co detector??</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/combo-dual-ion-photo-smoke-co-detector-7986/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 16 Nov 2009 19:21:50 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Does anyone manufacture a combination 120v hardwired dual ionization/photoelectric smoke detector and carbon monoxide alarm? 
It sounds like the dual sensor smoke alarm is the way to go for the best safety, and my state also requires CO detectors. All I can seem to find are combo smoke/CO alarms...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Does anyone manufacture a combination 120v hardwired dual ionization/photoelectric smoke detector and carbon monoxide alarm?<br />
It sounds like the dual sensor smoke alarm is the way to go for the best safety, and my state also requires CO detectors. All I can seem to find are combo smoke/CO alarms that use either ionization or photoelectric for the smoke sensor, not both. I don't want to install different alarms all over my ceiling. Surely there's one out there that combines all these features???<br />
Thanks!</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/">Electrical and Wiring</category>
			<dc:creator>philbert77</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/combo-dual-ion-photo-smoke-co-detector-7986/</guid>
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			<title>All the right moves?</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/all-right-moves-7982/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 16 Nov 2009 01:00:21 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have bought a home with the following conditions. A. Garage with only two outlets. One at the light switch and one overhead for the garage door motor. I wish to install a run from the switch, down the wall and add about 4 new outlets for work bench use and another short run from the moter over...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have bought a home with the following conditions. A. Garage with only two outlets. One at the light switch and one overhead for the garage door motor. I wish to install a run from the switch, down the wall and add about 4 new outlets for work bench use and another short run from the moter over close to the wall with a outlet or two in the ceiling for hanging shop lights. B. Unfinished basement with just two ceiling lights where I want to run a line from the light to the wall and down the wall adding outlets by attaching the boxes to a board and gluing the board to the wall with a couple dabs on adhesive. This for  temporary power.  I expect this would not be up to code and you known how &quot;temporary&quot; sometimes works out. <br />
Is my project the way to go for my use?  Any better suggestions? Thanks so much.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/">Electrical and Wiring</category>
			<dc:creator>Jinglebob</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/all-right-moves-7982/</guid>
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			<title>2 motion detectors on one circuit?</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/2-motion-detectors-one-circuit-7977/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 14 Nov 2009 23:18:40 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[can i just wire them in parallel so either will turn on the lights? 
 
to explain, my second bedroom is intentionally dark (second shift worker. the compleatly dark room lets me sleep a little later). today i played with a motion sensor like what would replace a wall switch, only it's mounted...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>can i just wire them in parallel so either will turn on the lights?<br />
<br />
to explain, my second bedroom is intentionally dark (second shift worker. the compleatly dark room lets me sleep a little later). today i played with a motion sensor like what would replace a wall switch, only it's mounted really low in a bench at the end of the bed controlling some rope lights wrapped around the bedposts.<br />
<br />
the lighting part works good. you can see the floor to get around without turning on lights, but i guess because the sensor is postioned so low it doesn't have as much range. <br />
<br />
i want to leave it low 'cause i like how it works. it pretty much only switches on. once you set your feet on the floor, but not 'till you get around to the end of the bed. i'd like to wire another facing the side of the bed (maybe even two more to catch either side), but the guy at the hardware store said i'd need to wire them like a 3 way switch.<br />
<br />
i'm really sure he's wrong, but i have to ask 'cause he was so sure i started questioning myself. if he's right, why would it be any different than regular switches?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/">Electrical and Wiring</category>
			<dc:creator>Philphine</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/2-motion-detectors-one-circuit-7977/</guid>
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			<title>garage door wont stay shut</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/garage-door-wont-stay-shut-7976/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 14 Nov 2009 20:34:00 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I posted this in windows and doors as well. I'm not sure which place it belongs in. 
I have a (hopefully) minor issue with my garage door opener. There is a small wire that runs from the motor unit along the rail to the center top of the garage door that has come loose. After this happened, the...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I posted this in windows and doors as well. I'm not sure which place it belongs in.<br />
I have a (hopefully) minor issue with my garage door opener. There is a small wire that runs from the motor unit along the rail to the center top of the garage door that has come loose. After this happened, the garage door won't stay shut on it's own without hitting the button again at the bottom of the cycle. This wire almost looks like some sort of ground wire. My question is, how does it attach back, and why did it come loose to begin with? It obviously maintains a sensor of some sort (and I obviously don't know much about garage door openers).<br />
<br />
Thanks for any help,<br />
Steve</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/">Electrical and Wiring</category>
			<dc:creator>stevemw</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/garage-door-wont-stay-shut-7976/</guid>
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			<title>auto shutoff for pantry door</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/auto-shutoff-pantry-door-7937/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 09 Nov 2009 19:38:57 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>How to install auto shutoff for pantry door?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>How to install auto shutoff for pantry door?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/">Electrical and Wiring</category>
			<dc:creator>ricks</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/auto-shutoff-pantry-door-7937/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Fan Kit</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/fan-kit-7921/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 07 Nov 2009 15:50:15 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello all, I'm new.  I have a ceiling fan/light combo and I want to take off the light fixture and just use it as a fan.  Trouble is that since it's remote controlled the fan doesn't work without the light.  Can I buy a bottom (kit?) that will enable it to work without the light?  It's a Hampton...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello all, I'm new.  I have a ceiling fan/light combo and I want to take off the light fixture and just use it as a fan.  Trouble is that since it's remote controlled the fan doesn't work without the light.  Can I buy a bottom (kit?) that will enable it to work without the light?  It's a Hampton Bay, I don't know the model.<br />
Thanks</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/">Electrical and Wiring</category>
			<dc:creator>capers</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/fan-kit-7921/</guid>
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			<title>Power supply problem</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/power-supply-problem-7905/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 05 Nov 2009 08:22:50 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a 600w ATX power supply I've had for one month. It has dual 80mm Fans one night I was playing warcraft 3 and noticed my computer was very quiet. I haven't checked the fan outside of the case out of sheer laziness of pulling it back and finding a flashlight. But once in a while the fan inside...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a 600w ATX power supply I've had for one month. It has dual 80mm Fans one night I was playing warcraft 3 and noticed my computer was very quiet. I haven't checked the fan outside of the case out of sheer laziness of pulling it back and finding a flashlight. But once in a while the fan inside still turns on and keeps everything cool. Is this normal or a problem?<br />
<br />
Best Regards,</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/">Electrical and Wiring</category>
			<dc:creator>Superpack</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/power-supply-problem-7905/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>1890 house wiring issues.  Help!</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/1890-house-wiring-issues-help-7891/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 03 Nov 2009 02:29:07 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[So I've been doing a renovation on an 1890 house for the past several years, but I haven't done anything to the electrical in the house for at least the last year.   
 
The problem is that suddenly, last weekend, the breaker for the circuit that powers all the lights on the first floor started...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>So I've been doing a renovation on an 1890 house for the past several years, but I haven't done anything to the electrical in the house for at least the last year.  <br />
<br />
The problem is that suddenly, last weekend, the breaker for the circuit that powers all the lights on the first floor started tripping.  Nothing was done to provoke this reaction (no new wiring/extra appliances added to the circuit/etc.).  I called an electrician and he used an ammeter to determine that the circuit was pulling 60 amps for the short time that it would stay on. <br />
<br />
Oh, and I should mention that it wasn't tripping immediately.  It would go on and produce an audible humming inside the breaker panel and then trip after 5 to 10 seconds.  <br />
<br />
The electrician was unable to remedy the problem, but he was able to isolate the offending leg of the circuit by disconnecting it at a junction just inside the house from the breaker panel.  So I have a few lights on the first floor, but the majority of the lights are still not operational.<br />
<br />
So basically the mystery is: sudden onset of breaker tripping, circuit pulling 60 amps for no known reason, circuit seems to need to &quot;charge up&quot; to the point of tripping the breaker (ruling out a direct short somewhere in the line).<br />
<br />
I am at a loss on this one and apparently so was the electrician I called.  I have accepted that I may need to pigtail off of other circuits in the rooms with the non-working lights, but I thought I would take a stab and see if anyone here has encountered a similar problem.  <br />
<br />
Please help if you can.<br />
<br />
Thanks.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/">Electrical and Wiring</category>
			<dc:creator>thewhistler</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/1890-house-wiring-issues-help-7891/</guid>
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			<title>Hot water heater installation</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/hot-water-heater-installation-7878/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 01 Nov 2009 16:07:14 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm replacing my electrical tankless HWH with a conventional tank HWH.  Very dissapointed in the tankless performance but that's another story. 
 
There are two electrical conduits going to the tankless, one for each of the coils I guess. How do I figure out which wires will be needed for my new...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I'm replacing my electrical tankless HWH with a conventional tank HWH.  Very dissapointed in the tankless performance but that's another story.<br />
<br />
There are two electrical conduits going to the tankless, one for each of the coils I guess. How do I figure out which wires will be needed for my new heater? And for the ones that are not needed what do I do with them? Should I just install a box on the wall and cap them off?<br />
<br />
Thanks</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/">Electrical and Wiring</category>
			<dc:creator>Raindem</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/hot-water-heater-installation-7878/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Repair metal joint in lamp</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/repair-metal-joint-lamp-7853/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 27 Oct 2009 02:31:34 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have an antique oil lamp that has been converted to electricity. The lamp socket was screwed into the base but has only a couple of threads. Is there a way to solder it lightly without making a big mess? I just read about something called JB Weld. Has anyone ever used it?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have an antique oil lamp that has been converted to electricity. The lamp socket was screwed into the base but has only a couple of threads. Is there a way to solder it lightly without making a big mess? I just read about something called JB Weld. Has anyone ever used it?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/">Electrical and Wiring</category>
			<dc:creator>connsu</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/repair-metal-joint-lamp-7853/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Quiet electric wall heater</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/quiet-electric-wall-heater-7828/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 23 Oct 2009 19:07:49 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I want to replace a very noisy 4,000 watt electric wall heater with the quietest high capacity wall heater possible. 
Any suggestions will be appreciated. 
I have three heaters in mind (King LPW series, Qmark CWH series, and Berko FRA series), but cannot get any comparisons of noise levels between...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I want to replace a very noisy 4,000 watt electric wall heater with the quietest high capacity wall heater possible.<br />
Any suggestions will be appreciated.<br />
I have three heaters in mind (King LPW series, Qmark CWH series, and Berko FRA series), but cannot get any comparisons of noise levels between them.<br />
I am also open to other heaters which will meet my needs.<br />
I need help before winter sets in.<br />
Thanks in advance.<br />
Art</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/">Electrical and Wiring</category>
			<dc:creator>artmann</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/quiet-electric-wall-heater-7828/</guid>
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			<title>glass top stove</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/glass-top-stove-7825/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 23 Oct 2009 15:31:10 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>how do i repalce a burner in a glass top stove- Kenmore?:confused:</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>how do i repalce a burner in a glass top stove- Kenmore?:confused:</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/">Electrical and Wiring</category>
			<dc:creator>djfoxylady</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/glass-top-stove-7825/</guid>
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			<title>Baseboard Electric Not Working</title>
			<link>http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/baseboard-electric-not-working-7807/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 22 Oct 2009 00:15:36 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a house with baseboard electric. LR, Kitchen and Bathroom working. Dining room wasn't until I removed thermostat and jumped wires. Now it works so I guess the problem is Thermostat. Now, upstairs 3 bdrms and bath not working. I took off thermostats and I don't seem to have power. When I took...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a house with baseboard electric. LR, Kitchen and Bathroom working. Dining room wasn't until I removed thermostat and jumped wires. Now it works so I guess the problem is Thermostat. Now, upstairs 3 bdrms and bath not working. I took off thermostats and I don't seem to have power. When I took off the thermostat (directly on the little baseboard in bathroom) I had a couple sparks like a short but I didn't see any breaks and I have no power.  One of the bedrooms thermostat had some fried wires (melted together and black) but as far as power  I get no volt reading but when I touch the wire there is a little tingle and some tiny sparking going on.<br />
<br />
My 1st test of the problem was at the box and all the lines used were reading 110.<br />
<br />
However, about a year ago there seemed to be a problem in the panel and wires were doubled up on breakers to get lights and outlets working.  No problem in the years time but I'm wondering if my panel has only one leg? b/c the breakers utilized are staggered or every other.<br />
<br />
Can someone give me some insight to my possible problems and how to diagnose?<br />
Thanks</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f9/">Electrical and Wiring</category>
			<dc:creator>djosephs</dc:creator>
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