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-   -   3 Point Locking Door Issues (http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f10/3-point-locking-door-issues-17669/)

diyguy85 05-21-2014 04:09 PM

3 Point Locking Door Issues
 
I am having issues with an exterior door from my walkout basement. We closed on buying the house March 20 and it worked fine until a few days ago. I tried to open it from the inside and it wouldn't open. At first I attributed it to humidity and a little binding because we just got some rain and heat, but after further inspection, the top latch of the 3 point latch system won't retract with the turn of the handle. After some careful and creative work with a few screwdrivers and a flashlight, I forced that top latch in and opened the door. Its very odd because the locking mechanism works fine, pushing all three latches further out, and the center and lower respond fine to turning the handle, and retract to open the door as required. Just that stupid top one will either do nothing when I turn the handle, or move 1 mm for a moment and still refuse to retract. I can push it in with my hand or a screwdriver but I can't get it to respond to the handle. I took the handle off, and tried to take the top latch out but clearly they are all connected by a system of connecting rods inside the door and I can't get them out. It seems as though the 3 point locking system is integrated to the door unless I am missing something. I don't know if its safer to have it permanently locked or permanently unlocked, but for now I put a few pieces of tape across the top latch trim piece to keep it inside the door so for now I have a functional door that won't lock.

How do I solve this problem? I'd like to get away without replacing the whole door if at all possible.

nealtw 05-21-2014 05:12 PM

1 Attachment(s)
depending on the brand. The one I have worked on, came out in almost one peice. the whole unit just slipped into the edge of the door. Remove the door handles and a bunch of screws that hold the stricker in place.

diyguy85 05-21-2014 05:14 PM

The one I have has a separate mounted piece for each latch so there are three separate metal strips at the top, middle, and bottom of the door. That is a lot different than yours.

nealtw 05-21-2014 05:22 PM

Can you find a brand name on anything?

diyguy85 05-21-2014 06:27 PM

I am not at home now, but I can look later.

nealtw 05-21-2014 07:36 PM

You might find this interesting
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/residential-commercial-security-devices-locks-keys-dead-bolts/188454-door-3-point-lockset.html#b

diyguy85 05-21-2014 08:36 PM

I looked at it. There is no brand that I can see on the door or the handles. At the top of the door above the latches is a small service hole that seems to be a service spot? My coworker suggested I spray a ton of WD40 in there to lube everything up. Is that a bad idea?

CallMeVilla 05-21-2014 08:43 PM

Yes, bad idea. I have used white lithium grease to lubricate locks. It will last longer than WD 40 and works better. Here are two more ideas ... Yale USA says Yale cylinders are lubricated from the factory with a TeflonŽ lubrication. Cylinders should be lubricated periodically depending upon environmental conditions and usage. LAB Lube is the approved lubricant. Caution: It is not recommended to lubricate cylinders with oil or to mix lubricants. "

LAB Lube is a micronized polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) powder lubricant that will not "cake-up" as graphite does. A superior friction-fighting agent

diyguy85 05-21-2014 08:46 PM

nealtw, I looked at that forum, and it sounds similar but different. Hopefully its not that same issue because the hardware was old when that thread happened in 2005. I couldn't imagine it'd be easy finding that stuff these days.

nealtw 05-21-2014 08:46 PM

Might not hurt, keep in mind that nylon parts swell with oil products. I don't know how wd40 would effect it.


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