nealtw

Where I live, water around windows is like death and taxes. So along with sealing out the water on the top and the sides we give it a path to get out from under the windows.
Our window supplier sends 1/4" shims to set the window on and 1/8" shims to put behind the bottom flange. The insulators follow this up with a 1/4" foam cord and caulk around the inside edge of the window, no foam or insulation in the 1/4" gap around the window. We only do windows with out a flange when we don't want to pull all the siding apart on a repacement, but we find so much rot we have given up on that.
Depending on where you live all this may not be code where you live.

LMHmedchem

Thanks for the video link. I am actually getting close to replacing the window, meaning I have all of the foundation repaired up the that level and I have the window frame built. Tomorrow I will order the new window and will install it when it arrives.

I have the protecto wrap to put on as you suggested, but I'm not sure how to apply it given that my window frame does not have wood siding on either side. In the video, they showed how to wrap the rain screen from the window frame around and over the tar paper they had on the plywod that runs up to the window frame. In my case, the window frame is surrounded by masonry. I can start the protecto wrap on the inside, wrap it across the front of the frame, and then back around the sides of the frame. Otherwise, I'm not sure what I' supposed to do with it.

LMHmedchem

nealtw

The idea whith this is to allow water that has gotton around the window a path out and not let it back in. I am thinking that you will be puting a trim around this window on the outside. If that is the case, with the primer you can get for your product it will stick to concrete. Just wrap enough that will be covered by the trim. You will caulk the sides and top between trim and concrete but don't caulk that joint accross the bottom.

LMHmedchem

I have my replacement window here now and am getting ready to put it in. It does fit nicely.

The window case sticks out further past the nail fin than I was expecting, I expect this is to allow for the thickness of the house wrap and siding, j-channel, etc. I'm not installing this where there will be siding around it, so that creates an issue. The case sticks out 1" past the fin, so I will need azek trim that is 1" thick (not 3/4"), or this is going to look really funny with the window case sticking out 1/4" past the trim. For this application, I probably would have preferred a nail fin that was all the way at the front of the case, like a sliding door would be. I could use something like brick mold, but I want something around 2.5" wide and 1" (full) thick.

Any recommendations? I would think that there would be dozens of azek style trim kits available for different styles.

Also, do I put a bead of sealant on the back of the nail fin, or is the protecto wrap enough? If so, what do I use for sealant?


LMHmedchem

nealtw

Around here will leave the bottom unsealed so water can find it's way out. You kinda have to decide between water getting out and bugs getting in. And yes you have to play with the trim until you find something that works for. We mostly start with 1x6 primed,combed facia an go from there and leaving the plastic 1/4 prowd is what I have.
Makes it easy to caulk.