DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum > DIY Home Improvement > Windows and Doors > Door project




Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 12-02-2012, 08:29 PM  
pbv
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 5
Default Door project

Hello,

This is my first post so I am sorry if anything comes across as confusing. I am planning on replacing the door a utility room in my house. Currently we use it to store bedding, cleaning supplies and whatnot. Its in my base ment and a concrete foundation.

Here is a link to a scale mockup of the room and what i have come up with so far.

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/27366997/room%20CAD.skp and a PDF for anyone who doesn't want to install sketchup.

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/27366997/room%20CAD.pdf


Here is my situation.

I would like to install the door and mount it with mortise hinges to the wall stud and the frame of the door. From my sketchup you can see that the door is custom made using ripped 2x4 to make them 2x3's in order to get consistent width on both boards. Then a 3/4 inch plywood surface is mounted to the frame to give it structure. Then a 3/4 inch plywood with my home cabinet wood type veneer as the face surface. The door will be trimmed in on the outside to hide the gap. The hinge side of the door will close flush and the other side will have a 1/2 inch gap to allow the door to open a close properly.

I didn't design this door with a jamb as the weight of the door may not be too much for a jamb.

The door will be heavy so I sourced some 6x6 stainless steel ball bearing butt hinges. I may install 2 hinges or 4 depending on your responses.

The door will be held shut using a magnetic lock which is not show on the rendering.

Here is the question:

Can I mortise the hinges into the frame studs and the custom door I am making and not have a problem with sagging? Is there something here I am not considering?



__________________
pbv is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-03-2012, 12:17 AM  
nealtw
Contractor
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: vancouver, b.c.
Posts: 9,439
Liked 746 Times on 666 Posts
Likes Given: 1303

Default

I cannot access your link but I can not imagine going to all that work on a door and not using a jam or how you would finnish the trim with out one. The weight is not a problem, you just use a few screws in each hinge that would reach thru the jam and screw into the studs. The door should be 1/4" smaller than the inside of the jam. To make it fit without hitting the jam you back cut each side 5 degrees off square.



__________________
nealtw is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-03-2012, 09:11 PM  
pbv
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 5
Default

The door in my cad is 4.5 inches thick. I was going to use 4 inch wide wood panels over the face to cover the gap on the left (non-hinge) side.

I expect the door to weigh approx 200-250lbs when completed due to the 2x4 frame, two layers of 3x4 plywood and the misc wood components fastened to it. I am not sure a three sided door jamb will hold the weight.

My goal is to make the door look like a build in pool queue rack in order to hide this door and closet from view and to complement the pool table in my basement.

You think I can get by using a standard door jamb?

You can copy and paste the links into a new browser window and they should open no problem.

Jeff

__________________
pbv is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-03-2012, 10:46 PM  
nealtw
Contractor
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: vancouver, b.c.
Posts: 9,439
Liked 746 Times on 666 Posts
Likes Given: 1303

Default

Seeing your drawing helps a lot. I don't see why 4 big hinges wouldn't work, You may need to put plywood on the back side to stop it from wraping, maybe that is your plan. I would check out the stud on the hinge side, there should be two on each side and they are likely just toenailed to the floor plate and the floor plate may not be fastened down good enough to handle the weight when it is open. A regular door jam wouldn't work but I would have dressed out the sides with something but now that you have it built I wouldn't worry about it.

__________________
nealtw is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-06-2012, 09:04 PM  
pbv
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 5
Default

Sorry for the delay, work has been busy. I have not built the door in any way yet. Only the rough opening for the door is there. It only exists as a CAD drawing.

You think it would be better to place a sheet of 3/4 plywood on the backside of the 2x4 frame and then the "nice" 3/4 veneered plywood out the outside facing side, thus sandwiching the frame between the two.

I can do that of course. Should I add a horizontal crossmember from the top hinge side to the bottom right (opening) side to help with the load?

Is there any way to help secure the bottom of the toeplate to the concrete floor?

I can still "dress out the sides" as the opening is still in the rough form. But forgive me I have no idea what that means.

Thanks for all your input.

__________________
pbv is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-06-2012, 10:29 PM  
nealtw
Contractor
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: vancouver, b.c.
Posts: 9,439
Liked 746 Times on 666 Posts
Likes Given: 1303

Default

If you get to the hanger department of your local building supply store you can find something there to help hold the studs in place and use an ancher bolt to bolt down the plate.
When I said dress out the opening, that's anything like drywall' wood trim or anything to give the opening a finish rather than just looking at the side of the studs in the opening, which normally would be the door jam. That won't work with your door but you could just use 3/4x4 1/2 for that.
There are lots of plans for these on the net. http://www.houzz.com/hidden-door-hardware
or http://www.secretdoorways.com/

__________________

Last edited by nealtw; 12-06-2012 at 10:41 PM.
nealtw is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-07-2012, 10:38 AM  
Wuzzat?
Senior Member
 
Wuzzat?'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,297
Liked 164 Times on 151 Posts
Likes Given: 89

Default

A 250 lb door 3' wide and 80" high with two hinges 60" apart will have 250x18/60 = 75 lbs trying to pull out the upper hinge (and the same pushing in on the lower hinge) but use long screws anyway because these screws probably see sort of a 'shearing impact load'.

__________________
Wuzzat? is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-07-2012, 06:04 PM  
pbv
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 5
Default

So it would be better then, to use a wood plank. 4.5 inches wide x 3/4 inches thick to act as the jamb. I would flush mount this to the exterior wall and then shim it plumb vertically to ensure the door is plumb. Then use 3 inch screws to attach it to the stud to keep it plumb?

I will use 4 hinges to help distribute the weight load across the jamb then for best long term results correct?


Does this sound correct?

__________________
pbv is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-07-2012, 06:19 PM  
nealtw
Contractor
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: vancouver, b.c.
Posts: 9,439
Liked 746 Times on 666 Posts
Likes Given: 1303

Default

Yes. I hope you make a nice job of it, we will want to see it when your done.

__________________
nealtw is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-07-2012, 07:16 PM  
pbv
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 5
Default

OK,

Here goes:

I have edited the original CAD to include the "dressing up on the outside as well as the 3/4 inch hinge jamb and sandwiched the 2x4 box frame between the plywood layers.

Please look it over and let me know what you think. BTW you can pan around and zoom using the cad file where the PDF is just a static view.

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/27366997/room%20CAD%202.skp
and the PDF
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/27366997/room%20CAD%202.pdf



__________________
pbv is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply


Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter DIY Home Repair Forum Replies Last Post
Door restoration project grows . . . homegirl Framing and Foundation 5 06-24-2012 09:18 PM
Add A Project TxBuilder HouseRepairTalk Website Help 0 01-30-2012 01:07 PM
New Amateur with a Project MoreCowbell Introductions 1 05-29-2011 01:15 PM
our new project carl Introductions 5 07-21-2008 06:35 PM
Project #1 new entry door hopelesslyinept Windows and Doors 3 04-30-2008 06:41 PM