DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum > DIY Home Improvement > Windows and Doors > Drywall meets door frame





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Old 03-18-2007, 06:42 AM  
Stirator
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Default Drywall meets door frame

I am new to remodeling, but just about have finished a remodel of an old home. I need to do the trim and it will be finished and my wife can quit nagging me to finish it, (we have lived in it while doing a total remodel for 3 years). My problem is this,,, It has plaster lathes all over, so to make it easier, I just covered all the walls and ceilings with Drywall. (In some cases I covered the ceilings with 1X 8 salvaged wood from crates at work first to hold the falling plaster on the ceilings up). This took care of the loose plaster and made a nice surface for screwing the drywall to, as well as making a great place to attach the drywall to. Drywall made a good place to splatter mud on and smooth down for a nice textured finish, but where I took the frames off the doors and windows now there is a rough edge of drywall that if I just nail the frames back on, will show. All I can think of is to buy some really thin wood, attach it to the face of the doors and windows and then put the frames back on.


I hope you can understand what I am trying to say here. If you open the door, stand with one foot in each room and look at the edge of the door frame, where the latch is at, you can see (from the left to the right), first, drywall, then the door frame, then more drywall in the next room. Looking at this, if I were to just nail the door frames back on, there would be an exposed edge of drywall showing. I see no way to cover the exposed drywall except a thin piece of wood. And even then I think I will need to cut down all of the doors to make room for this new wood.
Then comes the other problem. If I have to use another piece of wood to cover the existing door frame (and windows too), how do I ever get a stain to use on this new thin wood to match all the old wood in this house?

I don't have any problems with anything else, even did the floor tiling in both the bath and kitchen, and tiled the backsplashes for the kitchen counters. Moved walls, (nephew is an engineer and ok'd them first), installed new kitchen cabinets, made an existing bedroom into a large bathroom complete with a garden tub, shower with whirlpool. Moved a set of stairs and redid the entire house. I even moved a couple ceilings back to the original 12 foot heights and reworked the crown moulding and it is back up. But I simply cannot figure out this simple covering of the door and window edges.

Any help?



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Old 03-18-2007, 08:24 AM  
Daryl in Nanoose
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When you drywalled did you put the drywall on top of the door jambs ? Or have I missed understood you.



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Old 03-18-2007, 09:45 AM  
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I removed the trim around the doors, then drywalled up to the opening since the old plaster went up to there. The drywall is 5/8 inch thick so if I nail the trim back there is 5/8 inch edge of drywall showing.

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Old 03-18-2007, 10:09 AM  
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Last question: Are you useing new moulding or the the original?

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Old 03-19-2007, 05:32 AM  
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I was going to try using the old trim. But I am not sure. I have a lot of new trim in my garage already stained, (the result of overbuying and not knowing for sure what I needed).
I would really like to keep the old trim since it has such a nice look to it, (I have been told it is Oak). It matches the Crown Moulding and the chair rail and the baseboards really nicely.
I hope this helps and I sure hope you have a solution figured out. Like I said in the original post, I am new to this remodeling thing. I have figured out everything else all by myself, but this one thing has me stumped. I appreciate your willingness to offer help.

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Old 03-19-2007, 12:25 PM  
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Could you attach a 5/8's strip on a 90 degree angle on the edge of the trim, so that it wraps around to meet the frame? I think as long as the strips are symmetrical it won't detract much from the beauty of the original trim, and it shouldn't be too noticeable with a near match or complementary match in stain. It may even add a nice personal touch

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Old 03-19-2007, 07:19 PM  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bethany14 View Post
Could you attach a 5/8's strip on a 90 degree angle on the edge of the trim, so that it wraps around to meet the frame? I think as long as the strips are symmetrical it won't detract much from the beauty of the original trim, and it shouldn't be too noticeable with a near match or complementary match in stain. It may even add a nice personal touch
Took the words right out of my mouth.
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Old 03-20-2007, 05:14 PM  
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I read what you both are saying, but I must be really dumb. I see that you tell me to attach a 5/8 piece,,,,,,,,, but where do I get a 5/8 piece of wood, and how do I attach it to drywall? Also, this 5/8 piece of wood, it would have to be really thin to fit so it does not stand out away from the frame of the door. Or is there something I am missing here? The way it looks to me I could nail the trim back up and then would need a paper thin piece of 5/8 wood to somehow attach to the drywall,,,,is this what you mean?

Again, Thanks for the help, but I don't understand what you mean about the 5/8 piece.

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Old 03-20-2007, 08:36 PM  
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I think I have mis understood you. Drywall usally goes to the door frame but not on top of it then normaly there is a 1/4" reveal ( moulding sits 1/4" back from the inside of the door frame)
What do you classify as thin? How thin we talking about??
The pic shows you what we are talking about but if it is really thin then all I can suggest is two things.
1- cut the drywall back so you can insert a piece like in the drawing.
2- install your moulding and glue all sides and tack nail the piece to the edge of the drywall so its even with your moulding ( see second pic) the nails are there to hold the piece of wood in while the glue dries.This is all I can think of short of filling it up with filler and that might crack.





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Old 03-21-2007, 11:29 AM  
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One other try; The wall being thicker than the door frame and you want to nail the old trim back on (the casing), rip a piece of 3/4" oak 5/8" wide and nail it to the frame before putting the casing on. Set this filler back from the face of the frame 1/16" (a reveal) then put the casing on.
The color; It is possible to put varying amounts of roofing tar in mineral spirits to make an exact color of wood stain (from Mother Earth News).
Or, another thought is to leave the filler natural giving a look similar to whitewall tires. It would be a neat conversation piece.
Glenn



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