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Old 05-12-2008, 06:26 AM   #11
Dr_Jim
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Location: michigan
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Hmmmm.......this may complicate things.
Handyguys method sounds good,....but it seems I may need a little more work in the framing to achieve this?

- Remove drywall from interior
- Determine window opening, frame kingstuds, header...etc..etc...to create rough opening.

- Cut exterior T1-11 to exact size of rough opening ??

- Lay special flashing tape around perimeter of exterior T1-11, top-down fashion, bending it to fit the inside of the rough opening as well.

- Insert window from exterior, laying nail flange directly onto tape (over T1-11).
Ofcourse use caulk under flange,...and nail through T1-11 into opening framing studs ??

- Another layer of flashing tape over nail flange around perimeter.

- Cover nail flange/tape with trim boards,..

- Caulk the hell out of it all.

- Finish up interior.

Sound about right??
ANY problems using a normal non replacement window?

also, on the bottom sill of the framing, would it help to use a beveled sill plate to make sure any water that comes in goes back out?

Any other thoughts?

Thanks guys!
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Old 08-11-2009, 07:50 PM   #12
kstommytom
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Location: wilmington nc
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First I would like to thank all of you guys for the good advice. I am a small time, one man operation. I take on every thing I can get my hands on to make a little money.
I am contracted to add a window in a garage for one of my customers. I am charging 800 dollars labor. Is that a fair charge? Next question is the R.O. of the window the same on the the inside (studs) as the outside (brick). I hope that the question makes since. If anyone out there could answer those questions I would appreciate it. Thnaks
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