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Old 10-11-2006, 01:35 PM   #11
Quattro
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bethany, that is exactly what I'm going to do, in addition to adding the 3/4" piece of *oak* hardwood to replace the jack stud.

Thanks very much for the ideas and cautions everyone, I'll let you know how it comes out (should be able to tackle it this weekend), and maybe get a photo or two up. Big ups to Square Eye for the great insight.
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Old 10-11-2006, 01:39 PM   #12
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oops...just looked higher on the posts and noticed you'd already had that figured out der.
Definately post some pics!
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Old 10-11-2006, 01:42 PM   #13
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Hello Quattro:
I want to congratulate you for getting the best door available anywhere (my opinion). I was in the Home Builder's Association for several years and I noticed one thing about window manufacturing representatives; at the end of their presentation they would say "Its just as good as an Andersen". That let me know which window had the respect of all manufacturers. Keep your sales slip and all information, they are serious about the 20 year warranty.
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Old 10-11-2006, 05:29 PM   #14
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Default Sounds good.

You also had the option of changinging the header size.
What you are doing sounds fine though.
For future reference.....
One thing I have seen done is to modify the header on the inside of the house with an LVL. Removing one of the layers of 2xwhatever you have and notching the king stud to accept the LVL. This way you do not have to mess around with the exterior, and this will carry the weight of a one story home.

I would never have returned the door either.Have you ever seen the look you get at the service counter!!

Good luck with your door.
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Old 10-12-2006, 05:06 AM   #15
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Your roof style, if you have rafter tails or a gable end over this opening, and the wall composition behind the siding, are determining factors of the amount of weight the header is carrying.
However, 6' is not a large opening and since one of your concerns is the least amount of disturbance to the exterior as possible, this is what I would do.
Remove the existing, with a sawzall cut the attaching devices between the jack stud and the exterior wall covering, install your temp. brace, remove the jack stud, install an A23 http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/A-Z.html, and the a 1X DF.
Install your new door system.
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Old 10-16-2006, 08:58 AM   #16
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Quick update.

The new door is in, and it works! It took 7 hours from initial demolition of the old door, to putting on the handle hardware on the new door.

Thanks to everyone for the help. Now I can focus on more important things, like the floor, cabinets, ovens, cooktop, sink, dishwasher, and....oh my.

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