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Old 06-03-2013, 03:33 PM  
o2284200
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Default Replacing Prehung Front Entry Door in Stucco

What should I expect to be included on the labor end of installation of a single pre-hung front entry door in stucco? i.e. My first proposal includes: "Remove existing wood door and install owner;s door into opening. Secure with tapcons into existing block opening. Add jamb extensions to door along with new casing. Putty,prep and painting of jamb and door by others. Caulk exterior jamb at new stucco surface with white urethane caulking."

ALSO:

The threshold on the new pre-hung door is 3/4" shorter than my current threshold; 1.5" shorter, if you include the exterior molding strip. The 3rd pic down shows a pencil mark where the new threshold would reach, if I keep the new pre-hung door flush with walls on the inside. The 1st installer says I have 2 options but either way, I will lose the exterior molding strip & not be able to replace it:

1) Keep the new pre-hung door flush with walls on the inside & fill in the gap left in the front with more stucco, which means I have to hire a stucco guy.
2) Push the new pre-hung door forward to stucco and then add strips of wood on the inside to make it flush with the walls.

All helpful thoughts & opinions are greatly appreciated, Thanks!





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Old 06-03-2013, 04:14 PM  
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Two things to consider. You want the door to be a close to the wall surface so that the door can swing all the way open with out running into anything but you also want some of the hinge screws and stricker plate screws to be able to anchor into the substructure.



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Old 06-03-2013, 07:24 PM  
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If I am looking at the pictures correctly the original is an outswing door. Is the new unit an outswing as well or does it swing back into the house? If so putting extention jambs on the inside should not effect the swing of the door at all. It will just make the door sit a little forward in the opening. If the new door is an inswing and you want it to sit flush with the inside then why can't your guy install extension jambs on the outside of the door frame to take up your extra space before putting the door in the opening? There may be a valid reason I just can't tell from the pictures.

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Old 06-04-2013, 05:43 AM  
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I would specify and inswing so as to keep the components in towards the home and therefore more secure and not rusting.

At that point, you can trim out the exterior jamb to stucco connection with any number of PVC trim pieces and you will not need a stucco repair aspect of the job.

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Old 06-04-2013, 08:44 AM  
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Thanks! The original & new are both right out-swings. I'm still looking into it but I think out-swings are preferred or required; I believe it has something to do with being in a hurricane zone.

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Old 06-04-2013, 09:57 AM  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2284200 View Post
Thanks! The original & new are both right out-swings. I'm still looking into it but I think out-swings are preferred or required; I believe it has something to do with being in a hurricane zone.
That's a reasonable point and with that in mind it is important to have the screws into the framing. You might consider an industrial steel door frame.
They are adjustable to different wall thickness and the hinges are welded to the frame.
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Old 06-07-2013, 08:31 AM  
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It appears that fiberglass doors are becoming very popular down here because steel rusts.

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Old 06-07-2013, 08:35 AM  
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They really look good too.

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Old 06-07-2013, 09:21 AM  
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+1


Some of the newer grained fiberglass units are great looking.

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Old 06-14-2013, 01:04 PM  
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Here's the new door I got at HD; it comes primed white. Also, I confirmed with local building dept that all ingress/egress doors must be outswing per Florida Building Code for High Wind Hurricane Zones (HWHZ)





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