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-   -   Window has receded. Drywall no longer is even with it. (

geelsu 06-18-2011 08:50 PM

Window has receded. Drywall no longer is even with it.
I have a window frame that has receded so that the drywall across the top and down the side for the most of the way no longer matches up. The window framing is 1/2 inch lumber. I was thinking that just slapping mud in there and building up over the 1/2 framing would just lead to future cracking. What is best to do? Should I build up over the frame with thin pieces of wood or something so that the window frame will match the drywall or should I just cut out sections of the old drywall and fit in new pieces. I am worried that by using the second method that I will be able to match the new drywall insert and the window frame, but the other end of the new drywall will not match up with the old dry wall. I am trying to avoid having to cut out a huge piece of drywall to fix this. Any other ideas? Does my description make sense?

oldognewtrick 06-18-2011 09:20 PM

Welcome to House Repair Talk, post a picture of the area, it will help greatly.

nealtw 06-19-2011 09:27 PM

Usually if you have wood around the window you wood also have trim, this sounds like a problem with drywall that was covered up. We do need those photos.

geelsu 06-23-2011 07:34 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Hi all, Sorry for the delay in responding to your replies. Here are a couple of photos. Thanks for your help.

nealtw 06-23-2011 07:59 PM

Most time when you see this type of finnish at the windows, there is a corner bead and drywall continues to the window. I think your window has been changed and someone gave this a quick fix. You could remove the wood and replace it with drywall but the wood in there is a much better plan. I would sand the surface and apply moulding to match the moulding around the doors in that room.

TheDoorGuy 06-24-2011 06:56 AM

A few ways that I have approached this common situation:
1. Add a thin strip of wood around the opening as a jamb extension.
Install casing as usual. Caulk between wall and casing if you have to shim
casing out to make miters work.
2. Put a pencil mark on the wall around the outside of where the casing will install.
Smash down the offending areas with a hammer, staying inside the pencil marks.
then attach casing with proper reveal around jamb.
3. Install the casing laying flat on the wall with proper reveals around the opening.
Caulk the areas where the casing is held away from the jamb. This is probaly
the easiest approach.

Finish carpentry is about getting the best looking results you can without having
to rebuild the house.
Best of luck with the project!

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