DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum > DIY Home Improvement > Insulation and Radiant Barriers > Attic Insulation/Baffolds/Wall Insulation/Air Leaks




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Old 10-01-2011, 07:31 AM  
pkay
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Default Attic Insulation/Baffolds/Wall Insulation/Air Leaks

Hi all,
Have a house built in the 50's in Michigan. The house is very cold. I am living in the bedroom with a heater in the winter time....

Problems:
1. Insufficient Baffolds in the attic. There is sufficient Roof/Ridge/Gable vents
2. Large air leak spaces (ie hole around chiminey in attic, 2" gap in a foundation overhang along the whole back of the house [ouch])
3. Attic has white fluff insulation covered with R19, but have been told that the way it is layed I only have about R6 currently.
4. No insulation in walls.
a. Complicated by Asbestos siding covered by Vinyl and Brick 1/2 way up on 3 sides. Have been told insulation would have to be done from the inside.
b. True 2 x 4 studs
c. Neighbors driveway is right against my bedroom wall (I hear EVERYTHING)

Solutions/Questions:
1. Getting appropriate baffolds in attic is a given...
2. Tightening up the air leaks is a given. I am hiring this done because of the extent of work and inaccessablity with available products to a large portion of the problem.
3. Attic insulation
a. Should I remove all existing insulation in the Attic &/or peal it back for b?
b. Other than sealing and closing up the big air leaks- is there anything that should go on/ between the ceiling joists in the attic before insulating/re-insulating?
c. I know I need at least R49 in attic in Michigan
1.) What is the benefit of blown in Cellulose vs blown in Fiberglass? With the exception of floating in the air vs. itching.
2.) What is the settling factor of Cellulose vs. Fiberglass?
2.) When I blow in the insulation- do I blow it in over the baffolds as well?
4. Wall insulation
a. I know I would have to drill in the middle between each stud on the outside walls and am aware there could be fire stop blocks between
1.) I should be able to tell if there is a fire stop block with a stud finder correct? Would they be in each cavity?
2.) If there is not a block, can I drill just one hole at the top to fill the cavity? Or is 2 better and why? How far from the Ceiling/ floor?
3.) Any tips for how to be sure the cavity is full?
4.) What is the expected R value in a wall?
5.) Will I achieve any level of sound barrier from my neighbor?

Last Question:
If for financial reasons I need to choose between attic vs wall insulation for now-- which should I do first? Thank you so much!!!



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Old 10-03-2011, 04:59 AM  
oldognewtrick
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pkay, I'd suggest weather sealing the gaps around you home first and then insulating your attic. Appling insulation from the outside will create major problems if you are not carefull. Also check the caulking around windows, doors (and threshold) or any opening. You want to stop moving air.

Oh. welcome to House Repair Talk.



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Old 10-16-2011, 07:12 AM  
pkay
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Default Insulation

I definately appreciate comment about sealing up the air leaks. Thank you.
1. What about the difference between blown in insulation (cellulose vs fiberglass).
2. Any suggestions as to which is better and why?
3. When you blow it in the attic can you blow it over the baffolds or avoid?
4. Any instructions about the best way to blow it into the walls from the inside?

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Old 10-23-2011, 12:42 PM  
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Baffles are the cardboard/foam/plastic pieces between the rafter bays for directing the incoming soffit air up along the roof sheathing, not toward the insulation to degrade the amount/R-value there. They separate the insulation from the air pathway above, do not block them.
Air seal the attic first by removing/replacing the existing insulation after foaming/tinning blocking any air leaks. It is easy to find wiring/plumbing holes by looking for dirty fiberglass insulation in the lower layer. Air seal with canned foam, not stuffed f.g. Be careful around can lights (recessed) as per article: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=20&ved=0CDcQFjAJOAo&url=htt p%3A%2F%2Fwww.buildingscience.com%2Fdocuments%2Fgu ides-and-manuals%2Fgm-attic-air-sealing-guide%2Fat_download%2Ffile&rct=j&q=attic%20air%20f lows&ei=2pPNTOjIFYOBlAe22uzuCA&usg=AFQjCNEV_sFpJPB 8DwLjAd-t6PJoO842EQ&cad=rja

Cellulose is somewhat better at stopping air movement than f.g. I suggest this in the walls and ceiling if ceiling joists can support it to reach your required R-49 per Zone 6: Residential ENERGYSmart Library

Two more to read: http://www.wag-aic.org/1999/WAG_99_baker.pdf

There's more to insulation than R-value | New Life Journal | Find Articles

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