blowing in fiberglass DIY
 

Hi, i need about 450 sq. ft. blown in between my studs from inside. I saw at HD and Lowes you can rent a machine for blowing in celluose. What about doing the same with fiberglass? What is involved? I am thinking about just buying a hole saw and going at it.

Seems HD and Lowes don't sell the blow in fiberglass, only cellulose.

Can't say that I've ever seen blown-in fiberglass but, that doesn't mean it doesn't exist.
I believe it does for attic areas but, never heard of it being done in walls. Primarily, the easiest and predominant method of insulation occurrs at time of build with batts being installed by hand.
Just off the top of my head, two problems become obvious. 1. You don't want to blow fiberglass and have it become airborn. 2. Blow in process might lead to compression, a no-no when it comes to fiberglass.
I also saw at HD that the machine rental is free with the purchase of X amount of cellulose. Not a bad deal if your doing alot.

I've seen blown-in fiberglass somewhere but if I remember, it's a special machine that chops it too...

Going with a guy that blows in Certainteed SP.

Good choice, people answering here without answers. YES they make fiberglass for wall fill, YES it has a SUPERIOR r-rating than batts, YES it is the best bang for your buck, good choice mayhem, hope they gave you a good price.

yea, i read good things about the blow in certainteed SP insulation. I found an old friend from high school that does it. He did the job for $700 cash. I noticed a BIG difference right away in heat and sound in my bedroom. Thanks for reassuring my choice, i thought it was the way to go. I don't know about the cellulose, but i read too many negatives about it. But didn't find any negatives about the certaineed SP product and i am very happy with my decision.

Cellulose is superior in the end and it does not have possiblity of supporting mold.

Dick

that's not what i have read from other end users. Cellulose is ground up treated recycled paper, right? Well......what happens after several yrs. go by and that treatment wears off or even gets wet? Do you even know what happens when paper gets wet? Cellulose is the mold rat here buddy. Also, it settles ALOT leaving gaps at the top after time.
Sorry, but cellulose hasn't been around long enough to be superior to fiberglass.

After looking at about 1,000 damaged and flooded homes in LA & MS after Katrina and Rita it begins to jump out at you.

Impossible to dry out fiberglass if it ever gets wet unless you toss it out and move it around with adequate air flow.If fiberglass gets as little as 1% moisture in it the insulation value can be cut in half. So the sensible thing to do it throw it away and replace. Fiberglass does not absorb much water, but its structure and texture hold water as source for mold in the wood and drywall. It also not good at fire resistance since the fibers melt quite easily.

Cellulose is treated with a very permanent material that allows it so smother flames and also is resistant to moisture and mold.

Dick

There's more to insulation than R-value | New Life Journal | Find Articles at BNET

http://www.cellulose.org/userdocs/TechnicalSpecifications/ConsumerUpdate02-InsulationEffectiveness.pdf

Your insulation weighs 1.6lb./ft.3, dense-pack cellulose weighs 3.25-3.75lb./ft.3, or twice as heavy to help seal any air gaps from wire penetration holes, sheathing, electrical boxes, etc. Your glass is a low density insulation, unlike cellulose DP, that will have convective loops in every stud bay, pp.#45: http://www.buildingscienceconsulting.com/presentations/documents/2010-03-10_When_R-Value_Doesn%20t_Measure_Up.pdf

I would have at least got the Optima, one step better, but still less efficient than D.P.
UMass Amherst: Building and Construction Technology » Cellulose Insulation – A Smart Choice

Gary