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-   -   Garage Ceiling installation (http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f106/garage-ceiling-installation-2238/)

SoFaKingCity 05-04-2007 12:24 AM

Garage Ceiling installation
 
Hi all! I'm trying to install ceiling for my garage, and I don't know where to begin with :(. I don't know whether to go sheetrock, drywall or suspended ceiling??

People at the Lowes recommended sheetrock, but I think I am going to have some problem screwing them down since the frame is 47in far apart. Or how do you screw them down anyway?? Can I go with drywall on the ceiling instead of sheetrock?
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12302203839.jpg

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12302203811.jpg

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12302203875.jpg

SoFaKingCity 05-04-2007 12:25 AM

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12302203895.jpg

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12302203895.jpg

More pics

glennjanie 05-04-2007 10:11 AM

Hello SofaKingCity and welcome to the forum:
Your ceiling joists are spaced on 48" centers and that will not support drywall, Sheet rock or any other kind of gypsum wallbaord. The maximum span is 2' centers and that will sometimes show sags after the first year.
I recommend a suspended tile ceiling (with the metal rails) and I would use a fiberglass tile because it is more resistant to moisture.
Glenn

SoFaKingCity 05-04-2007 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by glennjanie (Post 9525)
Hello SofaKingCity and welcome to the forum:
Your ceiling joists are spaced on 48" centers and that will not support drywall, Sheet rock or any other kind of gypsum wallbaord. The maximum span is 2' centers and that will sometimes show sags after the first year.
I recommend a suspended tile ceiling (with the metal rails) and I would use a fiberglass tile because it is more resistant to moisture.
Glenn

Thanks Glenn, another question concerning suspended ceiling, there is moving garage door and garage door brain box is sitting in the middle. How can I get around to it?? thanks

glennjanie 05-04-2007 02:59 PM

Suspend the ceiling 2" below the joists (the minum working space), then your only obstruction to work around is the vertical angle that holds the opener motor up.
Glenn

glennjanie 05-04-2007 03:09 PM

Here's another method to hold the ceiling up. You see how they used strips on the rafters to strengthen the metal (probably 2 X 4s). You can do the same to the bottom of the joists and then use the gypsum wallboard if it is that critical to you. It is a lot of extra expense and trouble though; hope you have a 16d nail gun.
Glenn

SoFaKingCity 05-04-2007 07:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by glennjanie (Post 9535)
Suspend the ceiling 2" below the joists (the minum working space), then your only obstruction to work around is the vertical angle that holds the opener motor up.
Glenn

The problem is that the middle garage door roller rail isn't level like the sides. I cant work below it because ceiling will meet moving garage door, and I cant work above it since you need 2" space.

Square Eye 05-05-2007 10:57 AM

You need need more ceiling joists for any ceiling to work properly. Add a ceiling joist in between the ones you have now. Then attach them to the rafters with 2x4s A Drywall ceiling is going to be heavy. Make sure you have a good attachment between the rafters and the ceiling joists.

Just a thought, since it is a garage..

You could install a foam board ceiling. Some of it will accept paint. Nothing any more lightweight out there. Easy to cut, light enough and stiff enough to handle.

glennjanie 05-05-2007 11:13 AM

Sorry, I thought it looked like more space between the door and the ceiling joists. The foam board mentioned by Square Eye sounds like a good alternative; ridgid an light weight. If that wold still cramp the garage door or works, you might consider raising one or two sections to clear it.
Glenn

inspectorD 05-06-2007 08:37 AM

Yikes...
 
One issue with foam board is its flammability....sometimes it needs a non-flammable coating or sheetrock over it. Sounds like adding some joists is the best solution...then sheetrock.


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