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Old 06-12-2013, 06:51 AM  
bud16415
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It’s been my experience once you get the clapboards off it’s not too hard to figure out what’s behind the sheathing. You will see the nailing and if the sheathing is rough sawn as most of these old houses are there are gaps and such to poke around with a wire to find fire breaks and if the house is balloon or has plates. You can always easily drill a few holes to see what you have also or to gage how well your walls have filled. I have also seen them putting foam in this way.



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Old 06-12-2013, 08:38 AM  
WindowsonWashington
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+1

If they are old skip sheathing, you will see everything you need to see.

Do not use that drip foam for closed cavities in my opinion. I have used it on a couple of jobs and the results were disastrous in a couple of cases. Much better suited for hollow blocks.

I have yet to use AirKrete but I would love to try it.



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Old 06-12-2013, 10:05 AM  
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The foam they use for closed cavities is deffernt and chemicals can get into house that does not have vabour barrier.

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Old 06-12-2013, 11:11 AM  
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The house was built in the 20's or 30's, i do know it has boards running at an angle behind the siding,don't remember if it was rough sawn or not. There is no vegetation over grown, it was neglected for a lot of years, some since I have lived there. The siding is rotting,not on all places, and the boards behind are also in places, I also have to replace some windows as the wood around them is rotting too. There is nothing between the siding and sheathing, what insulation is there is compacted at the bottom. So let's figure it is a balloon framed house, if I were to do small sections at a time, that should not affect the rest of the house right?

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Old 06-12-2013, 11:27 AM  
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The braces on an angle let into the studs were put there to keep the house square, because the board would not keep there. Plywood or osb on newer house do that job. So you could likey work on half of a side at a time. If the studs are rough cut, any blocking you have to put in if it is balloon will have to be ripped to fit. Hang a tarp first and roll it up above the work area because you know as soon as you open the wall the wind will blow and the rain will come. The area around the windows will likely be the worst and I would start right at one of the worst windows. Depending on what you find in some cases it is easier to change whole sections of wall.

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Old 06-12-2013, 12:30 PM  
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Someone help me understand why this is more difficult than just removing the old and putting new on.

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Old 06-12-2013, 12:57 PM  
bud16415
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It’s not really any harder than doing just that. You mentioned cost so that’s a factor. You will be taking off “X” number of square feet of siding and sheathing and the sheathing will be most likely 1” thick. So you have to look at what will be going back onto get the same build or something less as to sheathing plus whatever kind of siding you will be using to make window trim come out correct. Maybe .5 plywood and .5 foam board. I just bought .5 foam board last night and it was over 10 bucks a sheet.

Money aside it’s just ripping it all off and stuffing in some insulation and putting it back on. Neal pointed out you can do about half a side at a time without worrying about losing structure. Will you be doing soffits and fascia at the same time and or gutters as the type of trim you use up top should match the system you will be using. When its open it’s a good time to add any wiring in the walls also. You may also find some other damage in the walls when open and the perfect time to fix them is when the wall is open.

If you are sure it has to go then I would say just go at it and keep a tarp handy if needed.

Good luck and post some pics once you get started we would love to see the before and after.

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Old 06-12-2013, 12:57 PM  
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It's not but what ever you expect to find when you get there will change, sometimes better and sometimes worse. No one that has done this before wants you to be really surprised when you get there. You will run into problems that are unexpected and there are people here that will offer suggestions on how to solve them. You have suggested some rot, we think "more rot" insects, mold and knob and tube wiring, all things that will have to be addressed when you get there. It may be easy and we hope it is.

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Old 06-12-2013, 01:57 PM  
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I thank all you guys for your help and I was not trying to be a dink,I was getting more confused than before I asked.i will be starting maybe this wknd or next and I will let you guys know how things go. Thank you again.

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Old 06-12-2013, 02:39 PM  
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I also learned of quite a few things I have never heard of before,or would have thought to look up,thanks to you guy's. I appreciate it.



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