DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum > DIY Home Improvement > Insulation and Radiant Barriers > Insulating from the outside




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Old 06-12-2013, 03:19 PM  
nealtw
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Just think of it like, you're working by your self with 50 guys sitting on the lawn watching you while drinking beer.



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Old 06-13-2013, 06:16 AM  
WindowsonWashington
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Keep us posted and plan on taking a bunch of pictures and keeping us updated.

A nice video/picture thread would be great when you get it started.



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Old 06-13-2013, 01:58 PM  
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Originally Posted by monzamadman View Post
Hi everybody, I am wondering what,how I should go about this. I will be tearing off the old siding,and the boards under it and replacing it, I want to insulate the walls while I have everything off. What type of insulation should I use? What about vapor barrier?
After removing the diagonal sheathing boards and cavity insulation, canned foam/caulk any plumbing/wiring holes to prevent insulation R-value loss due to air infiltration/exfiltration. Caulk the drywall/studs/plates joints or if P&L, forget this step. Install asphalt paper-faced batts or poly, do not wrap the wood studs to concentrate any moisture condensation there. Stick the edges of the poly in the caulking, not to the wood studs. A vapor barrier/retarder is required for your location (zone 6 or 7; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_11_par002.htm) as that BSC link brought out; depends on the siding/sheathing perm rating;

"Foil-faced isocyanurate 1 inch thick (R 6) installed over a 2x6 frame wall (R 19) meets requirement #9 in Minneapolis. Therefore, a kraft-faced batt (Class II vapor retarder) is required on the interior of this assembly.

In Chicago where plywood or OSB exterior sheathing is used, an unfaced fiberglass batt can be installed within the wall cavity and gypsum board painted with latex paint (Class III vapor retarder) is required on the interior of this assembly. If this assembly is moved to Minneapolis, a Class II vapor retarder is required on the interior (a kraft paper faced fiberglass batt)." From last page; http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/info-sheet-310-vapor-control-layer-recommendations/info-sheet-310-vapor-control-layer-recommendations/digests/bsd-106-understanding-vapor-barriers/?topic=/doctypes/diges

Caulk under the structural sheathing, on the studs for complete air barrier, tape over the joints. What type of siding? Any foamboard?

Gary
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Old 06-13-2013, 02:38 PM  
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I will post as I make progress.

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Old 06-14-2013, 07:05 AM  
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Here is a before picture.

image-1295793550.jpg

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Old 06-14-2013, 07:09 AM  
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Sorry Gary I just saw your post. We are going with vinyl siding(cost) I was not going to put the foam insulation on the outside.thanks for the links.

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Old 06-22-2013, 11:10 AM  
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Well got started,the insulated part is the addition.boards were not to bad they were 3/4 in and the new is7/16 so I had to tear it off. It appears that there is some of that cellulose insulation in spots and none in others. Have found some patch work.What a mess!

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Old 06-23-2013, 06:27 AM  
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Good progress.

Pull the insulation, seal all the gaps cracks, seal the ribbon boards, electrical outlets, etc.

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Old 06-23-2013, 08:38 AM  
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Not as far as I was hoping get,tearing off was a pain and took a lot longer than expected. Did get as far as insulating and four pieces of sheathing u before it started to rain. Have to add some 2x4s to supplement some half rotten ones. Some spots were worse than I thought and some not as bad. Will add more pics this afternoon.

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Old 06-23-2013, 07:18 PM  
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Well only got two more pieces up today, very sore and burnt from yesterday,had to make a material run also. Then ran into some interesting stuff,see pic.

image-3132639730.jpg



image-1945620419.jpg   image-4077744473.jpg  
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