Originally Posted by monzamadman
Hi everybody, I am wondering what,how I should go about this. I will be tearing off the old siding,and the boards under it and replacing it, I want to insulate the walls while I have everything off. What type of insulation should I use? What about vapor barrier?
After removing the diagonal sheathing boards and cavity insulation, canned foam/caulk any plumbing/wiring holes to prevent insulation R-value loss due to air infiltration/exfiltration. Caulk the drywall/studs/plates joints or if P&L, forget this step. Install asphalt paper-faced batts or poly, do not wrap the wood studs to concentrate any moisture condensation there. Stick the edges of the poly in the caulking, not to the wood studs. A vapor barrier/retarder is required for your location (zone 6 or 7; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_11_par002.htm
) as that BSC link brought out; depends on the siding/sheathing perm rating;
"Foil-faced isocyanurate 1 inch thick (R 6) installed over a 2x6 frame wall (R 19) meets requirement #9 in Minneapolis. Therefore, a kraft-faced batt (Class II vapor retarder) is required on the interior of this assembly.
In Chicago where plywood or OSB exterior sheathing is used, an unfaced fiberglass batt can be installed within the wall cavity and gypsum board painted with latex paint (Class III vapor retarder) is required on the interior of this assembly. If this assembly is moved to Minneapolis, a Class II vapor retarder is required on the interior (a kraft paper faced fiberglass batt)." From last page; http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/info-sheet-310-vapor-control-layer-recommendations/info-sheet-310-vapor-control-layer-recommendations/digests/bsd-106-understanding-vapor-barriers/?topic=/doctypes/diges
Caulk under the structural sheathing, on the studs for complete air barrier, tape over the joints. What type of siding? Any foamboard?