DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum > DIY Home Improvement > Decorating and Design > Bathroom painting




Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 09-09-2010, 06:59 AM  
suzib
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Halifax
Posts: 8
Default

Years ago I painted our bathroom with ordinary paint - it has to be a bathroom paint, including the ceiling because before long the walls and ceiling started to become moldy. I only did it the once and learnt from my mistake.



__________________

[URL="http://www.lumbermart.ca"]Building supplies[/URL]
[URL="http://www.windowsplus.ca"]New windows[/URL]

suzib is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-16-2010, 03:04 AM  
aussierescue
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: sydney
Posts: 1
Default

Don't paint a bathroom, just put tiles over their:-)



__________________

[URL="http://aussiewhitegoodsrescue.com"]washing machine repairs [/URL]

aussierescue is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-22-2011, 03:18 AM  
RandyCena
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Australia, Sydney
Posts: 2
Default Bathroom painting

If you have decided to try painting, the next step will be to sand the tiles. Be sure to sand tiles until the surface is no longer glossy. You should wear a mask to avoid breathing in residue or dust. Eye protection is a good idea, too. Wipe down the surface after sanding to remove all dust.Coat the clean, dry surface with a “bonding primer” or a sealer that resists mold and mildew. Primers and sealers must be completely dry before applying paint. It is best to wait at least twenty four hours before painting.

__________________

[url=http://www.sinksusa.com]stainless kitchen sinks[/url]

RandyCena is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-13-2011, 10:09 PM  
vahomes
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Washington, D.C., Virginia
Posts: 6
Likes Given: 2

Default Bathroom Painting - Excellent Background Info

Reading through some of the posts in the paint forum, I've found comments by Nestor_Kelebay to be far and away the most helpful. This post, in particular, offers excellent background info on proper prep and painting materials. Earlier today I posted a problem I'm having with newly applied acrylic paint peeling and requested troubleshooting help in a hurry for a bathroom painting project that's underway. It would be great if Nestor Kelebay or some other knowledgeable person could please give me some advice ASAP. Thanks much!!!
Charilyn

PS - It seems from below that I must skim coat the entire bathroom wall surface, then prime it, then go back to the Zinsser Permawhite Bathroom paint I have. I looked and it's ingredients are Polymer Acrylic with titanium dioxide, also.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nestor_Kelebay View Post
I think I should clear this up because this is one of the MOST COMMON misconceptions in the painting business.

Latex primers and paints in North America are primarily made from one of two kinds of plastics;
A. polyvinyl acetate, which you probably know better as white wood glue, and
B. polymethyl methacrylate, which you probably know better as Plexiglas.

Generally, budget priced paints and general purpose primers are made from polyvinyl acetate. In the paint industry, primers that use polyvinyl acetate resins as the binder are called "PVA" primers, whereas paints that use polyvinyl acetate resins as the binder are called "Vinyl Acrylic" paints.

Top quality interior and exterior latex paints and fresh concrete primers use polymethyl methacrylate resins as the binder. The wording "100% Acrylic" on a can of paint simply means that the binder resins in it are made of polymethyl methacrylate.

Polymethyl methacrylate resin binders are better at most qualities that make for a good paint except being cheap to buy. The three biggest differences are that:

1. Adhesion is something that's just hard to engineer out of the white wood glue (polyvinyl acetate) molecule, and so primers and paints that use a polyvinyl acetate resin binder will be slightly sticky even when fully dried. The characteristic is called "blocking" and PVA binders are said to have "poor blocking resistance" because dry PVA paints will tend to stick to each other. PMMA (polymethyl methacrylate) primers and paints have good blocking resistance because the dry plexiglas film won't be sticky at all.

2. PMMA (polymethyl methacrylate) primers and paints will stick much better when applied to moist or damp surfaces, and...

3. PMMA primers and paints are much more resistant to water and damp or moist conditions. Budget priced paints that use a polyvinyl acetate resin binder will both soften and lose their adhesion in moist, humid or damp conditions, or when they're directly exposed to rain or water. The result is that the PVA paint film will soon crack up and peel off, and this is commonly misdiagnosed as being due to poor prep work prior to painting.

If a 100% Acrylic paint was used, and you see the paint peeling EVERYWHERE in the bathroom, then there may be reason to believe the problem was poor prep work prior to painting. However, if the peeling is restriced to the upper walls and ceiling of the bathroom, especially the ceiling over the shower area, then there's no question that the problem was the kind of paint used, not the prep work. This is because warm air will both rise and contain the most amount of moisture, so the problems associated with PVA's poor moisture resistance will first show themselves in the moistest areas, which are at the top of the room, and closest to the source of moisture.

If this happens to you, it is NOT necessary to remove the old PVA paint. Simply scrape off any loose PVA paint, skim coat with joint compound to restore the smooth flat surface of the wall or ceiling, prime with any latex or oil based primer and then paint over the old PVA paint with a PMMA paint. The PMMA paint will prevent the PVA paint from getting wet enough to crack and peel.

And, truth be told, it's always best to buy a paint specifically made for bathrooms, like Zinsser's PermaWhite Bathroom paint. That way, not only will you be getting a PMMA resin binder, you'll be getting a PMMA resin that was chosen to be used for bathroom paints because it was more moisture resistant than other PMMA resins. So, you'll be getting a paint that was formulated specifically to be as moisture resistant as possible.

Hope this helps.
__________________
vahomes is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-13-2011, 10:17 PM  
vahomes
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Washington, D.C., Virginia
Posts: 6
Likes Given: 2

Default Can admin cross-post this to the painting forum?

Is it possible to link this post by Nestor Kelebay to the painting forum? I posted earlier today there because I'd reviewed all the info and didn't find answers. Had I seen this earlier (posted in decorating and design), I wouldn't have needed to post such a long request for assistance.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nestor_Kelebay View Post
I think I should clear this up because this is one of the MOST COMMON misconceptions in the painting business.

Latex primers and paints in North America are primarily made from one of two kinds of plastics;
A. polyvinyl acetate, which you probably know better as white wood glue, and
B. polymethyl methacrylate, which you probably know better as Plexiglas.

Generally, budget priced paints and general purpose primers are made from polyvinyl acetate. In the paint industry, primers that use polyvinyl acetate resins as the binder are called "PVA" primers, whereas paints that use polyvinyl acetate resins as the binder are called "Vinyl Acrylic" paints.

Top quality interior and exterior latex paints and fresh concrete primers use polymethyl methacrylate resins as the binder. The wording "100% Acrylic" on a can of paint simply means that the binder resins in it are made of polymethyl methacrylate.

Polymethyl methacrylate resin binders are better at most qualities that make for a good paint except being cheap to buy. The three biggest differences are that:

1. Adhesion is something that's just hard to engineer out of the white wood glue (polyvinyl acetate) molecule, and so primers and paints that use a polyvinyl acetate resin binder will be slightly sticky even when fully dried. The characteristic is called "blocking" and PVA binders are said to have "poor blocking resistance" because dry PVA paints will tend to stick to each other. PMMA (polymethyl methacrylate) primers and paints have good blocking resistance because the dry plexiglas film won't be sticky at all.

2. PMMA (polymethyl methacrylate) primers and paints will stick much better when applied to moist or damp surfaces, and...

3. PMMA primers and paints are much more resistant to water and damp or moist conditions. Budget priced paints that use a polyvinyl acetate resin binder will both soften and lose their adhesion in moist, humid or damp conditions, or when they're directly exposed to rain or water. The result is that the PVA paint film will soon crack up and peel off, and this is commonly misdiagnosed as being due to poor prep work prior to painting.

If a 100% Acrylic paint was used, and you see the paint peeling EVERYWHERE in the bathroom, then there may be reason to believe the problem was poor prep work prior to painting. However, if the peeling is restriced to the upper walls and ceiling of the bathroom, especially the ceiling over the shower area, then there's no question that the problem was the kind of paint used, not the prep work. This is because warm air will both rise and contain the most amount of moisture, so the problems associated with PVA's poor moisture resistance will first show themselves in the moistest areas, which are at the top of the room, and closest to the source of moisture.

If this happens to you, it is NOT necessary to remove the old PVA paint. Simply scrape off any loose PVA paint, skim coat with joint compound to restore the smooth flat surface of the wall or ceiling, prime with any latex or oil based primer and then paint over the old PVA paint with a PMMA paint. The PMMA paint will prevent the PVA paint from getting wet enough to crack and peel.

And, truth be told, it's always best to buy a paint specifically made for bathrooms, like Zinsser's PermaWhite Bathroom paint. That way, not only will you be getting a PMMA resin binder, you'll be getting a PMMA resin that was chosen to be used for bathroom paints because it was more moisture resistant than other PMMA resins. So, you'll be getting a paint that was formulated specifically to be as moisture resistant as possible.

Hope this helps.


__________________
vahomes is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply


Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter DIY Home Repair Forum Replies Last Post
Bathroom Help!!!! Vikeologist Flooring 8 03-10-2012 01:41 AM
Replace pipes in bathroom, need advice Steelmesh Plumbing Forum 2 11-04-2008 07:56 AM
bathroom odour stevelygee General Home Improvement Discussion 5 03-29-2007 08:25 AM
durable flooring for bathroom fixitright Flooring 2 10-05-2005 09:01 PM