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Old 09-08-2012, 08:37 AM  
rfsmith84
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Default Painting tips: Stained pine door with high sun load.

Folks,

My front door is currently stained (Penofin). and gets sun exposure most of the day.

Can some recommend a clear or tinted sealer/top coat for this type of application?
If you recommend a material, can you estimate the life of the material?

Thanks,

Rog Smith



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Old 10-17-2012, 04:34 PM  
notmrjohn
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Which Penofin? Just penetrating stain or finish?
Might as well coat all 6 sides of dorr with most sun resistant, according to label,
Penofin finish in luster of your choice that you feel comfortable paying for.

Generally speaking oil based glossy finishes, several thin coats, applied according to can instructions, ( time and sanding between coats) are more durable, longer lasting protection, but show weathering sooner, due to loosing original gloss. Apply glossy aiming for semi- gloss.



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[CENTER][FONT=Comic Sans MS]Measure twice, cut once.[/FONT][/CENTER]
[CENTER][FONT=Comic Sans MS]Look at the nail, not the hammer. Watch the fence, not the blade.[/FONT][/CENTER]
[CENTER][FONT=Comic Sans MS]If you hook your thumb over your belt you won't hit it with the hammer or leave it layin on the saw table.[/FONT][/CENTER]

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Old 10-17-2012, 04:44 PM  
nealtw
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Are products like this worth looking at?
http://www.wattyl.com.au/WeatherGard/Pages/Varnishes.aspx

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Old 10-18-2012, 09:14 AM  
notmrjohn
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Neal & rf, spar varnish, or marine varnish, is absolutly best for doors. With high oil to resin ratio film is flexible so door swelling and shrinking don't crack finish.

I prefer "real" varnish over polyurethane. That would be one with phenolic resins rather than poly. I prefer alkyd over poly. Most now have combinations. Tung oil based is tougher than linseed, again most have combinations.

Ideal would be a high oil to resin ratio, more tung oil than linseed or other, more phenolic than poly resin, and UV inhibiting additives.

Check can for recommended thinner and ratio for using applicator instead of brush. Using brush can be tricky, poly can be even trickier, you don't apply it like paint, where you basically apply paint then brush it out. You want varnish to flow off wet brush in one stroke. With applicator (folded piece of T-shirt) you thin varnish considerably, ( sometimes 50-50) moistenpad in thinner, dip into varnish, and make long slow wipe. Overlap about half on next stroke. Takes longer, more coats, at least twice as many, but no brush marks and thenner varnish pentrates deeper.

Don't forget top and bottom of door, and inside hinge mortises and handle and latch holes.

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[CENTER][FONT=Comic Sans MS]Measure twice, cut once.[/FONT][/CENTER]
[CENTER][FONT=Comic Sans MS]Look at the nail, not the hammer. Watch the fence, not the blade.[/FONT][/CENTER]
[CENTER][FONT=Comic Sans MS]If you hook your thumb over your belt you won't hit it with the hammer or leave it layin on the saw table.[/FONT][/CENTER]

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Old 10-19-2012, 11:43 AM  
Wuzzat?
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A surface material with a high reflectance/low emissivity will absorb less energy and should last longer because it won't get as hot but it may not be attractive.

If you're at low latitudes an awning may protect your door. At high latitudes I guess the sun is not all that strong.

http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=mtbf+paint&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8#hl=en&safe=off&client=safari&rls=en&sclient=psy-ab&q=mtbf+paint+coatings+poly+varnish&oq=mtbf+paint+coatings+poly+varnish&gs_l=serp.3...20701.25455.1.26122.13.13.0.0.0.2.1367.3943.3j6j1j1j6-1j1.13.0.les%3B..0.0...1c.1.mnuU4NppgVc&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&fp=49973d84b62fd95&bpcl=35466521&biw=1093&bih=757



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