DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum > DIY Home Improvement > Walls and Ceilings > 61" bathroom to 60"




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Old 01-14-2014, 10:17 AM  
bud16415
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I guess I would look at it as to what I have laying around. I always have a pile of edges of half inch plywood stacked up because I can’t force myself to toss a 12 inch x 8 foot piece of 4ply out. But if I had to go buy a sheet to just rip some shim strips off of I would go with the 2X as it’s much cheaper.



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Old 01-14-2014, 12:31 PM  
Wuzzat?
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I finally bought a saw guide and I should have done it a long time ago. Little blocks of plywood will prevent the guide clamps from marring the wood you are cutting.
It's also a great straightedge.

For fine adjustments on your project I recommend shoebox cardboard shims but you may want to waterproof them first.

As to buying a table saw, figure out how much your travel time and convenience are worth and foresee how often you will need to do ripping and crosscuts in the near future.
As a gift I got a Harbor Freight sliding compound miter saw and that comes in pretty handy, too. It brings out the shortcomings of just having a table saw or a circular saw.

As you get better you may want vernier adjustments on your equipment.



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Old 01-14-2014, 05:57 PM  
CallMeVilla
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Guess who got to cut 1 3/8" strips from a 2x6 today freehand with by skill saw? Coincidence but true. Didn't take pics but I did it using the technique I described (above) to create shims for a fireplace trim repair.

So, it CAN be done ... Just remember what they taught you in school: "Stay in the lines."

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Old 01-14-2014, 06:20 PM  
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Guess who got to cut 1 3/8" strips from a 2x6 today freehand with by skill saw? Coincidence but true. Didn't take pics but I did it using the technique I described (above) to create shims for a fireplace trim repair.

So, it CAN be done ... Just remember what they taught you in school: "Stay in the lines."
Every saw comes with a rip fence and if if you are making a narrow cut just start the cut and clamp your finger on the nose of the saw, Your finger can be the fence. Watch out for slivers.
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Old 01-15-2014, 02:49 PM  
swindmill
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I'll probably give a freehand rip a try and see how it goes. I can follow a chalk line fine, but it's easy to move an 1/8 one way or the other when you change your footing as you make your way down an 8' cut.

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Old 01-15-2014, 05:09 PM  
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Clamp a 2X to the plywood to act as a guide.

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Old 01-15-2014, 05:35 PM  
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If you no longer have the rip fence for the saw. Drill a couple holes in the base of your saw and screw a peice of would to use as a fence, make sure it straight with the blade.

rip-fence-1.png   rip-fence-2.png   rip-fence-5.jpg   rip-fence-6.jpg  
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Old 01-15-2014, 05:39 PM  
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If it came with a rip fence, I must have it somewhere. I'll look around for something that looks like it might be it.

It's looking like I will be ripping from 2x6.

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Old 01-15-2014, 07:24 PM  
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Decide which is worse, undersized or oversized.
I hate forcing things or using a plane or sandpaper or a rasp so if you can cut accurately to +/- 1/16" then cut it 1/16" undersized and shim and caulk.
No one can hit it perfectly, especially in this application.

Also, you can easily make a cardboard mockup.

In general, make your marks with an Exacto knife rather than a pencil or pen. The accuracy can only get worse from your mark.

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Old 01-15-2014, 07:31 PM  
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Quote:
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Decide which is worse, undersized or oversized.
I hate forcing things or using a plane or sandpaper or a rasp so if you can cut accurately to +/- 1/16" then cut it 1/16" undersized and shim and caulk.
No one can hit it perfectly, especially in this application.

Also, you can easily make a cardboard mockup.

In general, make your marks with an Exacto knife rather than a pencil or pen. The accuracy can only get worse from your mark.
With a fence you cut one peice, if wrong toss it adjust the fence and keep cutting.
In this case a little big would be fine.


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