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voyager 01-06-2014 07:52 PM

Closet wall is bowed convexI have begun to install shelving in the closet of a bedroo
I have begun to install shelving in the closet of a bedroom that is being used as my computer, office, personal and what ever room.
I'm installing battens on the back and end walls to support the shelving.
The closet is 8' wide and will, in effect, be a walk-in cupboard.
Once you get above the outlets in the back wall of the closet, there is only 1 stud at the center of that back wall other than those at the corners.
Yeah, about 4' of unsupported sheet-rock on each side.
Between the corner on one side and the stud at the center of the wall, the sheet-rock bows out[in?], leaving a gap of about 3/8" between the shelving and the wall. The other side is reasonably flat.

Is there a quick-and-dirty way to draw the wall out so that it will be flush with the back edge of the shelving?

nealtw 01-06-2014 08:01 PM

Welcome to the site. Is this an inside wall and how big are the battens?

voyager 01-06-2014 08:09 PM


Originally Posted by nealtw (Post 98170)
Welcome to the site. Is this an inside wall and how big are the battens?

Thanks for the welcome.
It is an interior wall between the bedroom closet and the utility room with an electrical panel and water heater on the other side. The breaker panel is mounted in the wall on the same side as the bowed portion in the closet.
The battens are 1 X 2's screwed to the sheet-rock using anchors where studs do not back up the screw locations.

nealtw 01-06-2014 08:26 PM

One trick comes to mind is to cut a slot in the wall big enough to slide a 2x4 behind the drywall and screw into it thru the drywall. You would need about a 2" slot and and use a couple screws for handles to place and hold while placing other screws. fill the slots or hide them with larger battens

voyager 01-07-2014 06:58 AM

After thinking about this over night, I'm coming of the opinion that I may just fill the gaps on the back edge of the shelves with spackle.
What with the breaker panel right behind the wall's bowed portion, the potential for interference from electrical wiring inside the wall is high.
Plus, with the plumbing for the water heater inside that wall also, it's interior is more complex than I had originally thought.

Thank you for your suggestions nealtw.

nealtw 01-07-2014 07:07 AM

Scibe and trim the back of the shelf to fit the wall??

Wuzzat? 01-07-2014 08:18 AM

3/8" is probably normal. Possibly if you do nothing the eye may not be drawn to this (nobody will see it unless you point it out).

voyager 01-07-2014 09:42 PM

Mostly, it affronts my sensibility of having done a good job. But, I'm not going to tear the wall out and rebuild it to fix it. Nor am I going to worry about it anymore. The shelves are in and the gap is still there.
As my galfriend said: "You're the only one that's ever going to see it, and only if you ever empty the shelves off, which you never will."
She's got a point.

Now, I can empty out all the boxes stored in the garage so that I can begin setting up to add a work area where they're sitting: work bench, shelving, drawers, cupboards, etc.

nealtw 01-07-2014 10:32 PM

Well it certainly looks real nice from here, good job.;)

Drywallinfo 01-08-2014 09:17 AM

Well, if you finds that what you have bugs you, split the difference and make a 3/16" gap at each corner. Insert a tiny bit of shim material at each corner as well to the shelf sits tight to the shim. I don't think anyone would notice 3/16".

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