RipTheJacker

Ok i refuse to pay some guy 1000 dollars to do something I know I can do with effort(a lot of it). I'm going to post pics of areas i don't know what to do at. Pardon the furniture in some of the pictures.



Right here this stud is coming away from the frame. I can't hammer it back because of the nails in the way so should I just remove it and replace it with a stud of exact size? Explain what places to nail stud to if so.




Here tthe bottom stud in the first column is missing a piece. I don't know if it is intentional or not. And the stud in the second column is slanting as it gets to the bottom. What should I do here? A tutorial on how to sister or replace studs would be nice. I can't find one by searching google.



I'm afraid to take of the most upper pieces of lath from the all my walls because I'm afraid of damaging the ceiling? Should I just try to wiggle it loose as carefully as possible?

inspectord or anyone willing to help please be as detailed as possible. I suck at this

inspectorD

What did you dooo??? No problem, you can fix it.
This looks just like a typical old frame job. No issues, exept that porcelain knob and tube wiring. You need an electrician to remove it and install new wiring in those areas you can get to for now.
The framing, you can remove the loose stud, it is a nailer for the plaster or Sheetrock. Remove the nails and reattach it. Simple.
The stud that is short , add one on to the leg and attach it with more nails. Usually two 16 penny nails every 16 inches will do. Your not rebuilding the framing, just shoring up what is there a bit.
The plaster at the ceiling can be cut out with a grinder, or a chisel and hammer. It has the wire lath in it also. Just get it so it is straight then fir ir out to the thickness of the plaster,then the Sheetrock will get cut to fit, then add some mud and tape.

Someone framed in a window and covered it up. Not a big deal, just make sure nothing is falling down , or not supported, then add some 2x4s to give it support where needed.

I think you need to take a minute and go to the library for a free book on old ballon framing. Just to get the basics down. It will help in the long run.

That and some more experience. Which you are getting all the time.

Anyone else want to help the guy out?

Share.

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spaz2965

A lot of the old time framing is done that way. Like the inspector said the studs that don't go the whole way to the floor sister a stud next to it. As for the wireing looks like house has already been re-wired so I would let the old porcaline tubing there but would get rid of the wire as it looks like that has already been done. Are you gutting the whole house, or just your exterior walls so that you can get insutation in them? You may go over the pr-existing interior walls with 1/4 drywall and it will save you alot of mess, you may also do this to your exterior walls, and to insulate drill 2"-3" holes at the top between each cavity, the go to lowes and rent the machine and blow in insulation between cavities. If you buy 15 things of insulation you get the machine for free, you will still give deposit but get that back when you return, Note: if you don't uses all 15 bags of insulation return them after you return machine. Hope some of this helped an other questions you may send me a personal message and I will help further.

Joe~~

spaz2965

Question to you Jack. How did you post your pictures? New member here do I not have enough post so I can't?

RipTheJacker

Spaz, I posted my pictures by uploading them to a site called photobucket.com. Just register and upload your pictures there and the site will provide you with a link to post here that will display your pictures.


Also, I'm having a friend who knows a lot more about this to help me with my room so I should be done in a couple weeks

inspectorD

That's what real freinds are for.
Just some advice, do as much work as you can yourself, that way you stay freinds.

Good luck, we'll still be here.

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RipTheJacker

some studs are 3 1/2 inches thick which is fine but some one wall has studs that are 4 1/2 inches thick. Do they sell insulation 4 1/2 inches thick? Does insulation expand to fit the space?

inspectorD

They sell 2x6 studs you can rip down to 4 1/2 inches.
The insulation will be ok as long as you do not compress it.Compressed fiberglass looses insulating R value when it gets squished. Basically it uses air trapped in the fibers to insulate the wall. Fiberglass will expand to the 4 1/2 inches if you buy for 3 1/2 inch wall.
Good luck.

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RipTheJacker

Just bought the drywall today. Carrying it is exhausting. Before I buy the insulation I just want to clarify what you said inspectorD. You said I can get the insulation that is 3 1/2 inches thick and place it in between all of my studs because it will expand? I also have a few more areas of concern. The spaces between my studs vary drastically. Some gaps between studs are as big as 23 inches and the smallest gap is probably around 7 inches. Will there be a wide enough strip of insulation(Batts I believe they're called) to fill this gap or is it ok to put 2 batts together to make it wide enough? Actually after searching I see the batts do come wide enough but it will be difficult choosing what size I get them in since the spaces between my wall studs varies so much. I might have to buy two different sizes so I don't have too much left over insulation. Should I get faced or unfaced batts? what's the difference? Thanks

inspectorD

You have it all figured out.
Just as you said, you have different widths of insulation. Some for walls where the studs are 16 inches apart, and others for 24 inches apart. Count what you need and go buy it.
The fiberglass will only expand slightly, and you need to buy the thickness deep enough for the wall. If you have 4 1/2 inch thich walls , go for the next size down always. That would be for a 3 1/2 inch wall. Don't buy insulation that is thicker than the wall.
As far as the vapor barrier goes, get the stuff with Kraft faced paper.
Basically any insulation with the facing on it will be fine. The facing always goes toward the heated space where you are. So it will be on the inside.

As far as the rest, cut to fit. Use a board to set on the insulation as you cut it, follow the board. Buy a good utility knife and change the razor blade as you need to.

I always wear long sleeves and gloves. Also a pair of goggles and paper respirator will help.
Use some fabric softerner to remove the fiberglass on you when you are done, and yes, take a cold shower first, so your pores do not open and let the fiberglass under your skin.

Have fun, no one likes insulation.

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