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Old 05-15-2013, 12:54 PM  
drewdin
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Default sheetrock and plaster question

I have some guys Sheetrocking my house right now, i noticed in one section they didn't end the 8' board on a stud, it was about 9" past a stud. They put a 3"x4" piece of strapping behind it and seemed it to the next piece.

Just a broad question, is there ever a time where you would extend the end of the sheetrock and connect it to the next piece as listed above? I'm trying to see if i am flipping out for a good reason. Thanks

Ill take some pics tonight and post them



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Old 05-15-2013, 01:02 PM  
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The only time I've seen a pro doing it was when he was doing the filling to or depending on the length of the sheets and the wall they may be saving one joint. I don't see a problem.



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Old 05-15-2013, 01:52 PM  
drewdin
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i feel better, i have always been told its not the right way to do it but I wanted to make sure.

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Old 05-15-2013, 02:02 PM  
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We do that with plywood on the gable ends of a roof.

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Old 05-17-2013, 06:04 AM  
bud16415
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I personally don’t like seeing a sheet end not on structure. I have seen it done though.

I’m in the process right now of getting my kitchen ready for drywall and it being a 100 year old house that had wood lath and plaster nothing is on 16” centers. I am furring everything out to correct for flatness and in many places adding structure for the sheets to end on.

If I was going to extend a sheet with a free floating piece as a backer I think I would use something like a wider strip making it from .5 plywood and then glue the joint along with the screws.

I tend to be more critical of what a pro does compared to a DIY homeowner when it comes to stuff like this. Drywall is purely cosmetic so if it looks good in the end that’s what counts, that and if it stands up to time.

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Old 05-17-2013, 06:54 AM  
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Unless the strapping is the full length of the joint (4 inches x 4 feet)not a good idea in my opinion. I have not seen it done like that before.

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Old 05-17-2013, 07:49 AM  
drewdin
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My house is also from 1927, the studs range from 11 - 17" apart and nothing is flush or even. I had to furr out every wall nook and cranny but i bet i missed a ton. I know it will never be perfect.

the part where the end did not hit a stud was on the bottom of the wall and there was a full sheet above it. I'm wondering if he did it this way due to the stud spacing and to keep the seams staggered. The seam was under the full sheet and in the middle of it.

I went after he was done for the day and the top piece was not installed yet. I also wonder if he was trying to do it without me seeing it, that's why i got so mad.

It looks like he ran the strapping up to the full sheet an attached it also. I was pushing on it last night and it was pretty solid.

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Old 05-17-2013, 09:14 AM  
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Drew, simply ask him about it and what happens if there is a failure at some point. Will he then come back and fix it? Ask him in a non threating manner and just voice your concern and see what his response is before you let emotions get involved. Just my

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Old 05-17-2013, 09:42 AM  
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Some outfit even sells a special board for doing this watch the video.
http://www.contractortalk.com/f49/butt-splices-working-great-64775/index5/

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Old 05-17-2013, 10:52 AM  
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I guess if you are going to use one then the butt board would be the one to use. I understand the concept but it seems if the framing is correct and the seams are falling on structure you would have to cut your sheet short to have the joint off the structure to use one.

Back to the OP’s question if the 9 inches made it so a full sheet could be used to complete the run and without the 9 inches he would have had to piece in another joint at the end then I can see why you would do this. If he could have as easily chopped the 9 inches off and still needed a full piece to cut to finish then it’s not too logical.

Another reason I might consider it in an old house with rough sawed framing that stud might have been slightly out from the rest. Breaking the sheet there may have shown a ridge where splicing it in the middle of the span might have eased it around the high spot. I was doing the same thing last night with my furring strips. Even though I was shimming here and there in an old place sometimes you have not look at a level and go with the lay of the land. I took one down where I didn’t like how the end landed and moved it over 32” to get that bend over the high spot. The eye will see a sharp transition but a gradual one will look ok.



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