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Old 04-18-2013, 07:41 PM  
nealtw
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They have some strange building practices. Besides that, the black stain on the sheeting looks like mold and should be tested. The blocks in the soffet vent area should not be there, unless you just have them there while it's open. The 8x8 hole was a roof vent, I hope they replaced it with a ridge vent, which you should be able to see from below thwe center. If you really want to fix the hole in the sheeting, Cut a 2x6 to the length of the distance between the trusses and nail a 7x7 peice of sheeting to it, slide it into place and nail thru the trusses to hold it in place. The lack of vapour barrier is just as bad as the ice dam for causing the mold in the attic and yes you need fire rated drywall.
While you have it open throw in another stud on each side of the door and then at door knob height put a block between those studs and the next studs, that will keep the strangers out when your not home.



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Old 04-19-2013, 12:53 AM  
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http://www.photocal.fr/features_-_photocatalyst_photocal.html

That product pretends to control mold and mildew. I don't know for that product but in the house, I had pulverised all the area, the attic, the walls, the floor with a specific product used with a machine for that that I had rented at Home depot. Here's the link: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Concrobium-1-Gal-Mold-Control-Fogger-200-620810/100489874#.UXDpgbWQVmM

Should I test the area? If it is recommanded to do that, what is the process? Can I do it by myself?


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Old 04-19-2013, 05:36 AM  
nealtw
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HD has a home test kit. It sure wouldn't hurt to know it was good before closing it up.

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Old 04-19-2013, 10:44 AM  
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Thanks, it will be a reason for another trip to HD. I will test it and be back with the result in few days.

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Old 04-19-2013, 11:57 PM  
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If I use Roxul product insulation,

http://www.roxul.com/products/residential/roxul+comfortbatt

that is fire resistant, do I need gyproc?

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Old 04-20-2013, 04:46 PM  
nealtw
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Where I live you do?

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Old 07-02-2013, 06:32 PM  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nealtw View Post
To be on the safe side you could drywall first and then cover it with pine. If the rafter are a 24" on center, 5/8 drywall would be required.
It's 16" on center, so is the drywall would be 5/8 or thinner?
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Old 07-02-2013, 06:38 PM  
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I think TX drywall is 5/8 and it is rated for 1 hour of fire stop.

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Old 08-10-2013, 11:58 AM  
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That looks bad with the black mold. It's funny how they say osb board is suppose to be mold resistant. It always seem to have the mold in a house. Have you been having allergy problems?
There is no fixing that, it needs to be taken out. Or sell it, but you could be sued!
As for the pine wood, i would mention a couple of things, 1) it can be heavy so your structure might not support it. I would chose a veneer. 2) Some people can have wood allergies too, something to think about before you wood your whole house.

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Old 08-11-2013, 12:21 PM  
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That looks bad with the black mold. It's funny how they say osb board is suppose to be mold resistant. It always seem to have the mold in a house. Have you been having allergy problems?
There is no fixing that, it needs to be taken out. Or sell it, but you could be sued!
As for the pine wood, i would mention a couple of things, 1) it can be heavy so your structure might not support it. I would chose a veneer. 2) Some people can have wood allergies too, something to think about before you wood your whole house.
As I said before, I used a product with the machine for that purpose that is suppose to treat the mold. There is no odor in the house. It seems that the product did the job. Of course there is still the black color on the OSB, but no more mold. So, why replacing it? As I understantd, it could be a problem if it wasn't treated but it's not the case.

For the t and g pine, I want to use a very thin product, just 5/16, so it isn't heavy, not much than the gypse. Actually, the gypse isn't 5/8, I think it is 3/8, so I imagine I can use 5/16 pine...


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