DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum > DIY Home Improvement > Walls and Ceilings > Walls & ceiling problems & advices




Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 04-18-2012, 05:51 PM  
CallMeVilla
Contractor
 
CallMeVilla's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,247
Liked 379 Times on 297 Posts
Likes Given: 154

Default

Improperly applied drywall tape will do what you see. An insufficient bed of compound will allow the tape to bulge and separate. It does NOT necessarily mean a structural flaw in the condo. Remove and reapply the taping. A 1/4" gap is trivial for a drywaller but does show sloppy craftsmanship. Condos are not always the most carefully constructed buildings.

Cannot speak to the truss issue without good pictures. I often add collar ties to truss and rafter framing in attics just for extra safety (call me an overbuilder).



__________________
CallMeVilla is online now  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-18-2012, 09:06 PM  
condoowner
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 135
Liked 6 Times on 6 Posts
Likes Given: 10

Default

Mmmm yeah so.. I hope there are no framing issues as its going to get more complicated and $$$$$$$$$$

In the meantime I will see when we are getting the framing looked at, but Ill slowly start the tape job. First timer here, any step by step procedure?

Any good tutorial? I feel comfortable to try but Id like to start right. Same for the tiling job I did last summer. I was a 1st timer too, and I asked here on Houserepair talk and got veryu good advices so I could do the job extremely well.

So I need something like:

1- scrape off all lose stuff,
2-apply mud blablabla
3-apply tape while.....
4- mud again,
5-let dry.
...
You get the idea.

Anybody with teaching skills here? Care to share?



__________________
condoowner is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-18-2012, 11:16 PM  
nealtw
Contractor
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: vancouver, b.c.
Posts: 9,723
Liked 796 Times on 710 Posts
Likes Given: 1355

Default

Anything loose wants to be removed. When you use paper you want to squeeze the compound and make it flat on the wall. As you won't have a flat wall I would use mesh tape that you stick on first. When filling, don't put to much on and smooth it out with the tool, don't leave it for sanding. Allow to dry and justs scrape off the highlites and use a bigger spachula on each coat. On the corners it is easier to finish one wall first and then do the otherside when the first is dry. The off angle corner between wall and vaulted ceiling will be bear, don't beat yourself up to bad, the pros have trouble with that one too.

__________________
nealtw is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-19-2012, 10:00 PM  
nealtw
Contractor
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: vancouver, b.c.
Posts: 9,723
Liked 796 Times on 710 Posts
Likes Given: 1355

Default

Vila: "I often add collar ties to truss and rafter framing in attics just for extra safety (call me an overbuilder)."
If you want to overbuild trusses, just tell the truss company to design it for a house at the highest ski hill you can think of. You will be adding 500 feet of 2x4s and none of them will be coller ties.

__________________
nealtw is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-20-2012, 04:51 PM  
CallMeVilla
Contractor
 
CallMeVilla's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,247
Liked 379 Times on 297 Posts
Likes Given: 154

Default

Good point @nealtw but I was referring to the many remodels I encounter where the weight loads in the attic are troublesome. I just add structure where needed as a safeguard.

__________________
CallMeVilla is online now  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-21-2012, 08:45 AM  
joecaption
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Hartfield VA, VA
Posts: 1,361
Liked 38 Times on 33 Posts
Likes Given: 2

Default

It would be best to use this type of tape instead of reguler paper or webbed tape for those angles.
http://www.straitflex.com/

It has a backing in it that holds it straigher, it's just as easy to install as reguler drywall tape, it will span any of those gaps instead of leaving a bulge.

__________________
joecaption is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-21-2012, 04:32 PM  
Workaholic
Lifetime Supporting Member
HRT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 26
Liked 3 Times on 2 Posts
Likes Given: 4

Default

Remove the loose stuff and anything that will contaminate your mud, big gaps should be prefilled, might want to drive some screws into the boards to make sure everything is nice and tight. I would stay clear of mesh for the corners as it does not crease into a nice line like the paper does. tape and apply three coats of mud, sand, prime and paint.

__________________
Workaholic is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-23-2012, 01:52 AM  
condoowner
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 135
Liked 6 Times on 6 Posts
Likes Given: 10

Default

Mmmmmm ive hit the problems jackpot ... the mud job is going just fine but since a day or 2, I am hearing strange cracking noises in my bedroom. No jokes intended here.

First night it started it was not very loud but nevertheless I could hear an intermittent noise. Couldn't really figure where it was coming from.. then last night, I woke up and the noise is louder, more rapid and this time I could pinpoint the source if it.

You see, the electrical wires (the main building power, phone and TV cable,) are attached to the building on the exterior wall just outside of my bedroom. When they swing ( due to wind) they make the wall crack. I can clearly hear this if I stick my ear on the wall next to where they are attached.

What the h*** to do whit this?

That's enough for me not to sleep, and anybody else will be the same..

?!??! ....

__________________
condoowner is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-23-2012, 07:32 AM  
nealtw
Contractor
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: vancouver, b.c.
Posts: 9,723
Liked 796 Times on 710 Posts
Likes Given: 1355

Default

I will make a couple guesses you can check into.
These power lines are on the gable end of the building, they are attached to the side of a truss.
When the trusses are installed, bracess are added on top of the bottom cord of the trusses. They look like and are often called catwalks. They are put there to hold the trusses at 24" on center and hold the outside wall straight. These braces should be no further than ten feet apart. The one closest to the wire may have broke loose or one more is needed.
At the center of the gable end truss an angle brace is installed from near the top of the trusse down to the catwalk, on really tall trusses more than one is needed to stop the wind from flexing the truss. If the wires are mid way up on a high truss you may need another angle brace just for keeping that part of the truss stiff.

__________________
nealtw is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-23-2012, 08:31 AM  
condoowner
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 135
Liked 6 Times on 6 Posts
Likes Given: 10

Default

The power lines are not tied to the building near the roof, but rather about mid-way between the floor & ceiling of the second story. You see this building has 2 condo units stacked on top of each other's. The first unit occupy the basement (below grade) and first floor, and my condo on top occupies the second floor (my first floor) and the third floor (my second floor). The lines are tied to the exterior wall right about my height (5ft 7in) from my bedroom floor. From my bedroom window, I can see the lines and where they tie to the building.

There is a separating wall (to separate from the other condo) that happens to be one of my bedroom's walls. The power line ties about where both walls (the separating wall & outside wall) are merging. The lines might in fact be tied exactly where the separating wall is. Not sure but visually its pretty close. Last thing I will do is use a tape to measure where the lines are located. I don't want to "ride the lightning!!"

I have a small balcony on the second floor. When I stand on that balcony, I stand way above the lines. They are far from the roof & trusses.. Whatever is going on there, I think its getting worse since its now preventing me from sleeping well... A few days ago I thought it was my bed which was squeaking. The noise seemed to be coming from the mattress (you know when you move sometimes you can hear the springs moving back or the wood frame moving a bit), but last night, it was obvious it was coming from the wall where the lines are tied. Hard to describe, I keep saying "its like a squeaking noise" but in fact its more like an irregular vibration noise, kinda like a lose anchor in concrete.. anyways the noise matches exactly the movement of the lines from the wind..

Tonight I will post some pics from outside and inside. You will get a better appreciation of the configuration.



__________________

Last edited by condoowner; 04-23-2012 at 08:35 AM.
condoowner is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply


Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter DIY Home Repair Forum Replies Last Post
old lumpy walls and ceiling frogholler Walls and Ceilings 1 11-09-2010 05:10 PM
Ceiling or walls...which first? handy Walls and Ceilings 1 01-06-2010 07:49 PM
new walls and an old ceiling learning Walls and Ceilings 6 10-17-2008 07:18 PM
Asbestos in walls and ceiling? FearfulOfAsbestos Walls and Ceilings 12 12-27-2007 11:01 AM
Wood walls and ceiling Mudball Carpentry and Woodworking 4 06-02-2006 04:55 PM