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-   -   Is this a weight bearing wall? (http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f109/weight-bearing-wall-16546/)

coachgeo 09-21-2013 02:38 PM

Is this a weight bearing wall?
 
3 Attachment(s)

pictures attached are of home and a closet before and after initial tear down.

Closet is in addition to original home built in the 60's. While it does not make since that this wall is weight bearing to me...... it does have a header. So could it be part of what holds up the roof of the addition? Nothing but rafters above it? Neither the original structure or the addition have a ridge beam.

Chimney in the outside picture gives a hint of location of closet. It is against the original structures outer wall (now an interior wall) You can see brick/block chimney in the picture of closet w/sheet rock removed

Don't want to tear out wood construction with out making sure it's not weight bearing.

Tiny Wood Heater/Stove will go in what picture shows as interior of closet; but all of that I hope to remove. SS liner going into the old chimney that was originally for an oil furnace. Appears that after furnace removal the box around it was converted to a closet except for a box around the chimney. I want look of ruff/old thus the desire to keep chimney exposed. Eventually may add faux rock on the chimney to match era of log siding to be done on interior/exterior. Will be Amish look of flat side honed log and chinking.


coachgeo 09-21-2013 02:38 PM

Is this a weight bearing wall?
 
3 Attachment(s)

pictures attached are of home and a closet before and after initial tear down.

Closet is in addition to original home built in the 60's. While it does not make since that this wall is weight bearing to me...... it does have a header. So could it be part of what holds up the roof of the addition? Nothing but rafters above it? Neither the original structure or the addition have a ridge beam.

Chimney in the outside picture gives a hint of location of closet. It is against the original structures outer wall (now an interior wall) You can see brick/block chimney in the picture of closet w/sheet rock removed

Don't want to tear out wood construction with out making sure it's not weight bearing.

Tiny Wood Heater/Stove will go in what picture shows as interior of closet; but all of that I hope to remove. SS liner going into the old chimney that was originally for an oil furnace. Appears that after furnace removal the box around it was converted to a closet except for a box around the chimney. I want look of ruff/old thus the desire to keep chimney exposed. Eventually may add faux rock on the chimney to match era of log siding to be done on interior/exterior. Will be Amish look of flat side honed log and chinking.


coachgeo 09-21-2013 02:38 PM

Is this a weight bearing wall?
 
3 Attachment(s)

pictures attached are of home and a closet before and after initial tear down.

Closet is in addition to original home built in the 60's. While it does not make since that this wall is weight bearing to me...... it does have a header. So could it be part of what holds up the roof of the addition? Nothing but rafters above it? Neither the original structure or the addition have a ridge beam.

Chimney in the outside picture gives a hint of location of closet. It is against the original structures outer wall (now an interior wall) You can see brick/block chimney in the picture of closet w/sheet rock removed

Don't want to tear out wood construction with out making sure it's not weight bearing.

Tiny Wood Heater/Stove will go in what picture shows as interior of closet; but all of that I hope to remove. SS liner going into the old chimney that was originally for an oil furnace. Appears that after furnace removal the box around it was converted to a closet except for a box around the chimney. I want look of ruff/old thus the desire to keep chimney exposed. Eventually may add faux rock on the chimney to match era of log siding to be done on interior/exterior. Will be Amish look of flat side honed log and chinking.


CallMeVilla 09-21-2013 03:32 PM

1 Attachment(s)

If you can access the attic area above the closet, you can easily determine if the framing is BEARING. If the framing runs parallel to the ceiling joists, the wall is not bearing, it is called a partition wall.

I see a typical double top plate framing and a third stud (new) to fram out the closet opening. Makes me think this is just a built-out closet.

If the framing runs perpendicular to the joists, it might be bearing. You will often see a header or a larger structure to support the upper weight. You will also see doubled 2x4s on the ends, sometimes 4x4 and a 2x4 to carry the weight down to the foundation. In your pciture, I see single stud framing attached to the double top plate, again suggesting this is a partition wall.

Oh, and if your single story house is built with trusses in the attic, the interior walls typically will not be load bearing either. That geometry carries the weight to the outside walls.

Can't wait to see what your attic search shows you!


CallMeVilla 09-21-2013 11:16 PM

1 Attachment(s)

NO, you cannot remove the rafters. You can frame your vaulted ceiling up to the rafters then inmstall collar ties to stabilize the rafters. You will have to insulate and cover the rafter bay. Think of the vaulted ceiling in just the bedroom as you might a light shaft for a skylight ... only larger and no roof penetration. It requires localized framing.

If you cut out the ceiling joists to create a clear space, you will have to reframe support around the cutout section to create the open space for the vaulting.

Look here for some ideas: http://blog.armchairbuilder.com/6051/vaulted-ceiling-precautions/


coachgeo 09-22-2013 08:31 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by nealtw View Post
Thanx...... yeah that is the one and others similar I found the most informative. As that shows...... 1/3 the way up from typical joist location (x in the drawing) is what I mentioned earlier where one would put the new joist (collar tie).

Attachment 5522

Good thing is that Sandwiching AKA doubling collar ties allowing for every third. I had forgotten about that.

Attachment 5521

I wonder if it would allow for going every 4th or 5th rafter if you did an even stronger collar tie say double like shown as well as boxing in with another board on top and bottom. Followed by a triangulation to top of wall a little to each side; to spread this stronger collar's affects on the outer wall, This would be to my advantage cause it would look way less busy up there in that small space with less collar ties. I think my joinst are 18" on center........ a bit over kill. Also I want to loft a tiny sleeping loft in a portion of that cathedral space so those joist will be strengthened turning them into floor beams as well. Loft would basically center on the the *outer wall of original structure resulting in loft sitting with 1/2 of it above the addition and 1/2 above the original structure. It would be about 8" deep (red in picture)........ so yeah tiny. Could add header into walls of orginal structure to make them more "structural" and less divider walls to increase ability to hold up loft.

* in this case outer wall of original structure refered to here is now also an inner wall inside of addition


Attachment 5525

I've already looked and it appears I have a ridge board but not a ridge BEAM nor POST inside the wall too the foundation. (pier and beam foundation)

Attachment 5523


Moderator.......... feel free to dissect out the discussion in this thread on cathedral/vaulted ceiling and start a new thread with it.

coachgeo 09-22-2013 08:31 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by nealtw View Post
Thanx...... yeah that is the one and others similar I found the most informative. As that shows...... 1/3 the way up from typical joist location (x in the drawing) is what I mentioned earlier where one would put the new joist (collar tie).

Attachment 5522

Good thing is that Sandwiching AKA doubling collar ties allowing for every third. I had forgotten about that.

Attachment 5521

I wonder if it would allow for going every 4th or 5th rafter if you did an even stronger collar tie say double like shown as well as boxing in with another board on top and bottom. Followed by a triangulation to top of wall a little to each side; to spread this stronger collar's affects on the outer wall, This would be to my advantage cause it would look way less busy up there in that small space with less collar ties. I think my joinst are 18" on center........ a bit over kill. Also I want to loft a tiny sleeping loft in a portion of that cathedral space so those joist will be strengthened turning them into floor beams as well. Loft would basically center on the the *outer wall of original structure resulting in loft sitting with 1/2 of it above the addition and 1/2 above the original structure. It would be about 8" deep (red in picture)........ so yeah tiny. Could add header into walls of orginal structure to make them more "structural" and less divider walls to increase ability to hold up loft.

* in this case outer wall of original structure refered to here is now also an inner wall inside of addition


Attachment 5525

I've already looked and it appears I have a ridge board but not a ridge BEAM nor POST inside the wall too the foundation. (pier and beam foundation)

Attachment 5523


Moderator.......... feel free to dissect out the discussion in this thread on cathedral/vaulted ceiling and start a new thread with it.

coachgeo 09-22-2013 08:31 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by nealtw View Post
Thanx...... yeah that is the one and others similar I found the most informative. As that shows...... 1/3 the way up from typical joist location (x in the drawing) is what I mentioned earlier where one would put the new joist (collar tie).

Attachment 5522

Good thing is that Sandwiching AKA doubling collar ties allowing for every third. I had forgotten about that.

Attachment 5521

I wonder if it would allow for going every 4th or 5th rafter if you did an even stronger collar tie say double like shown as well as boxing in with another board on top and bottom. Followed by a triangulation to top of wall a little to each side; to spread this stronger collar's affects on the outer wall, This would be to my advantage cause it would look way less busy up there in that small space with less collar ties. I think my joinst are 18" on center........ a bit over kill. Also I want to loft a tiny sleeping loft in a portion of that cathedral space so those joist will be strengthened turning them into floor beams as well. Loft would basically center on the the *outer wall of original structure resulting in loft sitting with 1/2 of it above the addition and 1/2 above the original structure. It would be about 8" deep (red in picture)........ so yeah tiny. Could add header into walls of orginal structure to make them more "structural" and less divider walls to increase ability to hold up loft.

* in this case outer wall of original structure refered to here is now also an inner wall inside of addition


Attachment 5525

I've already looked and it appears I have a ridge board but not a ridge BEAM nor POST inside the wall too the foundation. (pier and beam foundation)

Attachment 5523


Moderator.......... feel free to dissect out the discussion in this thread on cathedral/vaulted ceiling and start a new thread with it.

coachgeo 09-22-2013 08:31 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by nealtw View Post
Thanx...... yeah that is the one and others similar I found the most informative. As that shows...... 1/3 the way up from typical joist location (x in the drawing) is what I mentioned earlier where one would put the new joist (collar tie).

Attachment 5522

Good thing is that Sandwiching AKA doubling collar ties allowing for every third. I had forgotten about that.

Attachment 5521

I wonder if it would allow for going every 4th or 5th rafter if you did an even stronger collar tie say double like shown as well as boxing in with another board on top and bottom. Followed by a triangulation to top of wall a little to each side; to spread this stronger collar's affects on the outer wall, This would be to my advantage cause it would look way less busy up there in that small space with less collar ties. I think my joinst are 18" on center........ a bit over kill. Also I want to loft a tiny sleeping loft in a portion of that cathedral space so those joist will be strengthened turning them into floor beams as well. Loft would basically center on the the *outer wall of original structure resulting in loft sitting with 1/2 of it above the addition and 1/2 above the original structure. It would be about 8" deep (red in picture)........ so yeah tiny. Could add header into walls of orginal structure to make them more "structural" and less divider walls to increase ability to hold up loft.

* in this case outer wall of original structure refered to here is now also an inner wall inside of addition


Attachment 5525

I've already looked and it appears I have a ridge board but not a ridge BEAM nor POST inside the wall too the foundation. (pier and beam foundation)

Attachment 5523


Moderator.......... feel free to dissect out the discussion in this thread on cathedral/vaulted ceiling and start a new thread with it.

nealtw 09-22-2013 08:50 PM

1 Attachment(s)

We did one that looked more like a vaulted truss when it was done. The joist ran from the wall on one side to about half way on the opposing rafter, looked good and worked well for insulation and venting. There was an engineer involved.



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