danR6

Thanks again woodchk. Amazing how easy it is to procrastinate when the thing works so well after defrosting. (yes, i've now done this 3 times.)

I have repeatedly tested the heater element for heat by turning the timer dial until it clicks. Spliced wires and jumped the thermostat with no luck.

Picked up an ohm meter and pulled the heater element to check continuity (two easy to remove push on connectors) - There is NO current across the two connections on either side of this element (as in, the needle doesn't move as it does when I place the probes on two ends of my screwdriver.) I know this may seem incredibly dense, but I'm not sure what "resistance" and "infinity" means in reading the instructions for these measurements (or what I'm looking for if the reading is supposed to be inbetween.)

I'm assuming my heater is ok w/ "zero" reading, but please advice if otherwise.

Minor question: I don't want to leave the refrig turned off while I run to the parts place... will it run if I remove the timer? (I want to take the part with me to match.) Otherwise, I may just take my chances with the serial number and a visual check.

woodchuck

The needle should move when you touch the ends of the heater element. If you don't get a reading like you do on the screwdriver then element is bad.

Everything should continue running when heater elements are taken off.

danR6

Thanks, I haven't pulled the timer yet. In fact, I stopped by the parts place yestrday to check if they had the part in stock and got the same smarts about what this "zero" reading means with the heater element. (I understand the terms "open" and "closed" circuit, but resistance, infinity... I guess if I understood how the heater element actually uses the current, I might have a better visual concept in my mind.)

Great, so I pull the heater today and replace...

And I'm sure there is more ice build up again... we'll see if I get away without another manual defrost! (i'll report back in a day or two.)