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-   -   Glasstop range burner problem (http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f11/glasstop-range-burner-problem-5975/)

naikdars 01-25-2009 04:35 PM

Glasstop range burner problem
 
We have a Kitchen-aid glass top electric cooking range. The front right burner has stopped working, the other three burners seem to work fine. What do you guys think is the problem.

Is it the heating element? Is there a fuse or something for each burner. How difficult is it to replace the heating element? Where can I buy the element?

woodchuck 01-25-2009 08:17 PM

With a really bright light you can see through the glass to see it the if the element is burned into.
Plug you model number in at this site to see your parts and diagrams for most models.Appliance Parts From PartSelect | Repair Parts For Major Appliances

Or google appliance parts for more to compare prices.

I've replaced mine twice and it's not hard. May be instructions with parts.

applianceman 03-27-2009 08:45 PM

It can be the burner and you may be able to check it like woodchuck said but the switches go bad a lot more often on glass tops. To check the burner first disconnect power then remove the back of the range to access the back of the switch. Once off, look at the back of the switch to the burner thatís not working. You should see two wires marked H1 and H2 remove them. Then using an ohmmeter see if you have continuity between the two wires that you just removed. If you do the burner is ok, replace the switch.

Hopfauf 08-18-2014 11:49 AM

Either Woodchuck or applianceman, maybe you could help me w/ this... I took the advise of using the ohmmeter and checking the continuity, thus found it was the burner to be replaced. I just ordered a new one. Pulled the burned one and saw the burned spot. Only problem I have is to ensure I re-connect the wires on the on the switchbox. I disconnected three of the wires including a red one now w/ re-connecting I forgot which go to which port. The particular switchbox for this burner is different than the other 3 which are accurate to the wiring diagram on the manual that came w/ the stove. H1 and H2 don't exist and the two ports which I need to re-connect correctly are not in the position as shown on the diagram either. The red wire labeled RFP2 and second brown wire labeled RF2, (these go to the right front burner), are labeled as R2 and BR10 on the manual diagram and go to the L2 and H2 positions. The actual positions on the switchbox that they must go onto are the P1 or 2 plugs. I'm guessing the red wire, (RFP1), connect onto the P1 plug and the Brown wire, (RF2), connect onto the 2 plug. Does that sound correct?
Thanks for any assistance you can give. The Kenmore range was purchased through Sears, but once the warranty expires, they offer no advise and answer no questions.
Rick

Wuzzat? 08-18-2014 04:12 PM

Post a link to the spec's for the new element you ordered.

jeff1 08-19-2014 07:00 AM

Hi,

Didn't take a picture before you pulled off the wires?
Wire diagram missing from the range?

Range, make, model#?
Part# you ordered?

jeff.

CallMeVilla 08-19-2014 09:43 AM

This is a relatively easy fix. If you are lucky, you can remove the element then simply reposition the connectors from the old to the new. If not, you may have to cut the wires to the burner and wire nut the new unit. This needs to be done with ceramic wire nuts. However, the actual replacement process is easy ... just lift the top, remove the bad unit, replace the unit, reattach the top.

Here is a video I found that can show you how ...


Wuzzat? 08-19-2014 01:04 PM

There's not that many combinations of a two or three terminal element hooked to a two or three terminal switch, but some combos may short the switch and so it's ruined. I'd recommend fusing your first attempt but sizing these fuses can be a problem.
And with 'infinite controls' you need more than a voltmeter to tell you the whole story.

Hopfauf 08-19-2014 06:01 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Jeff 1, Nope. I thought it was an easy thing to remember, but took this picture after just in case. The red wire on the right hand side and the brown top center are the ones in question of possibly not being in the right spot.
It is a Kenmore P/N 316218510 (0303), or 790.92683300? The manual that came w/ it isn't clear which sets of numbers is the part number for list of parts or model number.

Wuzzat? 08-19-2014 09:10 PM

If you measure a non-zero and non-infinite resistance between two terminals with the control knob fully on, it is probably the equivalent of L2 & H2 on this diagram.
http://www.google.com/search?q=%22infinite+control%22+schematic&client=s afari&rls=en&tbm=isch&imgil=2ffWq3pL7hCaBM%253A%25 3BDFd8wakmeuWiVM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww. bhahk.com%25252Fenergy-regulators-infinite-controls.html&source=iu&usg=__8l9CsGb0WiXtP-oRzJN6u6_wPCA%3D&sa=X&ei=DhH0U43PPM_ksATMlIHoAg&ve d=0CCEQ9QEwAA&biw=1321&bih=780#facrc=_&imgdii=_&im grc=e2kC8teiRnPpSM%253A%3BbTSt6GhHZpbPDM%3Bhttp%25 3A%252F%252Fwww.electrical-forensics.com%252FElectricRanges%252FInfiniteSwitc h%252FSchematic4-Hi.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.electrical-forensics.com%252FElectricRanges%252FElectricRange .html%3B900%3B600
This resistance heats the bimetallic strip. It might read around .02 ohms.

With a dozen or so ohmmeter measurements the switch shown can be completely characterized.

I recommend you do these measurements with your new switch with the control fully on and off.


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