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Old 06-18-2008, 07:24 PM  
PaulMin
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Respect the saw or it will bite you. Hold it firmly in your hand(S). It might be the loudness in the small room making you uneasy. Take your time and think about what your doing and where the blade is and every part of your body, before you pull the trigger.



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Old 08-29-2009, 05:36 PM  
shan2themax
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So, it is more than a year later and I have yet to finish this.....
Although, I did buy a new blade and it is working much better than the old one. I think i am going to borrow/buy a sawzall so that I can get as close as I can to the left edge of the room. I have gotten a much larger piece cut off today, so... hopefully on Monday I will have the sawzall and can finish cutting up the wood and go and buy my plywood.

I know that I need to put better bracing for the floor down... what I was wondering was if I need 2 put a whole new 2X?8 down all the way across teh house or if I can attatch a new one to the sill and come a few feet past the commode and then put cinderblocks under it for support?

and..... as you can tell from the other pieces of floor joist that are split, I need to replace those also. How close will I need to come to the drain for the commode and get good support? (Keep in mind, I am a big girl, and have big children)

and I will be glad to get this project done and before this time next year... this is embarrassing!



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Old 09-01-2009, 04:47 PM  
glennjanie
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Hello Shan:
It looks like the plumber originally cut a joist into when he put in the closet bend . If you can get a piece of 2 X 8 on each side of the pipe going across the loose ends and nail them into the remaining joists on each side, then nail through the new ones into the loose ends that are showing you will have plenty of support. You may have to knock out the short 2 X 8 blocks that are in there and are cracked anyway, then cut the loose ends back a bit to allow your new closet flange to fit unobstructed.
It is sometimes necessary to cut the floor out with a 1" or 1 1/2" chisel to get right up to the wall. OR if you can take the shoe completely off your circular saw, hold the guard up and really manhnadle the saw, you can cut on a slight angle right up to the wall.
Please be very careful in that tight place with any electric tool.
Glenn

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Old 09-01-2009, 05:48 PM  
shan2themax
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Thanks for the reply Glenn!

Today I went out and bought a reciprocating saw. I think that it will get as close as I need to get.

I was thinking that I could put a another 2X8 with the existing one... I just wasnt sure if I needed to put blocks under them or not. So, I could theoretically get rid of the shorter 2X8 if I can fit 2x8's on either side of the plumbing?

Sounds like it would be the easier thing to do... but as I have said in the past. I dont mind to work hard on it... esp if I only have to do it once... lol

I am going to go back there in a few minutes and see what I can accomplish. I hope to at least get the floor cut up so that maybe I can go get the rest of the stuff before I have to go to work on Friday....

I will take a closer look at all the 'things' that are down there, I know that there is a runoff right under neath there and some copper pipes on the left hand side wall and then of course, the drains for both commodes. I'll let you know

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Old 09-01-2009, 07:34 PM  
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Ok, so I hope that my drawing isnt too confusing.... I removed a little bit of the floor this evening, and then I was looking at the 2x8's and I was wondering how effective putting the short ones (new) back would be due to the fact that there are two copper water lines against the left rear joist.

There is too much of the toilet drain hanging over the left side of the lower joist in order to sandwich it in on both sides with 2x8's and there are also alot of cinderblocks under the next floor joist (you cant see it, on the right)along with some electrical (hvac) and drain pipes....

so, probably the easier thing to do is to put the 2 short joist back... but then again, I will have to notch the out in order to allow room for the copper pipes. Is that ok to do?


and can I just say.... I am absolutely in low with my recipricating saw.... If i had only known it would bring so much happines.... lol

half-bath-flooring.jpg  
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Old 09-03-2009, 10:46 AM  
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Hello Shan:
The joist on the right can be cut off another 1 1/2" to allow the short joist to by-pass it and yes, you can notch out for the copper pipes. The blocks that are there now will give down to the center, wheras a new short joist on each side, from long joist to long joist will bear more weight.
Hey, nice drawings!
Glenn

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Old 09-03-2009, 01:02 PM  
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Thanks Glenn... I enjoy doing the drawings, it simplifies things for me and helps me understand what it is I am doing.....

I used to do some desktop publishing in my life before nursing!!!

So, here is another 'pretty picture' with what I think is the solution.... Now why couldnt I have thought about that??????

You are always so helpful!!!

ps... do they make brackets to help hold this stuff together? Or are really long screws enough to hold it?

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Old 09-04-2009, 10:42 PM  
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Thanks Shan:
Yes, screws will do the trick. All your fastening points will be open and straight through so, it should hold very well. With the copper pipes involved you couldn't use a joist hanger in that one location.
I have lived through several situations similar to that and it now comes natural to me. I'm glad to help someone else because I don't get to do the work anymore.
Glenn

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Old 10-20-2009, 01:22 PM  
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Wow some of these are like a soap opera or long running t.v. show of some kind. Don't keep us waiting. What happened next ? Did you get it done & what was the big surprise- last year ?



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