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FreeStuffRockz · 12-06-2008, 07:24 AM

On man duane1982 that's really bad!
I am def going to pay the $500 for an engineer
I think it is well worth that because it is very important it is fix right the first time.
fantastic advice thank you so much

FreeStuffRockz · 01-03-2009, 08:41 PM

Ok the contractor has told me that I should put a small partition wall about 2-3 foot in between the windows for added support. My problem is I have two big windows: see pix. My front door & the two windows are on that wall & I am afraid that it will not look good at all to put up a small wall there? Do you guys have any other ideas that I could use to make this look right if I do put a wall there? Maybe put in a small coat closet, built in book shelves there or something that has some reasoning behind it to make the room look better? I am planning on either new carpet or hardwood floors to match the rest of the house. I really need ideas here I don't want to make this room look bad it is the main focal point of this house. The room is like 23 x 21 any ideas from you builders out there would be greatly appreciated.

**inspectorD** · 01-03-2009, 10:36 PM

Support for what? To catch the beam? For racking or movement of the building?

FreeStuffRockz · 01-03-2009, 11:16 PM

The contractor says even after the new beam is in ( $3200.00- 5 days of work ) I may need to put in a small support wall under the beam. He said that side is cut so the beam will sit on the wall & it is not the full beam over the wall because of the angle it has to be cut? I do not know anything about roof support at all so all I can do is go by what he tells me? I said well I would rather put a small office/library room in as apposed to just a small 3 foot wall sticking out there floating with no purpose. He said I can not add a wall there unless there is a steam SP? wall under the house? Does that sounds right?

The 2-2x4's are the temporary support under the beam until I get it done.

**inspectorD** · 01-04-2009, 07:10 AM

Not being there I can not for sure give you definite answers. But the contractor can have an angle cut on the wood and still have it will carry the weight. What did the engineer suggest as the maximum angle you can have? Also, I don't see why you cannot have a post against the wall about 6 inches out down to the foundation.This will help with the depth of the angle. We do this all the time at roof intersections. Depending on how thick your wall is, 10 inches? if you have a 2x4 wall, there is about 6 inches left. There is no need for a stem wall in the basement. A post in a wall you build 12 inches out would cover that. The most you would need is a footing in the floor.
You could also open the existing wall up to accomodate the beam being installed lowerso it does not even interfer with the roof, why did he not think of that? Is he afraid to cut the top plates? it is done all the time. Get some more advice over there looking at it.An engineer is best. The contractor sounds as though he is covering all the bases, but there are alternative solutions he may not be thinking about to hear what the customer wants.

Having it work out for everyone is the best solution.

FreeStuffRockz · 01-04-2009, 07:52 AM

great advice I will definitely get a second opinion on this.
BTW I have a crawlspace & no basement under my house.
He said the engineer suggested the 2-3 foot wall. I don't think I should settle on this guy doing the job he seems to be a bit unsure of himself?

I had three other opinions so far on what I should do only two are contractors:

1. Had one person tell me I could just replace the one beam that is failing & it would be cheaper & hold just fine do you think that is true?

2. I had yet another person tell me I could just re-enforce the beam with a Steele plate & it would hold fine.

3. The insurance adjuster said that it is a sister system & the other beam should hold just fine & I shouldn't worry to much about it. (This one seems ridiculous to me other wise why have 2 beams if only one is needed?) The rate it was cracking I would say that is really bad advice.

Thank you for all your help I really appreciate it.

**inspectorD** · 01-04-2009, 02:44 PM

Again , I'm not there seeing everything. But a post will work against the wall instead of a 2-3 foot wall.
The steel plate idea is ridiculous, it will not work in my opinion. You already have wind issues, you don't need other ones.
Get your own engineer. make some calls and see who makes you feel comfortable, and comes up with your solution. There are so many different things that can be done ,you do not need a wall. There are brackets which can be fabricated, which would be as much as installing a wall and finishing it.
The crawl space is not an issue unless you have no acess. You can always install a pier to hold this beam wherever you want. You could install an 8x8 or bigger post where your temporary one is, it would look massive and be a conversation piece and still make it look good.
Look around.

FreeStuffRockz · 01-04-2009, 02:52 PM

ok great thanks for all your help I really do appreciate it.

**inspectorD** · 01-04-2009, 08:08 PM

I still think just letting it into the existing wall by lowering the beam would be cheapest to do. Remove the beam, cut the wall down to make it fit under the rafters, done. Why has no one suggested it?
Good luck.

FreeStuffRockz · 01-05-2009, 09:40 AM

That is a great question. If it was done that way would a temporary wall still have to be built? Do they have any other way of dong it like say a jack system or anything like that? I don't know anything about it. He told me if would take 5 days to build a temporary wall & install the fabricated beam. I am calling around today to get new estimates too.By the way the beam is 7' 9" from the floor. I think you have a great idea that would work well & saving me money is always a good thing lol