[drewdin]

I used the 1/4" today and it was much easier to use. do you recommend screws or roofing nails along with the modified thin set? Thanks

[Jaz]

Hot-dipped roofing nails work great, are faster, and cheaper too.

Jaz

[CallMeVilla]

I bought a used inexpensive Skil Saw ($20) and fitted a masonry cutting blade ($4) ... Draw your line and zip it off. Done. MASSIVE DUST ... wear goggles, ear protectors and dust mask.

For cutting holes for toilets ... 4" grinder with a diamond blade ... works like magic to sculpt the hole precisely.

TAH DAH!

[drewdin]

I tried using the roofing nails and three bent before they went into the hardiebacker. I ended up using the screws

[nealtw]

There is a screw made for that stuff.

[Jaz]

Originally Posted by drewdin

I ended up using the screws

And which screws would that be?

Originally Posted by CallMeVilla

I bought a used inexpensive Skil Saw ($20) and fitted a masonry cutting blade ($4) ... Draw your line and zip it off. Done. MASSIVE DUST

I highly do not recommend doing that. Pallet on garage floor near door, Hardie on pallet, 4"grinder with diamond blade, just score Hardie, no need to go all the way. Have a fan run behind you blowing dust out. Mask & googles would be nice and recommended.

Jaz

[drewdin]

I used the scoring knife and the Hardiebacker screws)

I do have a separate question on how much compression there should be between the hardie board and the subfloor? Using the 1/4" trowel would leave a 1/4" of space but using the screws it pulled it tight when the heads went flush with the board.

What is the proper way or better, how should I properly set the hardie to the subfloor using modified thinset and screws? I'm securing the 1/4" in a few days, i am going to try to use the roofing nails again as my thoughts are that since it is thinner the nails wont bend, they might actually go through the board.

Thanks guys

[Fireguy5674]

Friend of mine does a lot of tile and he uses a roofing gun to secure the hardboard to the floor. Much faster and cheaper than screws.

As far as the space between the board and the floor goes if the board pulls tight to the floor that is fine. All of the thinset will not leave as there is no place for it to go. Just try to set the board in the thinset evenly so you maintain a flat surface for the floor. The thinset under the board fills any voids where the floor is not perfect and adheres the board to the floor so when you apply tile the board will not flex or move. Movement is what kills tile, cracks ext.

[drewdin]

Thanks for the info, i have a framing nailer, i wish i had a roofing nailer! I am going to try to use the roofing nails I have with a hammer, I'm kind of a ocd perfectionist so I will probably flip out trying to make sure everything is level with every hit. wish me luck!