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-   -   Hardwood floors and glue (http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f13/hardwood-floors-glue-511/)

TxBuilder 03-14-2006 05:37 PM

Hardwood floors and glue
 
I want to rip out the carpet in my living & dining room this Summer and install hard wood floors. I'm going to be living there for awhile so I am going to go solid hardwood and not laminate.

I've helped a guy install laminate and he glued it to the slab. Is it the same for hardwood floors or can you not glue them? Do you have to put a barrier between the wood and slab besides glue, assuming you can glue them?

inspectorD 03-14-2006 05:53 PM

wavin
 
You need a vapor barrier or your floor will curl up and die.
As far as gluing it to concrete it may stick in some places but you would have a helluva time changing it in the future.There are some floors that float on a pad that do hold up to thaffic, they just cost more.
Buy the time you put in a subfloor for your woodfloor and raise a few doors and your baseboard if needed, you would have paid for it.

I always like to take the approach, will I pay for it upfront and get what I need ,or go on the inexpensive side and end up with MORE work.:D

Show me the money!!
InspectorD

Square Eye 03-14-2006 07:13 PM

We no gluey the woody to the floory.

Laminated flooring doesn't have the same expansion and directional grain issues that solid hardwood has. InspectorD pegged it with the vapor barrier, subfloor, hardwood,, in that order.

TxBuilder 03-14-2006 07:23 PM

Is the vapor barrier a product that comes in sheets like plastic or is it a type of liquid/paste product?

Generally what is the subfloor made from? Just a sheet of plywood or such?

Square Eye 03-14-2006 07:55 PM

A vapor barrier could be a paint-like product, but I would probably use whatever the flooring manufacturers recommend. This will keep you from voiding any warranty. If there is no warranty, I would use a plastic sheet, the heavier the better. There are other products available and I have seen plain old black builder's paper (tar paper) used. I like plastic because the laps do not stack up enough to show through the floor and if the liquid application fails, how would you ever know before pemanent damage was done?

The sub-floor does not have to be framed up. Sheets of OSB subfloor grade with a tongue and groove, fasten down with concrete fasteners like Tap-cons would be good. Tap-cons require a hole be drilled through the sub-floor into the slab, then the screw taps it's own threads right into the concrete with minimal surface damage. Hardened concrete nails cause the surface to bust and you lose that much contact/gripping area on your fastener.

Tx, InspectorD and I may have to do a road trip this year to see some of these projects. If we do, we'll have to come down there and see your stuff nd maybe you can go with us from there.

I want to be Moe, but I'm afraid I'm a Larry. Who will be Curly?Shemp?

TxBuilder 03-14-2006 09:10 PM

Your welcome to come over. All the home brew you want LOL. Just moved into this house. Been researching, planning and saving then I'm going to use my built up vacation all at once and take 3-4 weeks off to do all the projects.

Mike Costello 03-15-2006 04:40 AM

Im guessin the product you helped your buddy glue down was and Engineerd Wood Poduct. Thats is plank made with layers like plywood and a real wood veneer finish on top.

When someone says laminate I automatically think a Pergo like product.

But if you glued a laminate down there is gonna be a failure. Laminates are designed to be floating.

Engineered on the other hand is designed for just an installation as yours. It can be nailed stapled or glued. In some cases with some brands it can be floated too.

Have a reputable LOCAL flooring dealer come to your site and give an assesment . Even if you plan on doing the install yourself a professional is the best person to decide which product is right for you and the best application. Moisture tests will need to be performed to determine if wood is a viable floor for you.

TxBuilder 03-15-2006 12:56 PM

Thanks for the advice Mike I will contact a local flooring dealer to come out and estimate the work first. How do they do moisture testing? Do flooring contractors have electronic equipment or is that something I could do myself somehow?


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