ToolGuy

It's hard to tell from a photo, but whatever you do can be sanded. That's why they call it Easy Sand.

After it's dry, scrape off the ridges and high spots as best you can before applying the second coat. You can use a course sanding sponge or 80 grit sand paper wrapped around a wood block to get it smooth. If you go through the primer and expose the brown paper, touch it up before applying the second coat of mud (technical term )

If you get the second coat smooth enough you might be able to use a wet sponge to finish it, but that takes a bit of practice. You might be better off sanding the second coat with 100 grit paper or a medium sponge.

Later!

__________________
[COLOR="DarkRed"][B]~ ToolGuy ~[/B][/COLOR]

[I]Save money on tools at [URL="http://mytoolbox.net"]MyToolbox.net[/URL]
[/I]

SeanH

The best primer in the world is Guardz. I would highly recomend this over kilz or anything else. This will allow you to float any uneven areas without any moisture issues. If you would like to save time on making the walls smooth you might want to look at a product like Weathered Stone.
http://www.weathered-stone.com

ToolGuy

Quit selling you f**ing product to our guests. Have you ever heard of this thing called respect? And if you're going to offer advice, at least know what the hell you're talking about. Guardz is water based and will cause the paper to blister.

__________________
[COLOR="DarkRed"][B]~ ToolGuy ~[/B][/COLOR]

[I]Save money on tools at [URL="http://mytoolbox.net"]MyToolbox.net[/URL]
[/I]

student001

Hello,

I am preparing the walls and ceiling of a room for a smooth finish with eggshell/semigloss paint on top. After sanding, I notice I saw streaks left by the sandpaper. Does a coat of primer on top cover those scratch marks? Or Do I need to spray a light texture on top? Appreciate any help!!

Thank You

inspectorD

Just take a damp sponge or cloth and smooth down any sanding marks. Then primer and you should be ok. If not you can get some light filling putty and it should take care of it. Good luck.

__________________
Just My
Made in the

booft

haha

Dude you are awesome, I run around this site reading up a ton of things, and Im always surprised by the level of respect you have for new people starting out. Just reading this thread (and the above quote) made me a little more knowledgable (Ive always wanted to work on an old house) and get a couple chuckles in too.

__________________
[url=http://www.learnhowtoplaster.com] Learn How To Plaster[/url]
Run By Plasterers For Plasterers
Time Served Spreads Ready To Help

ToolGuy

I'm normally pretty cool headed, but sometimes these spammers bring out the worst in me. But I'm glad you got a kick out of my little outburst. I did too.

__________________
[COLOR="DarkRed"][B]~ ToolGuy ~[/B][/COLOR]

[I]Save money on tools at [URL="http://mytoolbox.net"]MyToolbox.net[/URL]
[/I]

ToolGuy

I see those scratches left behind quite often and always makes me think poor workmanship cuz they didn't bother to smooth it out. I usually follow up sanding with a finer grit (100 or 120) before calling it done. A fine to medium sanding sponge works well for this purpose.

What inspectorD suggests, using a damp sponge or rag, also works well, and doesn't create yet more dust. Don't get it too wet though or you'll replace the scrath marks with swirl marks. Primer and a couple of coats of paint do tend to fill in the finest scratches, but better to make sure it's smooth before priming.

__________________
[COLOR="DarkRed"][B]~ ToolGuy ~[/B][/COLOR]

[I]Save money on tools at [URL="http://mytoolbox.net"]MyToolbox.net[/URL]
[/I]

4redwood

If what you ar doing , is consuming so much time ,and energy simply do yourself a favor ,buy some 1/4 inch 12 ft sheets and rock the whole thing tape tex and be done with a surface completely blemish free .