DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum > DIY Home Improvement > Flooring > New Bathroom Tile - Cementboard for Tile - Keep Linoleum?




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Old 02-26-2013, 12:15 PM  
Jaz
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How about drilling a small hole? Or removing the stair nosing and look at the edge of the floor layers. How about a floor air register? You're looking for a thin ply over the subfloor.

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Old 02-26-2013, 12:25 PM  
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Thanks. The house is 90 years old, and the reason I suspect that the tile is on the subfloor directly is because the flooring in the hallway is just simple pine flooring that we had refinished, directly on the joists, and the bathroom floor is level with that flooring. The bathroom is on third floor, formerly was attic space but was converted into dormer bed and bath. I suspect the bathroom was installed in 70s based on the previous decor and discoloration of vinyl floor.



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Old 02-26-2013, 01:15 PM  
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You need to know the type and size of the joists, spacing, unsupported span. Their species and grade will be a big help too. Thickness and type of subfloor and any underlayment over it. Vinyl flooring is not installed over the subfloor, but who knows?

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Old 02-26-2013, 01:30 PM  
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Find a spot that will be hidden with the new vanity and and cut a hole in the floor.

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Old 02-26-2013, 08:10 PM  
Jaz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nealtw
Find a spot that will be hidden with the new vanity and and cut a hole in the floor.
You mean like this in post #11?
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Originally Posted by Jaz
How about drilling a small hole?
Manbehidthecurtain, In post #1 you called it "vinyl floor". Then you said you were removing just the top and the foamy back was not coming out. This means the flooring is cushioned sheet vinyl. Later you called it vinyl tile. Now I'm confused too.

Have you looked and found any 1/4" thick ply yet?

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Old 02-27-2013, 06:29 AM  
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Haha, sorry my vocabulary isn't very exact with this stuff. To clarify, definitely vinyl sheeting, with a thin foam backing (that is incredibly stubborn to get off). I curse the former owners every time I look at it. I haven't had the opportunity to do any drilling or cutting during the week- I'll take another stab, literally, at it on Saturday morning.

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Old 03-01-2013, 07:30 PM  
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The cheapest and easiest way to go is to just put thinset on top of the vinyl and install backer over top. Get the real stiff backer board (like Hardie Backer) and it will do okay over the "sag" - just use enough thinset to provide a level surface. Screw the backer down (use screws made for backer board!) then install your tile. Your vinyl isn't all that thick anyway. The alternative is to pull up the subfloor, lay down 3/4" plywood over the joists, and then the backer and tile. More work and more expense, but will give you a "perfect" job. As Fire said, it will get everything straightened out. One thing to think about is; what are you doing with the rest of the house? There isn't much sense to spending as lot of extra time and money to make one room "perfect" if you don't make the rest of the house match. Don't hear me wrong - I DO NOT advocate doing a cheap or sloppy job. I'm just saying that the thinset and Hardie backer should do you just fine.

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Old 03-05-2013, 05:30 PM  
manbehindthecurtain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dthornton View Post
The cheapest and easiest way to go is to just put thinset on top of the vinyl and install backer over top. Get the real stiff backer board (like Hardie Backer) and it will do okay over the "sag" - just use enough thinset to provide a level surface. Screw the backer down (use screws made for backer board!) then install your tile. Your vinyl isn't all that thick anyway. The alternative is to pull up the subfloor, lay down 3/4" plywood over the joists, and then the backer and tile. More work and more expense, but will give you a "perfect" job. As Fire said, it will get everything straightened out. One thing to think about is; what are you doing with the rest of the house? There isn't much sense to spending as lot of extra time and money to make one room "perfect" if you don't make the rest of the house match. Don't hear me wrong - I DO NOT advocate doing a cheap or sloppy job. I'm just saying that the thinset and Hardie backer should do you just fine.
I'm leaning in this direction. frankly we don't use the third floor much, and I don't want to get in over my head. Other considerations are what to do with the radiator in the bathroom that might not reach its plumbing once the floor is raised up, as well as whether the toilet will fit back on the flange once the floor is up around it. Any thoughts there? Radiator will probably have to be taken care of by plumber who moves the drains for the tub to the other side of the room, and am hoping there are extenders for toilets on the market?
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Old 03-09-2013, 05:49 PM  
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They make extra thick toilet bowl gaskets with the rubber grommet (not sure the technical term for this) for the toilet. That will work as long as you aren't raising it up too much above the flange. You are right that a plumber should take care of the radiator (although it's not all THAT complicated, a mistake here could cost you big time). The plumber can also reset the toilet for you (and make sure it's right). It's worth the few extra dollars you'd pay him to have it done correctly (and , a reputable plumber will guarantee his work). Just remember, you're saving a ton of money by doing the floor yourself.



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