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-   -   Oak floor buckling (http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f13/oak-floor-buckling-12675/)

pstew96 12-02-2011 12:33 PM

Oak floor buckling
 
I got a toe kick saw from Harbor Freight, then I cut one wall about 3/8 because it was flush up against it, does anyone think I also need to cut a groove between the three rooms to create a 3/8 expansion area under the door thresholds? What do I cover it with after I cut it? I saw some putty at HD or brass metal strips. Also, how do I get the buckeled areas to relax back down?

oldognewtrick 12-02-2011 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pstew96 (Post 64599)
I got a toe kick saw from Harbor Freight, then I cut one wall about 3/8 because it was flush up against it, does anyone think I also need to cut a groove between the three rooms to create a 3/8 expansion area under the door thresholds? What do I cover it with after I cut it? I saw some putty at HD or brass metal strips. Also, how do I get the buckeled areas to relax back down?

What type of flooring is it? Is it free floating or nailed down?

samfloor 12-02-2011 05:54 PM

Is it hardwood, engineered or laminate?

pstew96 12-05-2011 06:53 AM

So its oak flooring thats been squeezed into three rooms with no space for expansion and where a certain someone left a dog bowel of water in two places is buckling. I bought a toe kick saw and started cutting between the wall and floor in some places, but now how do I get the floor to utilize the space I just created? The water was about 3 months ago and I have been running a de-humidifyer since and getting little water collected. I cannot tell whether its nailed or glued as I fear I will really make a mess if I pull up a plank or two. Maybe I can put something really heavey on the bulge to get it down?

joecaption 12-05-2011 07:11 AM

As we have suggested many times, not going to happen, now that the glue bond is broken or the nails have been pulled there's nothing to hold it down.
If there's traped moisture under the floor mold is going to if it has not already set in.

pstew96 12-06-2011 06:45 AM

what if I use a concrete nail gun just to push the floor down now that I have created space between the wall and floor, or, drill a hole and inject glue then nail it down? I would like to avoid a big take it apart production.

joecaption 12-07-2011 05:45 AM

Ha it's your floor do what you want to, then get back to use and let us know you have given up and are ready to fix it right.

EZHangDoor 12-07-2011 06:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pstew96 (Post 64749)
what if I use a concrete nail gun just to push the floor down now that I have created space between the wall and floor, or, drill a hole and inject glue then nail it down? I would like to avoid a big take it apart production.

Once it's swelled, it's highly unlikely to shrink back. The boards push apart once they expand, the gaps are permanent. If they buckle or curl they won't lay flat again either.

pstew96 12-07-2011 06:49 AM

So, I took my circular saw and tore down the middle of one plank, what I found was, no moisture and that pink paper with particle board base with staple type nails in it from the board I just removed. My question is, is it possible to force down the twisted oak planks with screws or nails before I replace the one I chopped out? Also, as it seems like a very tight install, I have in some places I used a toe-kick-saw to releive the presure, but certain spots are difficult to access so I ignored those, rooms are a little irregular. Also, do I attempt to releive presure at the door thresholds as they go accross room to room without a break(as there are small bulges in all the rooms).

isola96 12-07-2011 10:09 AM

This is part 2 from prior thread posted?!?...
Tongue and grove floor bucking up....
The piece(s)s need to be changed out or the section since the ends were cut with no space the dog water dish combination of the 2 things here created this problem.


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