DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum > DIY Home Improvement > Flooring > Real Wood over Vinyl




Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 11-01-2010, 09:51 AM  
brubakes
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Medina, OH
Posts: 3
Default Real Wood over Vinyl

One of the projects my wife and I want to start is wood floors in the kitchen, dining room, front all, and front 1/2 bath. Right now the dining room is carpet and the rest is all builders grade vinyl flooring.

Do I need to pull up the vinyl before setting the wood down? Can the vinyl act as a moisture barrier?



__________________
brubakes is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-16-2010, 07:03 AM  
juan_us2
Banned
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5
Default

Hello, I think you can pull up the vinyl before setting the wood down.
Hope this will help you.
Thanks!!

___________
Fire Cement



__________________
juan_us2 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-16-2010, 10:37 AM  
samfloor
Carpet Installer
 
samfloor's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Buckner, Missouri
Posts: 202
Liked 16 Times on 13 Posts
Likes Given: 4

Default

I guess you know that it is not recommended to use wood or laminate in bathrooms. Moisture can ruin it. In fact most mills won't warranty it if used in bathrooms.

__________________
samfloor is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-16-2010, 10:41 AM  
samfloor
Carpet Installer
 
samfloor's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Buckner, Missouri
Posts: 202
Liked 16 Times on 13 Posts
Likes Given: 4

Default

Are your floors wood or concrete slab?

__________________

[url]http://www.flooringforum.com/forum/[/url]


(AKA Floorist, Rusty Baker)

samfloor is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-17-2010, 08:35 PM  
gmicken
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Chestertown, Maryland
Posts: 44
Default

I have done this many times. There are a few things you should know. Hardwood floors are 3/4" thick. Engineered floor varies in thickness. I have installed hardwood in a kitchen,dining room, living room and hall. We had to raise the base cabinets and countertop. You need to remove the vinyl and the 1/4" under it. You need to have all of the subfloor at the same level. We had to raise the base cabinets because the dishwasher would not fit under the counter top with the 3/4" floor. The 1/2 bath does not have a shower or tub. You should not have a problem with the warranty, check with the manufacture before buying anything. If you install 3/4" hardwood install rosin paper (red paper) to stop squeaks. Engineered floor needs a pad or roll of what ever the manufacture requires. In the bathroom, when you remove the hopper, use a new wax seal and the correct thickness for the floor you put in. If you are going with the engineered floor, I have finnished many a floor for people that just can't get it. The only thing hard with it is to lock it, it needs to be at about 45 degrees to the floor to get it to lock. Going around a wall, you need to drive the pieces under the wall. Don't forget to remove all the baseboard and cut the door jamb to fit. Good Luck. G



__________________
gmicken is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply


Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter DIY Home Repair Forum Replies Last Post
Real People... Real Service jillianthompson Windows and Doors 1 01-29-2010 10:28 AM
Real wood paneling in basement Lemer Walls and Ceilings 6 11-14-2008 12:50 PM
need 24 sq ft real or simulated terrazzo shu246 Flooring 3 10-29-2006 10:10 AM
real estate agents designer General Home Improvement Discussion 15 09-30-2006 10:52 PM