dekerbrian

I am going to renovate my basement but first I plan to permanently seal all of the tie rods holes (just skimmed over by builder). Was planning on knocking each hole out, pop a cork in leaving 1" void space, and then filling this void space in with Quikrete Water Stop.

Has anyone else done this or what are other methods to fix these holes.

Based on past experience, I dont want to leave them, since I have seen them eventually fail in my previous house.

nealtw

This might stop a leak for a while, the question is, was is addressed from the outside during construction. If water and air can get to the steel it will rust and expand, which will damage the concrete and create the leak. Repaing the inside is only a stopgap and it will fail again over time.
So I think doing this work on the inside is a waiste of time. If you do have some bad ones look first at how hard is it to fix it from the other side.

dekerbrian

I agree with looking into what is causing the water to get in to the holes from the exterior. Would you recommend popping out the holes and leaving them exposed during the spring rainy season to see were the potential problems may be and then investigate how to fix them from the outside first. Then fill the holes back in during the Fall before I renovate.

I've only been in this house since June, so I am not sure if I have a problem or not. Just being overly cautious.

nealtw

I would spend my time inspecting the outside to determin the quality of the waterproofing that was applied, I suspect that the foam was applied last while backfilling and is only as deep as frost protection is required. Do you know if a perimiter drain was installed?

dekerbrian

Yes there is a perimeter drain. I assume this then comes inside to my sump pump.

nealtw

I don't think you have a problem but there is never a garrentee, I would go ahead.

nealtw

How to Insulate Inside the Basement | Office of Energy Efficiency

BridgeMan

I think you really mean snap-tie cones when you mentioned "tie rod holes." But, whatever--unless you're sure the holes are actually leaking, why bother doing anything to them? If dry and buried behind your finished walls, who cares? Sounds like you might enjoy making unnecessary work for yourself.

On the other hand, if they are indeed leaking, you might consider popping out the plastic cones, if present, and filling all of the holes with a moisture-expanding caulk. I don't recall a brand name for the stuff, but it's supposed to be great for sealing voids--it swells up when wet, making things fairly water proof. And probably pricey, too. Google is your friend.

mudmixer

dekerbrian -

I would avoid putting cork or any organic material in the void and the covering it up.

If you are really concerned, clean out and roughen the surface of the hole and pack it with a relatively dry hydraulic cement (generic product that is commonly relabeled). It must be forced in and mixed in very small amounts because it sets up in minutes and expands to form a tight "plug" that is totally compatible with the concrete.

I have used this numerous time in the repair of cracks and restoration of old (60 years+) dams and other concrete structures.

Dick