loosescrew

Hello everyone,

I am going to attempt a DIY repair of the 1 x 12 section of my driveway which connects my garage floor to an aggregate drive. There is approx a 2-foot section which started out as large cracks, and I have since chiseled away all the loose material leaving a "pothole". This hole is 2 1/2" at it's deepest point, and approx 1 1/2" deep at the most shallow point.

I have attached some pics which should explain my repair in much better detail. My questions are:

1. What type of concrete mix should I use?
2. Are there tricks to edging the patch so that it matches the surrounding material?
3. Is resurfacing the entire 1' x 12' area after the initial patch is cured the best bet to make for a cosmetically pleasing result?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Ben

glennjanie

Welcome Ben:
I would use an epoxy bonding agent for concrete, brushed on the un-even surface and a 4000psi mix worked into the opening very agressively. Trowell the concrete and use an edger next to the exposed agregate part. In the future, make sure there is no salt used on the driveway; it has a chemical reaction with the concrete that causes it to disintergrate.
Glenn

loosescrew

Excellent info. Thanks for the help Glenn.

homefish

I just thought that it has something to do with getting in the cracks and expanding them. Didn't think it was some chemical thing.

__________________
Glad to be here.

mudmixer

Does the garage drain toward the front?

If so. it could be a result of salt drippings from the car that collect at the joint and decrease the durability of the apron. Do you have air entrained concrete in the exposed aggregate slab?

Around here they will not sell or deliver exposed aggregate mixes for external use (patio or driveway) unless it is a minimum of 4000 psi (some producers have a 4500 psi minimum) plus 5% air entrainment. - Same applies to all driveways.

Patching materials are not always durable when it comes to deicers.

ccarlisle

Deicing products react with the rebar, then that causes the concrete to crack.

nealtw

What I see is a little different. I think what you have in the hole is the top of the foundation. It is usually poored a little lower so it doesn't interfere with the garage floor but someone put that step into the garage leaving only 2" for concrete over the wall. This will continue for the rest of that area. I would cut a straight line 8" back from the driveway line and replace that area using a bonding agent.

itsreallyconc

my guess is that spall was caused by no expansion jnt material being installed between the structure & driveway & it happened soon after the drive was placed 1st showing up as micro-cracking,,, subsequent traffic just made it worse,,, all the other guesses may be righter than mine, tho,,, no one can match existing conc for appearance UNLESS you o'lay the garage floor at the same time - perhaps a band across the door.

DUNBAR

If you want any type of longevity in that repair,


Use Acryl60, one of the strongest bonding agents found in concrete repair.


Also, you need to get some type of long lasting expansion joint in and around where your patch is or it'll just happen again.


Buy a few bags of that fast setting, high psi strength concrete and use as little water as possible, but remember you have to move twice as fast as you normally would in putting a finish on it.


Once it hardens, and the weather doesn't get below freezing,


Keep that patch wet as much as you can. The strongest concrete out there is accomplished by slow curing process.

It might sound like a contradiction stating the use of fast set concrete, then the wisdom about slow curing but I'm assuming you need to use this garage in short time.



The worst thing you can do to concrete when placing is pour in extreme heat, the concrete dry extremely fast and no water to the surface after the finished surface has hardened.

Concrete sucks the water out of the subgrade instantly when it is placed... why would you 'not' keep feeding it water thereafter.

The mollecular structure of that concrete when placed correctly will find it's true testing strength in 7-14 days. Up to 30 days where concrete is truly "cured".

__________________
[URL="http://DunbarPlumbing.com/"][SIZE="1"][B]Northern Kentucky Plumbers[/B][/SIZE][/URL] [SIZE="1"][B][URL="http://YouTube.com/DunbarPlumbing/"][COLOR="Red"]Plumbing Videos![/COLOR][/URL][/B][/SIZE]

Jamie_ada

you could just cut the concrete off at the step up into the garage and repour this would look beter than patcing unless you decide to epoxy the garage although epoxy goes yellow in the sun so mabe not a good idea.

Decorative Concrete Resurafacing Gold Coast Brisbane