DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum > DIY Home Improvement > Bricks, Masonry and Concrete > Flat Concrete Roof Cracks




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Old 05-02-2013, 01:14 PM  
o2284200
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I don't know what climate zone you're in, but I'd be tempted to install some composite deck planks, directly onto the existing surface and oriented "downhill", using a compatible adhesive. Only doing so if the existing surface is sound and not likely to further deteriorate, of course.
Tropical climate entering rainy & hurricane season. If the existing surface is sound and not likely to further deteriorate, what would you do with the cracks before installing composite deck planks directly onto it?


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Old 05-02-2013, 04:26 PM  
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Cracks should be sealed (after thoroughly cleaning, of course) with either polyurethane or possibly a low-modulus epoxy. Vee-ing them out with an angle grinder will provide more purchase area for the sealant. You could lay down some bitumen mastic sheets after the sealant has cured, to provide some extra protection.

Depending on the extent of rebar corrosion, a major repair or even complete replacement may be in order. Being close to an ocean is often hard on reinforced concrete structures, because of all of the salt in the air permeating into the concrete. If there are just a few isolated areas of exposed/corroded rebar, such could be repaired by sandblasting to near-white conditions (and adding some supplemental bars if significant section loss is evident) before applying dense concrete patching material.



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Old 05-06-2013, 11:44 AM  
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Cracks should be sealed (after thoroughly cleaning, of course) with either polyurethane or possibly a low-modulus epoxy. Vee-ing them out with an angle grinder will provide more purchase area for the sealant. You could lay down some bitumen mastic sheets after the sealant has cured, to provide some extra protection.
Thanks! How much of the old black stuff & concrete patch do I need to take out?

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Depending on the extent of rebar corrosion, a major repair or even complete replacement may be in order. Being close to an ocean is often hard on reinforced concrete structures, because of all of the salt in the air permeating into the concrete. If there are just a few isolated areas of exposed/corroded rebar, such could be repaired by sandblasting to near-white conditions (and adding some supplemental bars if significant section loss is evident) before applying dense concrete patching material.
The only outwardly visible rebar corrosion is under the soffits (drip edge would've been nice) almost directly in between the 2 cracks on the roof deck. It's obviously been patched before and similar patch appears to take up most of the soffit area. The close up pics show the worst 3 areas on the soffit, as far as I can tell.







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Old 05-06-2013, 12:44 PM  
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What happens if the steel is exposed to moisture and air it will rust and expand and break the concrete. So the idea is to remove all the loose concrete and rust, you won't know what you have until you get there.

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Old 05-07-2013, 03:17 PM  
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When making any crack or concrete repairs, a good rule of thumb is to always remove every bit of unsound, loose or dirty material. Otherwise, your new repair product has nothing decent to adhere to. "Make it clean enough to eat off of", I always told my inspection techs and concrete rehab contractors.

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Old 05-08-2013, 09:03 AM  
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Thanks! So, as for Vee-ing them out with an angle grinder... Going back to the roof deck and the large oval shaped crack; the 4000 psi pressure washer removed as much of unsound, loose or dirty material as it could. How much more of the old concrete patch & black stuff do I need to force out OR am I just trying to now clean up the edges to provide more purchase area for the sealant?

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Old 06-13-2013, 11:42 AM  
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Have gone any further on this mess?



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