DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum > DIY Home Improvement > Bricks, Masonry and Concrete > Patch/seal a concrete seam in cold weather - how to?




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Old 01-03-2008, 10:44 PM  
glennjanie
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Hey Quattro:
It sounds like a plan to me. Is that plywood form holding up a concrete floor? That would be quite a bit of weight for the framing you are showing. I see they used framing anchors but they are attached to a member that is held up to the floor joists with toe nails. That is a dangerous situation and the wall under the preimeter of the form is a very good remedy. I'm all for you.
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Old 01-04-2008, 06:50 AM  
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Yes, the plywood is under the concrete slab! My idea is to put a floor jack on it while I remove the existing framing, then build the support wall and then remove the jack.

Thanks!



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Old 01-07-2008, 09:02 AM  
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Progress report!

I was successful in removing the old 2x4 framing that spanned the plywood form. I built a 2x6" wall to support the ends of the floor joists at the front door, as well as the inside edge of the top step. It's VERY sturdy! I still have to build the short-side wall.

I also placed a cut-to-fit piece of 2" XPS foam against the plywood and steel lintels. I used silicone caulk around the edges to help seal out the air. Next, I'll frame the interior of that new "room", add more foam insulation, a vapor barrier, and finally drywall! I hope I've done things right here...the main concern is to keep the moist/warm basement air from condensing on the cool plywood/lintels. This ought to do it!

I will get a photo up tonight!

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Old 01-07-2008, 11:18 AM  
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Congrats Quattro, I think you got it beat. Between the caulk, foam, insulation and vapor barrier, I seriously doubt you'll have any problems. Way to go!

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Old 01-07-2008, 06:38 PM  
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I agree with Toolguy, Way to go.
Sounds like you just put a "coozie" around that nice cold soda can.

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Old 01-07-2008, 07:38 PM  
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And, here are the pics! Got the short wall mostly constructed...but it was baby's bed time, so the hammer got put away! :-)

Overview:



Closer:



A little foam in the gap on the short wall side, then framing on the back and long side concrete, more foam insulation, vapor barrier, then drywall! I'm excited. Oh, and I have to re-route that electrical cable through the joist and down the wall, and the outlet will then be on the short wall.

Thanks for all the support thus far.

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Old 01-08-2008, 08:45 PM  
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Question, do I need a vapor barrier with this XPS?

I'm getting conflicting info online.

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Old 01-08-2008, 11:58 PM  
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Actually, I've used it as it's own barrier, and foam (Great Stuff) in and around all the edges and seams. Can't say whether that was right or wrong, but it worked for me.

Nice job on the framing, looks rock solid from where I'm sitting.

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Old 01-09-2008, 01:45 PM  
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I have all the seams sealed with silicone caulk, and then taped with packing tape.

Owens Corning's website says this material has a water vapor perm (max) rating of 1.10. But, that's for 1" material. For some reason, they don't give ratings for the thicker material. I have 2" on the ceiling here, and 1.5" on the walls (not in the above pictures).

So, am I right to assume that the thicker stuff has a lower perm rating? I read that 1.0 or lower is acceptable for residential. I just don't want to have to take drywall down if somehow adding a plastic barrier is going to trap moisture coming through the drywall.

Ugh!

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Old 01-09-2008, 07:13 PM  
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I couldn't answer all the technical stuff. But I will say that the packaging tape will dry out over the years and fall off.

I guess you have to ask yourself how much extra work is it to add vapor barrier. The cost is certainly minimal.



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