 |
|
11-11-2011, 05:23 PM
|
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: vancouver, b.c.
Posts: 4,774
Liked 214 Times on 200 Posts Likes Given: 330
|
Bridgeman; Good point!!
|
|
|
11-12-2011, 06:08 AM
|
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Hartfield VA, VA
Posts: 1,329
Liked 27 Times on 24 Posts Likes Given: 2
|
I still think your way over engineering this one simple job.
If the beam is slightly lifted so the coloum can be slid in place once lowered there will be 0 uplifting in the center of the room, from then on it will always be top loaded. The only side load would be if someone ran into it with a piece of furniture. A few simple Tap Cons would hold it in place at the bottom and some lags at the top.
A roof system would have up lift to deal with a floor does not.
|
|
|
11-12-2011, 01:47 PM
|
|
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Near NYC
Posts: 5
|
usually baseplates are set right on the conc footing. larger projects use non-shrink grout under the baseplate to level it perfect. Not sure if they have setting nuts under those columns though and just fill in the grout after the column is set or if they level the grout first...at any rate, the grout is 1/2"-1" thk. Better to drill the holes after the footing
is poured and use 1/2"-3/4" dia expan anchors. not sure the loads here so this is ballpark.
Architect in Westchester county NY
|
|
|
11-12-2011, 10:47 PM
|
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Cottage Grove, Oregon
Posts: 659
Liked 45 Times on 44 Posts
|
west,
Not sure leveling nuts would be practical or justified in a situation like this, where the column is just a "stub" in a crawl space. Cantilever and overhead sign structures often use them when precision is needed to get the 20-ft.+/- columns truly "plumb." And as I and others have stated earlier, a leveling course of grout is also probably overkill (unless the finished concrete surface is really out of whack).
|
|
|
11-13-2011, 12:47 AM
|
|
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Near NYC
Posts: 5
|
not saying he should use leveling nuts or grout, just what i have seen on
"larger projects" i.e. commercial.
But now that i know God is present here, i will hold my comments as they are surely redundant.
|
|
|
12-07-2011, 06:05 PM
|
|
|
Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 45
|
I just saw these few more replies to my question. I very much appreciate that. With this input I've decided to just bolt the plate to the footing and weld it afterwards (making sure to allow for sufficient curing first like BridgeMan said). As far as anchors I'll probably go with epoxy.
My concern now is how/if to fill the pipes with concrete. But that is a new issue so I started another thread.
Thanks again everyone.
|
|
|
12-08-2011, 01:37 AM
|
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Cottage Grove, Oregon
Posts: 659
Liked 45 Times on 44 Posts
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoreCowbell
My concern now is how/if to fill the pipes with concrete. But that is a new issue so I started another thread.
|
Something to think about before starting another thread on filling with concrete--a Schedule 40, 4" pipe (actual outside diameter of 4.5", wall thickness of 0.237") is capable of carrying a total compressive force of slightly less than 67,000 pounds. Based on a total steel area of 3.17 sq. in., and allowable compressive stress of 21,050 psi, Kl/r = 1.48. In other words, if your living room furniture weighs more than 33.5 tons per column, or you're possibly expecting lots of very heavy house guests, then yes, by all means fill the little buggers with concrete. Good luck on getting it in there.
On the other hand, should you choose to come back from the dark side of anal-hood, and just leave the pipes empty, that would be perfectly acceptable also. And one heck of a lot easier.
|
|
|
12-08-2011, 08:07 PM
|
|
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Tyler, Texas
Posts: 12
|
Realize that this is a long time after the original post, however I am surprised that none ot the "experts" on here didn't mention expansion anchors. You can find several sizes of them in any good hardware department / store. With them all you have to do is set your pre drilled base plate on the concrete footer and when it is where you want it, just drill holes using masonary bits, then drive the expansion anchors into the holes and tighten the nuts on them.
|
|
|
08-29-2012, 07:42 AM
|
|
|
Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 45
|
Just want to say thanks to the folks that gave me input on this. I finally finished the columns. Regarding the anchors I ended up hanging the pipe column from the girder about a 1/2" higher than the final height then hung the L-bolts from the base plate and placed the concrete. Afterwards, to get a nice uniform bearing surface for the steel, I lowered the column until it sunk into the concrete about an 1/8" inch.
The reason I didn't use a baseplate template to position the bolts is that I shortsightedly had the holes punched the exact diameter of the bolts - so there was no play at all, so I needed to use the actual thing.
I now digging and will sood be ready for my retaining wall which leads to another question - but that is something for a different thread.
|
|
|
08-29-2012, 07:59 AM
|
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: vancouver, b.c.
Posts: 4,774
Liked 214 Times on 200 Posts Likes Given: 330
|
Well done, looks great.
|
|
|
| Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
|
| Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
|
|