Rubber non-slip sidewalk
I was in a home depot while on vacation in florida, and at the entrance, they have rubberized the sidewalk outside, i don't know if it is sprayed on or rolled like linoleum.....
I want to renew my pool sidewalk with something similar.....
any ideas would be great...
Johnsonite is the biggest name in rubber flooring and floor tiles. They make a 2 foot square VINYL tile specifically intended for use in wet areas, such as around swimming pools, called "Safe-t-Stride". It can be used indoors or outdoors.
You can find out more about it at:
Johnsonite Old > Flooring Products > Vinyl Flooring > Safety Stride Tile
here's the best stuff we've found for conc OR wood,,, matter of fact, start'd a new company - deksavers.com :)
about $1 sf mtl cost,,, roller/paintbrush/drywall sprayer application - good ' pot life ' - developed for marine environments - ANY color - quik to apply incl prep - UV resistant - easier on your tootsies - cooler than reg conc
IF anyone thinks they're going to get off easy by doing insufficient prep, be forewarn'd - mtl performance is based on proper prep !
gulfsynthetics.com - enjoy !
And how is it holding up so far?
We just bought a concessions trailer for our local Lions club. I'm in charge of figuring out what to do to set up the trailer. Build cabinets and protect the floor. I was looking into rubber tiles, but if there is a good protectant floor that can be painted on to plywood floor, and touched up once and a while, that would work fine too. I have seen products come and go for years, I want to do a good job so we don't have to spend money every couple years.
I was thinking about using the spray on bed protector for pickup trucks, but that has a textured surface that will be a pain in the arse to clean up on.:D
Any ideas as I steal this thread?:eek:
d, put it on my own deck 3yrs ago in atl suburb - no more mold/mildew - ketchup, mustard, wine, & bar-b-q sauce just hose off w/dawn detergent - its flexible - color's still good - cooler on the tootsies - no more splintering - nail pops're almost non-existent anymore - no problem w/adhesion loss due to expansion/contraction.
before we applied it, we caulk'd the spaces 'tween 2x6's w/acrylic caulk & scrap'd level w/putty knife,,, applied it 2 days later - 3 yrs it still looks great !
no reason to think it won't hold up to the flex rqmts in your trlr,,, its also slightly textur'd but no problem w/cleanup,,, we also use the conc formulation for below-grade waterproofing up to 4' deep,,, its been a great score for us :trophy:
Well, I will float it by the other gurus in the club. Looks like a great solution for what we need with all that spilled food headed our way.:D
Thanks again, I will let you know how it holds up in a few years if we go that way. :trophy:
As always ,the key is in the prep.
Considering a concession trailer has a small floor, I'd consider using aluminum diamond plate tiles as the floor.
You would glue the aluminum tiles down with any flooring adhesive so they could be removed in future as necessary. And, if it were me, I'd staple or nail down 1/4 inch plywood underlayment over your 3/4 inch plywood floor first. That way, in future, if you ever want to remove that floor, just pry up the 1/4 inch underlayment, and you're back to your starting point.
Steel diamond plate is often used on ships because it provides good traction even in wet conditions and is easy to keep clean. But, you don't need the durability of steel for a concession trailer. Aluminum would outlast the trailer by a couple of hundred years.
Alternatively, you could simply buy aluminum diamond plating like this:
and screw it down. To cut it, just use a cheap tungsten carbide bit wood blade on a table saw. Here in Winnipeg, I buy aluminum thresholds from Northwest Weatherstripping and he just uses a tungsten carbide blade to cut it with, but they do use some kind of lubricant (I think it's a lubricant.) on the blade before cutting.
Alternatively, you can just cut it with a jig saw and bimetal blade. An ordinary file makes quick work of filing off any burrs along the cut edge.
anytime there's food being served, bldg codes like to see SEAMLESS including the 4" cove on the floor/wall intersection,,, gulf'll do it,,, the mtls avail for flooring surfaces ( decorative or not ) are about as abundant/confusing as kitchen c-tops ( conc, formica, s/s, copper. granite, marble, soapstone, as nauseum )
for the same reason as nestor ( small floor area ), i'd want NO joints to trap junk
isn't steel diamond plate's used for addl tensile strength in many applications in addn to traction,,, loading docks would use it for traction & flexural strength,,, keeping clean's another issue 'cause steel often rusts as i've found over the yrs :eek:
may the lions prosper & serve for a couple hundred years :agree: rotary, too :D
The area health department wants no seams for the trailer, we have been through this here before. usually we had a vinyl sheet floor, with a rubber cove that gets caulked at that seam. It still was nasty, and never really held up for to long. Even with the rubber mats we put down.
Now they let us put down cardboard and duct tape it to the floor, then throw it away after each function.
I'm going to press the issue with the coating, since I have been there a while, folks respect my judgement for building things. Seams like anytime we build something I end up being voluntold to that commitee...even when I'm not there.:D
Thank for the ideas, D
There's a flooring material they use in hospitals. I don't know what it's called, but after installation, the seams are hot melt welded together afterward with a special tool.
Just phone up the installation manager of any carpet retailer and he would know what it's called.
|All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:24 PM.|