TxBuilder

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karenboucher

i have a gambrel with a roof that inslopes over the house,big icedamn problems,i have sprayfoamed insulation where the two roofs meet and adaquate insulation every where else,two gable vents and a ridge vent roofer did not put grace down so major water is leaking in .i can fix the roof in the spring but why am i losing heat to create icedamns,i am completely baffled,thankyou

inspectorD

Sounds like there are vents in the wrong place. Try the building performance institute http://www.bpi.org/content/consumers/find.php for a competant building consultant in you area. I have firsthand experience with the folks listed. They can observe the building and give you solutions.

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karenboucher

thanks I took care of the vents that were where the two roofs meet and with the gable vents and the ridge vent I figured it should be adequate but unfortunately I didn't roof it and I do not understand with plenty of insulation why I'm losing heat.Maybe the ''triangle part'' but I appreciate your suggestion,it's a battle I would like to win

susanne828

I have this dark 60's type paneling. I do not believe this is real wood, way to many fake plank impression and distress marks. I can't find any indication there is any dry wall underneath. Thought about skim coating with spakle. Heard about a thick wall paper that should cover. My idea is to sand it smooth, prime and paint. Is this do able???

karenboucher

hi I used to live in nj,anyways chances are if there is drywall the paneling is glued to it.You could actually take off an outlet plate cover you should be able to see next to the outlet inside because the box is attached to the stud.you should be able to tell there.you might spend more time preping the panel for paint than its worth ,maybe tear apart one wall at a time and sheetrock it ,if its an outside wall reinsulate while you are there.kind of a pain,little bit of a mess but if the paint doesn't stick or the wallpaper glue doesn't stick to the paneling you'll wind up ripping it out anyways,wasting your time and your money.good luck

dlpruitt

help if possible....i have an approx. 2" diameter rust spot in my bathtub..i have been trying to research if it would be possible to fix myself...or need to hire someone...any suggestions..

glennjanie

Welcome DLPruitt:
If it is a cast iron tub I would hire a tub refinishing company.
If it is a steel tub of some age, I would tear it out and replace it. A new steel tub is not terribly expensive.
Glenn

2 old 4 this

I have a 50s home.The bathroom has one side concrete block then goes into regular wood framing. We had to tear out the ceiling because of mold from an old leak (fixed now) . Should we insulate with rigid foam to the main house and vapor seal. Or use batt insulation with the Kraft paper ?
Problem 2-The laundry room next to it has and mold on the wall by the bottom,I think the concrete needs to be sealed on the outside.Drylock ???
I would appreciate any ideas to help us fix this problem.
Thank you for your help.
Jean

windi

The house I live in was built in 1911, Bathroom was put in in 1948. The ceiling tile is like paper, the walls are also a paper like drywall?? At some point the owners (I rent) tried to panel over some of the walls with wood paneling (shower too).The edges of the panel from the water looks terrible,on the ceiling the mildew is pretty heavy. I don't have a lot of money and I am trying to fix myself. Paint did not work. I painted the ceiling and the walls not paneled and now I have a big mess. Very tiny flakes peeling of everything. I started over and I am trying to strip all the paint, I happy that the mildew is coming off with the paint and no mildew under it. The problem is that old ceiling and wall board. It doesn't sand well either. Looks kind of like brown paper bag. Well it just looks terrible.
What do I do now I am little 40 year old lady trying hard to fix. I can only do a little bit at a time. I have 1 bathroom so I have to get it cleaned up to use by dinner time. My grandson lives with me, he is 5. I do take him to a sitter while I am stripping the paint. The clean up takes a long time, although the stripper is oderless and a weak gel type. I still make sure its all off before I pick him up. I am not getting very far with the stripper though.

I have looked at Bathroom AquaTile embossed tileboard from lowe's for all the walls and shower area, and ceiling tile that glue up (acpideas ceiling tile) Can anyone tell me if this will work and does it stick really good in a bathroom that has a lot of moisture. Its a very small bathroom 9 x 6 room.