RockyMtnBlue

Ledgers: ok to bolt ledges directly to concrete? Should I fill the gap between the concrete and the ledger? Silicone chalk?

RockyMtnBlue

Securing posts to piers:

I plan to use concrete expansion bolts and angle brackets with a single 1/2" bolt. Comments?




The beams will be secured to the posts with two 1/2 bolts in each beam.

nealtw

You don't need chaulk or anything between concrete and treated wood and your bolt down is fine.

inspectorD

Sounds good to me, However there is One last thing I would add. I would seal all cuts I make with a waterproof sealer such as anchorseal. Most of the PT wood is fine, but sometimes the preservative doe s not make it all the way through the new PT.
Have fun, and post pics when yer done!

__________________
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Made in the

BridgeMan

If it were mine, I wouldn't try to attach the spliced beam ends to the 4 x 4 posts with 4 bolts. What you're proposing doesn't leave enough "meat" between the edges of holes and ends of members, and actually creates weak points at both the beam ends and the back-side 4 x 4 posts. Wouldn't be an issue if you had used 6 x 6 posts, as the IRC requires. A much stronger connection for your situation would be to use 6 through-bolts, 2 longest drilled into the gap between beam ends (with mender plates), and also going through a centered rim scab on the outside; the other 4 shorter ones could then be located farther away from the beam ends, going through them and the outside scab, but not connected to the vertical post. Posts and beam ends would be much stronger doing it that way, and wouldn't be likely to fail when you load the deck with 15 tons of people.

RockyMtnBlue

BridgeMan, a 6x6 is possible, but I don't know what a "rim scab" is...

RockyMtnBlue

Is this an acceptable alternative? Or another 4x6 sistered with 1/2" through bolts, since I already have additional 4x6s.

RockyMtnBlue

Disregard (can't figure out how to delete a post from iPhone app..)

GBR

Code requires 6x6 or have your local inspector pass the 4x4's as they are so short, see the "notes" at the end of this Code Book: http://www.awc.org/Publications/DCA/DCA6/DCA6-09.pdf

Two bolts on each end of beams are required on a bearing post, notice the picture and placement Tables.

Concrete is a porous material that stores/wicks moisture and water like a sponge. Capillary action will wet the wood if drier than the porch concrete---- pressure treated or not, and soon start rot.The pressure treatment is against bugs and decay rot, not water. As said, treat the p.t. with a water-proof, the whole thing. I would use some Grace I&W shield on the side against the concrete and install it on stand-off washers for water drainage.

Screws are not acceptable other than on decking unless rated special as Simpson hangers/etc. Nails are called out on the Deck Code link stated. As are bolt placements, spans, piers, stairs, treads, risers, handrails, etc. It would answer any questions you may have though you need to read it first. Nice picture contrast and placement, BTW.

Gary

RockyMtnBlue

Gary and other, thanks for the feedback. My first project this big. I used the online deck planner from Lowes and I guess I expected more from the city permit process when I turned in my plans. After getting city "approval", I discovered the AFPA doc you have referenced and have adopted many of those standards... With a few exceptions. Up until now, I've been thinking that since the city accepted my plans and all the decks I see built all around my area within the last year or two are 4x4 posts and 2x6 framing that my plan met their standards and the AFPA was a stricter standard. Thus, I have been thinking that my post size 4x6 is better than what my plan calls for (4x4) and what I see on decks just built on new houses.

Now, I'm thinking that I better check with the inspector before going any further. I'll be doing that Monday.

Roger