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Old 12-30-2013, 03:13 PM  
Mike-in-GA
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Default Ideas for enclosing crawlspace on cabin

Hello All, I am a new member to HRT and am looking forward to learning from all of you.

I own a small 30’X50’ cabin in North Georgia. It’s built on a slope and is supported by pressure treated wooden pillars. It has a dry dirt crawl space that’s partially enclosed with metal roofing material. The metal roofing is in very bad shape and needs to be replaced. i am exploring options for skirting replacement. There is plenty of natural flat stone on our property, which my wife loves and would like me to use as a stone veneer for new skirting. If I go this route, I’m thinking I should pour 12-inch concrete footers between the pillars to support the walls, with a few inches above the grade to keep out moisture.

Here are my questions: 1) I have been advised that fresh concrete can do harm to PT wood; what material should I use to wrap the wooden piers to protect them from contact with the newly poured concrete footers?
2) Could I use 6X6 PT timbers on top of a compacted gravel trench instead of poured concrete footers?
3) What type of backing should I use to affix the flat stone to the wall – i.e. PT plywood, cement board?

I will be putting down a moisture barrier over the dirt and up the walls of the crawlspace. I will also be running two dehumidifiers, plumbed to drain outside of the crawlspace.

Thanks in advance for any advice, and Happy New year to everyone!

Mike



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Old 12-30-2013, 05:43 PM  
nealtw
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You will want to know if there is frost depth required for GA , you can check this chart https://www.decks.com/deckbuilding/Deck_Footing_Frost_Depth_Map

The treated posts that you have should have rows and rows of knife cuts on all four sides, that allows more treatment to enter the wood and would indicated that it is rated for underground service and concrete will not hurt it. It wouldn't hurt to wrap the post with with a blue skin like product to stop the wood from wick moisture into the wood.
If we were doing this here where I am well would have to have the bottom of the footing at 18" below finish grade and then a concrete wall on that to 6 or 8 inches above the same finish grade, that allow water that wicks up to dry to the outside.
If your floor is insulated, you want to vent the area. If you want to seal the area with poly up the walls then you want to condition the area like it is part of the house.



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Old 12-31-2013, 07:29 AM  
Mike-in-GA
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Thank you nealtw!

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Old 12-31-2013, 05:04 PM  
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There are places that allow treated lumber to be used for foundations, that might be worth looking into. You would still have to be dealing with frost depth.

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