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Old 09-28-2013, 11:14 PM  
NYSandyvictim
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Default pier and beam and floor joist repair and leveling

Hello everyone. This may be a long post but i want to explain the best i can. In short im just looking for a little help fixing/leveling the foundation/floor joists in my home after a hurricane and contractor who made more of a mess then the hurricane. After we kicked the contractor out because they messed up EVERYTHING they did, i started researching for weeks straight on how to correct some things (mainly the floor) .

The problem: After we saw how shoddy the contractors work was we really started checking everything. At this point the plywood subfloor was already down and badly unlevel and sloping bad in areas which was supposed to be leveled since we paid for it. We noticed that the side sill beam (pier and beam house) was badly rotted and cracked. Somehow the contractor didnt notice this or didnt care and laid the ply anyway. Well we made him take care of it foolishly and replace the sill beam/fix joists ect. He did it very poorly. He put in a cement footing 3" deep, replaced the sill with a treated 4x6.The joists that were badly damaged from the sill beam collapse he just put ripped down 2x2's on top of to make it look like it was fixed but didnt fix the joists.he actually cut the 2x10 joists off the sill beam and he sistered 2x4's about a foot or two in at the end all crookedly and barely attached . i slapped a few off with my finger when we took up the floor once he was gone. he also laid broken pieces of scrap wood all over the place to make the floor a little more level which it still was not.Not to mention he cut the wall studs off the sill beam and never replaced them. i guess he did most of this because he didnt own a jack and the rest out of carelessness and spite.

Anyway now i am at the point of fixing this mess myself the right way starting from the dining room which is level all the way to the rear of the house. Dining room>Kitchen>bathroom/backdoor.Then end of the dining room to the middle of the kitchen is where the sill beam collapse was. I just started the job a few days ago. I sistered the original 2x10's with new 2x10's spanning from on the sill beam all the way to the center beam . BTW the house has 2 sill beams spanning 20' with a center beam splitting the span to 10' .The pics will tell more on how the house is. I got 4 done as of now leveled to the rest of the house that was undmaged and level. I connected the sisters with 3/8" carriage bolts with big washers and PL premium adhesive as well as 3 10dor16d ring shank nails shot in every 16" with the framing nailer. nice and strong now they are level and dont budge like they used to when being pushed on. I am now at the area where the sill collapsed and the joist is sinking more then 2" as it goes toward the sill beam. This also happens to be under the stairs and a non load bearing wall. The wall after removing the contractors ripped up 2x2 wedge under it is now floating about 2" over the joist. I have to get that joist back up to level. i put two jacks under it . This is where im at now.

There is a few beams laying across the floor under the stairs in which i need some advise on. The middle two dont look like they are doing anything . The one on the right (pics below) looks like its partially under a perpendicular wall in the kitchen . The one on the left looks like it goes all the way the the rear of the house. Iv never seen anything like this. maybe someone here can see something or give advise on what they would do. I dont want to go breaking anything jacking. Anything you guys happen to notice in the pics below that would help or anything i should know .I know its kinda hard to tell. I did start jacking a little today and got the joist up around a inch already going very slowly all day.A pump or two every 20-30min.There doesnt seem like that much pressure on the jacks.There was some minor creaking and popping sounds on a couple pumps at the end of the day when we decided to stop and let it sit overnight. The pops sound like they are coming from the beam running under the stairs that i mentioned above. Could be just some nails breaking free or just unsticking. No major sounds. I just wanted to get some advice hear before i continue. My plan is to get it back up to where its supposed to be and sister a 2x10 across it like i did to the others.



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Old 09-28-2013, 11:17 PM  
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Heres some pics of everything from the contractors mess,sill beam old and new and then the work on the joist i just started.

sill beam problem

new sill beam( what looks like fixed joists is not.They acually only go in 15" or so and attached to the top of the old 2x10s that were cut which are hanging below the sill beam inside.



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Old 09-28-2013, 11:17 PM  
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pics of contractors mess



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Old 09-28-2013, 11:18 PM  
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on the left is where i started fixing and right side is more contractors crazy mess.


Joist i sistered so far with new 2x10's glued,bolted and nailed spanning sill to middle sill.


Now for what im up to and need some advice on if possible.
The problem vvvv Notice how looking through the wall under the stairs the floor is dropping bad compared to the rest of the house and newly sistered joists past it.
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Old 09-28-2013, 11:20 PM  
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I started removing all the little pieces they wedged under the wall to make up the space between the sunken joist and the wall.This needed to be removed to jack it of course.

more pics of the wood from the kitchen side.


with the wood removed. Notice the large gap under the wall and sunken joist below it.

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Old 09-28-2013, 11:21 PM  
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as the joist sinks down going towards the stairs. the middle sill beam is what it keeping the joist up high on the right side.

under the stairs .These are the beams i mentioned above that im not sure of what they are there for. The right one looks to be under the perpendicular wall in the kitchen just a tad but ends about 5' back.The middle 2 end about 3ft back and arnt doing anything. The left one seems to run through the whole kitchen under the drywall but im not sure its actually doing anything.IDK.That one seems to be the only thing really creaking when jacking though. Some pics to help you help me


heres where i set up my jacks. jack on the right is sitting a long 4' 2x6 and a few other 2x's packed tightly into the soil and leveled. On the top of the jack is 2 2x's .One i drilled a hole in the size of the jack screw to keep it on there steady. The other jack on the left is my secondary just sitting on the cement footing. BTW i had a friend repour the footing so its now 3ft deep. A little better then the 3" the contractor did.The original 2x10 joist in the pic is not touching the sill .It was cut and only thing holding it up it that piece of 2x6 in the front which was not even held on good itself. I put a extra 2x6 spanning all the way just for strength while jacking which will be changed to a new 2x10 when its jacked all the way . The front one will be coming out too after and also be a 2x10.


Sorry for the long post . I just wanted to give a idea of my situation . Any advise from here foward is greatly appriciated on anything you can see or would help my journey. Thanks a bunch.

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Old 09-29-2013, 01:40 AM  
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I think you did good by getting rid of the contractor want to be. I think I would have attacked this a little different than you did but, here you are.
How did you attach or support the floor joists at the new sill beam?
I can't figure out for sure the beams under the stairs. If they are below the floor joists, they may have been put there to support the stairs and wall beside the stairs just to take the bounce out of the floor.

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Old 09-29-2013, 06:34 PM  
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You have alot of pictures and detail but i am still having so trouble following why or how the floor is so far out of level. The one picture looks like its 6" out of level in 6' and 16" away the next floor joist under stairs looks level. (I think its the stairs there). So the floor joists are not long enough to sit the new sill and you are jacking up floor joists one at a time while sistering in new 2x10? I would not do this. You should be jacking up as many floor joist at one time as possible. A 4x4 makes for a good temp beam should be safe spanning 6'. Use 6x6 if lifting more than floor joists. You should not be jacking up the walls steps 2nd floor or roof unless there is obvious gap that needs to be filled. I see your wall has new studs so that would suggest that they were installed after the floor sank. I would not jacking anymore. Instead I would cut down studs of wall. you dont want to jack up 2nd floor if it doesnt need it.

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Old 09-30-2013, 11:44 AM  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nealtw View Post
I think you did good by getting rid of the contractor want to be. I think I would have attacked this a little different than you did but, here you are.
How did you attach or support the floor joists at the new sill beam?
I can't figure out for sure the beams under the stairs. If they are below the floor joists, they may have been put there to support the stairs and wall beside the stairs just to take the bounce out of the floor.
floor joists just rest on the sill beam. I did add some L brackets but the original joists just sat on the sill between the wall plate and the sill.

Quote:
Originally Posted by guyod View Post
You have alot of pictures and detail but i am still having so trouble following why or how the floor is so far out of level. The one picture looks like its 6" out of level in 6' and 16" away the next floor joist under stairs looks level. (I think its the stairs there). So the floor joists are not long enough to sit the new sill and you are jacking up floor joists one at a time while sistering in new 2x10? I would not do this. You should be jacking up as many floor joist at one time as possible. A 4x4 makes for a good temp beam should be safe spanning 6'. Use 6x6 if lifting more than floor joists. You should not be jacking up the walls steps 2nd floor or roof unless there is obvious gap that needs to be filled. I see your wall has new studs so that would suggest that they were installed after the floor sank. I would not jacking anymore. Instead I would cut down studs of wall. you dont want to jack up 2nd floor if it doesnt need it.
The floor is out of level because a portion (first pic ) of the sill beam collapsed where the joist dropped with it in that area. The contractors fix was not raising the joists back up to the original position ,he just nailed a 2x4 to the side of the old one that attached to the top portion of the old 2x10 .So basicallly the 2x10 is still dropping below the sill beam while the new 2x4 is sitting on the sill beam just holding the original from falling more.However the original 2x10 supposed to be sitting on the sill also is supposed to support the wall plate which now nothing is. The problem is just in that 6' or so area however since he didnt fix that area he hacked up the rest of the kitchen joists to make it more level with the damaged area instead of fixing the actual problem then kitchen joists would have been good and level. Before he started on the house there was only a single 2x10 every 16oc .Now there 4 or 5 pieces of wood in all different spots off each original 2x10 making spots of unlevelness and voids all over.

The joists were long enough to reach even the new sill but the contractor cut them short because he didnt own a jack to get them back up wjere they were supposed to be before putting in the new sill beam.

I was able to get the joist under the stairs jaacked all the way back up yesterday so now the top of the 2x10 is up against the wall plate and bottom over the sill. I then sistered a new joist in there so it sits flat on the sill beam. now its in the same position again like when the house was built. It doesnt look like the jacking effected any walls,just the joist im thinking .There was very little pressure on the jack handles. The wall with the gap was put in after the problem and the contractor never even screwed it down to the joist . The whole bottom was pretty much floating. Well he had ply wood under it ,The plywood was touching the adjacent joists but not the joist under the wall which is the reason why the gap is there when the ply was removed.

I would like to here how you guys would do this job. Thats the reason im here. Anything im doing wrong or could be done better i would like to know. Im all about wanting to do everything right.
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:23 PM  
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The 2x10's should be spanning from beam to sill. Make sure your beam is strong enough. it wouldnt hurt to sister boards on to that too.
Use a long straight edge across floor joists to make sure you dont have dips or humps
I would jack up more than one floor joist at a time. Other than that i think your making the best out of a hack job.



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