DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum > DIY Home Improvement > Framing and Foundation > Replacing Rim Joist and Sill Plate




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Old 06-06-2013, 03:53 AM  
Millercchase
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Default Replacing Rim Joist and Sill Plate

I have an 8' rim joist and sill plate that is rotted about 4' from the corner of an 8x12' addition on my home due to water damage from what appeared to be a water line/washing machine leak that was neglected by the previous owner. Corner has begun to sag ~1/2-1". There is a support beam running perpendicular to the 12' floor joist 6ft from the rim joist, but does not extend to the outer floor joist. The Outer floor joist is rotted ~5ft from the corner. How should I go about replacing these. I know i'll have to support the roof from the outside to replace the rim joist and sill plate but should i replace the outermost parallel floor joist first and what would the easiest way be to go about doing this. I will also be replacing the sublooring which consists of 1/2"plywood, 3/4" tonge and groove overlaid with 1/2 plywood. Ill try to post pictures when i can. Thanks for any help.



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Old 06-06-2013, 07:33 AM  
CallMeVilla
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That is an ugly repair. Pics and a hand drawn diagram of the framing would help. This is gonna be fun!



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Old 06-06-2013, 07:42 AM  
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Can you tell if the rot has extended up into the floor and bottom plate of the wall above?

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Old 06-06-2013, 08:32 AM  
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I haven't pulled enough siding off but judging by the extent of the damage I would say yes on the bottom plate and possibly part of the studs. The subfloor rot is pretty extensive in about a 5' square in that corner but is solid everywhere else

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Old 06-06-2013, 08:57 AM  
bud16415
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From a generic point of view, without seeing any photos. You have to assume the addition hasn’t fallen down yet and most of that structure isn’t holding much of the roof at this point. I would remove the siding and insulation and drywall first. This should give you a better picture of the damage. Have a tarp ready to cover it up with until you get it fixed. When you see how far the damage is you can make a plan for jacking and bracing. You will have to decide if it’s best to replace the whole members that have rot or sister to them. Once you get it opened up and post a few photos I think you will get lots of advice.

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Old 06-06-2013, 08:59 AM  
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If I understand it right , you are "not" concerned about the rest of the joists. Just the one on top the foundation running in the same direction as the rest and the corner?

Type, size and condition of foundation?
One story addition?
Roof gable above this wall? Ceiling joist ends, siting on this wall above?
Welcome to the site!

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Old 06-06-2013, 09:04 AM  
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Bud: Carefull some additions can be sad at best and sometimes the siding is the sheeting, we don't want to rip and tear before we know the building won't fall down when we do it.

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Old 06-06-2013, 09:24 AM  
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I agree. If it looks like the siding is structural at this point I wouldn’t remove it. That’s why I prefaced my comment in terms of a generic assessment. If it’s vinyl siding or something that couldn’t be bearing you should get it off to see what condition the sheeting is in. Likewise the drywall inside should go along with the insulation to allow you to see the problem. Both of those are not likely to be carrying any of the load. If it is a two story addition everything above should be moved to get as much weight off the corner as you can. When you get to see the sheeting you can get a feel if what’s there would benefit from a few more screws as a stop gap. If there is a basement below with a ceiling that should come off to get a view from below also.

Without seeing a problem it’s all speculation at this point.

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Old 06-06-2013, 09:42 AM  
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I agree with removing drywall and insulation but most times this can be lifted with out touching the siding or sheeting above the rim joist until the structure has been fixed. I like to use the OP as my eyes so I can see everything that I would look at if I was on site. Keep in mind that the OP may be with or with out knowledge of structure and often over or understate the problem. Getting a good picture of the stucture, it's weight loads as well as the probem is the challange and even a photo sometimes can just give a narrow vission.

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Old 06-06-2013, 09:50 AM  
Millercchase
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The reason I haven't pulled off anymore siding is it will have to be replaced. Type of pressed Wood lap siding. It's a single story house built conventional. Concrete footings with cinder blocks. Im no carpenter but I don't think there's any way to sister since its the perimeter joist. It's paneling so when I get the washer and dryer moved I'll just tear it off to see the extent of damage. If it wasn't for the outer parallel joist being rotten I'd feel much better about jacking and replacing the sill and the rim if this were good. The corner is still holding the load structurally it's just sagging ~an inch. I'll post a drawing in a few. It's a crawl space and these joists are about 2ft off the ground on cinder block footings



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