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Old 03-21-2014, 10:27 AM  
NorPlan
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Default Retaining Wall over Culvert Pipe...

7 years ago I had widened our Laneway, the culvert pipe in the ditch entering the property stuck out a good 8 ft on both sides of the existing one lane entrance..One side had more of a slope to it so the retaining wall was short..The otherside , as the ditch has about a 45' angle on both sides and were talking a depth of 5 ft. From the top of the present Retaining Wall to the top of the Culvert Pipe..And the distance from the road to the property is 13 ft..

The problem was Self Inflicted, When I built the Retaining Wall and filling in the space with Crushed Stone..I'd fill in about 2ft. Then used my Son's fat tired jeep to pack down, running back and forth.You guessed it , this pushed the wall out a bit..The existing Wall was built with 6 X 6 Timbers, nailed on top of each other using 8" nails..I also used 10ft. steel fence posts pounded down on the outside of the wall..

Fast forward to today, through time the Timbers have become somewhat Water Logged and with the Hot Summer Sun it has started to split and cave in in spots along the top last year...The Debate is what method should I use to Replace the Existing Wall...Interlocking Stones, Poured Concrete, I even thought of the wire cage idea ( 1'W X 2' X 2' ) Blocks with the steel fence posts pounded down through...Thoughts and Ideas Appreciated, Cheers ...Thanks....


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Old 03-21-2014, 02:09 PM  
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PleasePostAPic.

Or several from several angles, I can't visualize this setup.



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Old 03-21-2014, 05:07 PM  
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So do you have pipe sticking out now or are you right at the end? and welcome to the site.

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Old 03-21-2014, 06:02 PM  
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So do you have pipe sticking out now or are you right at the end? and welcome to the site.

. @ Wuzzat....Sorry No Pic's....The condition of the Timbers and slight lean has to be addressed is the issue basically....

@ nealtw....I'm right on the edge of the culvert pipe so I'll have to Dig a trench on the inside of the retaining wall.....
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Old 03-21-2014, 06:32 PM  
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What you built should have lasted if done right And would be the cheapest to build again.
You should have dug into the bank on both sides so the timber was supported by a foot of dirt on both sides. 6x6 come as long as 16 ft so one peice across the ditch for most of the them and a few dead mans on the way up (dead man) is a peice going back under the drive way to help anchor the wall. Build the wall with a slight tilt back toward the driveway and use 10" nails HDG. Leave a few holes in the wall with good drain rock so water does not get trapped inside.

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Old 03-21-2014, 07:46 PM  
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The problem with this
http://books.google.com/books?id=XLl...deburg&f=false
is that you need to know soil types & whatever and the math can get involved.

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Old 03-21-2014, 10:42 PM  
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Quote:
The Debate is what method should I use to Replace the Existing Wall...Interlocking Stones, Poured Concrete, I even thought of the wire cage idea ( 1'W X 2' X 2' ) Blocks with the steel fence posts pounded down through...Thoughts and Ideas Appreciated, Cheers ...Thanks....
The mason picks concrete, the carpenter picks railroad ties, the plumber picks a longer pipe. What material are you comfortable working with?
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Old 03-22-2014, 07:47 AM  
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The mason picks concrete, the carpenter picks railroad ties, the plumber picks a longer pipe. What material are you comfortable working with?

Good Comeback, Originally as my neighbor has a portable sawmill and I had almost a 1/2 load of topsoil leftover..We traded materials....Yes the wood wasn't treated, it lasted 7 yrs...I'm leaning towards either poured concrete or HD Wire cages filled with pit run (2"Rock)....Have a Cement Plant or Quarry 5 minutes in either direction from our home..We've always been successful at negotiating a terrific price & delivery..It's how labor intensive either is going to be ??..Drainage to will have tobe Considered as well...lol...
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Old 03-22-2014, 09:47 AM  
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Can you extend the pipe to allow more slope?


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Old 03-23-2014, 10:06 AM  
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Can you extend the pipe to allow more slope?


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And if the slope equals the angle of repose for your soil (around 35 degrees up from the horiz) there will be no pressure on the wall.


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