DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum

DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum (http://www.houserepairtalk.com/forum.php)
-   Framing and Foundation (http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f32/)
-   -   Structure support? (http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f32/structure-support-14863/)

bryce 10-07-2012 11:01 AM

Structure support?
 
Hi Guys, i well into the renovation of the 1947 1.5 story house.

The house is 26'x26' what i found is that there are 3 (2x6) together along the middle of the house about 12' over, there are 3 metal support to the foundations. Is this adequate support? We were planning to support it further by put in the some bolts right through. Do you think i need an extra wall down there?
We are putting in new walls for insulation, hardwood ceilings. The middle of the house along this beam runs the bathroom and staircase up to the attic, so a lot of weight on it. Already there is lots of shifting of the floors but my old carpenter things it is no big deal.

AndyGump 10-07-2012 12:00 PM

It seems to me that it must be adequate support to have lasted this long without failing. But I am not sure what you mean by 'lots of shifting of the floors'.
Do you mean the floors are sagging?

Andy.

bryce 10-07-2012 01:58 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Yes i'm noticing a few issues, there is broken joist in the basement, this is close to the first stair of the staircase that was moved. I think this new staircase is not that old., i put a level there and it is down about 1/4"
My carpenter guy says to put some 2x4" attached there, i think we need more support in the basement. I'm think what is better than footers with concrete would be just a new support wall with 2x4.
We already found no squash box under the stair case pillar.
The main support, one of the 2x6 are slipping out of place, the metal support pillar does not connect very well to that 3rd beam. There is lack of nail holding the big 3 beams together.
Hard to say what part of the flooring in this house is not crooked, having said that there is no major problems. The west side that has the driveway has tilted down, i think it is because of silting of years of gravel driveways. The other day we put 6" concrete on the outside basement window opening, the basement window on that side are completely rotten, the driveway is too low and pools up with water if rains hard. We are adding a drain pipe along the side there that should help. We also have to raise the door.
Lucky the foundation all seem in good shape beside a couple of holes, i think hydrolic cement i need?
The main floor slopes toward the center of the house to the base of the staircase with the main support under it. I think i need to put more support under it. I notice the carpenter and anyone else i ask seem a bit unsure of what to say. Of course they will do it if money is to be made. The guy i working for me is a licensed carpenter but 72 years old (he works cheap.)

nealtw 10-08-2012 09:39 PM

The beam should have had 3 nails every 16", If the they are spread a little bolting thru the center would be a good idea. Add a wall for more support will not help unless the is a curb visible to build it on, likely only the posts have a footing. Three 2x6s seem a little small for a beam but if it has not sagged between the posts it is fine. You could jack up the beam to level the floor and add height to the posts. The broken joist should be lifted back up to the right level and laminate a same size piece to the side of it with glue and lots of screws. The peice should be as long as possible and if possible the whole length.

bryce 10-09-2012 05:38 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Thanks Neal that more or less what the carpenter said.

I'm wonder if the structure can support 3/4 oak on the sloped ceilings?

It's heavy stuff and i was planning to cover the main beams too now i am think it's crazy it will be too heavy??
Actually i was thinking Hickory 6-1/4" dry wall on the inside and the two side walls.
I wonder how much 5x26' of hickory would be on the roof structure ?

nealtw 10-09-2012 05:55 PM

Hickory is more than 3 lbs per sq ft for 3/4"
Ceilings are often 24" on center and require 5/8 drywall so it dosn't sag.
5/8 drywall is 2.4 lbs per sq. ft

bryce 10-09-2012 07:13 PM

Good lord with dry wall and this wood it would collapse. Funny how no one wants to tell you this.
I think now, dry wall on the inside and chip board on the slope. Just sand and paint the ceiling as is on the beams, and repair the above floor boards.

You can see how the carpenter is corrupt and just wants the work from and doesn't want to tell me otherwise. He's working for $20/hr and the other guy $15, so i suspect they want to drag jobs out.

What do you think of 3/4" Hickory on the walls vertically? That might be good for the structure.

nealtw 10-09-2012 09:18 PM

You have added to the rafters. I would think they are a lot stronger now, perhaps if youy could tie the nee wall to the rafters and the beems the roof structure could carry some of the load. Then you might want the nee wall covered with plywood to make it structural and stiff. Just thinkin??

AndyGump 10-09-2012 11:43 PM

How did you come to the conclusion that yours is a 1 and 1/2 story house?

From the pictures it looks like a single story with attic space.

Are you intending to make the attic space into extra living space?

Andy.

BridgeMan 10-12-2012 11:46 AM

The next time you're in the basement, put a carpenter's level on that horizontal run of water heater vent pipe. It could just be photo distortion, but the picture sure looks like the run has downward slope running towards the chimney, instead of upward as required.

Carbon monoxide kills.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:24 PM.