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Old 06-26-2014, 10:48 AM  
Jungle
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Thanks, some great tips. I figure 5 feet is not so dangerous. I imagine working with a guy in the ditch and guy on the mini ex is more dangerous.
It is calling for bits of rain everyday for the next week, so even the rental guy suggested i wait to it is dry.
I've taken the old cladding off. Man that stuff is expensive new, like $5 a sq foot. I think i should use hardie board. i can run it right down to the weeping tile as the final protector for the polystyrene. only $1.25 a sq foot.

I am planning,

1) Pressure wash.
2) hydrological cement any cracks.
3) Rubberize water poof paint
4) 2.5" of foam glues on and the bottom edge
5) Plastic wrap
6) Hardie board all the way up to the vinyl siding. I wonder how i can attach the seams? Tuck tape everything i guess. Should stay one by the soil pressure.
7) then install the weeping pipes. Get ready for gutter drain pipes.
8) Order gravel
9) Get mini ex again or other type
10) Back fill half way then install gutter drains.
11) adjust grading so equal around entire house.
12) Layer of landscape fabric
13) Put 24x24" patio tiles on front and back so snow can be easily removed in winter.
14) fill edges with sand

That will be 20k sir! In reality it will probably only increase the property value 5-10k. See why working for other people is better than yourself.



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Old 06-26-2014, 11:47 AM  
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Just a few thoughts.
Years ago I worked installing sewer pipe. I was on my hands and knees fitting a pipe together and just stud up when the side of a 4 ft ditch slumped in, I was backfilled to my knees and stuck and had to be dug out by others. Just a few seconds earlier I would have been in big trouble. Pay attention to water flowing from the sides of the ditch. The second guy is the guy that may have to save a life.

3) Rubberize water poof paint

Some materials are not compatable with foam

I would take a little different approach

I would forgo the waterproofing on the wall, glue the foam right to the concrete close the seams between the foam board with glue or foam rated caulk.
cover the foam with water proof membrane," not to expensive". just up to or just above the finished fill level.
If you have wood siding you would be able to slip a flashing up under it to direct water out past the foam board, with vinyl side you would have to re and re the bottom peice.
Another flashing above the top of the membrane
Then stocco the exposed foam between the flashing and ground level.
There is a much thicker landscape fabric that you can't get in box stores
http://www.rona.ca/en/foundation-waterproofing-membrane-0382009--1
http://www.bwgeotextile.com/dev/nonwoven-geotextile-fabric.html



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Old 06-26-2014, 10:04 PM  
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Remember that gravel goes under the pipe also. So you need to have it on hand before you lay the pipe. You're gonna make a pipe burrito, with fabric being the outside layer all around the pipe & gravel.

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Old 06-29-2014, 02:37 PM  
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Blue seal, what i can tell it should keep the dampness completely out of the walls, if the foam is just glued, damp air might get in eventually, if the foam separates from the wall for example. $140 a pail it better be good. A strong vapor barrier.

I figure the weeping pipe is solid and will sit above the soil, i dug extra deep in some places. So there is a gap underneath, when the gravel goes on top it will just slide underneath. No?

I see the porch will not be possible, soil is very hard. I think i'll do the cement work, would really make a difference. I was gonna use the gap filler as glue when i put the foam over it. Are you saying the blue skin and polystyrene are not compatible? I'm consulting google.

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Old 06-30-2014, 12:57 AM  
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The rubber joint on the sewer pipe is normal when you join two different typs of pipe or when you can not spread the pipes to use the normal hub end. It shouldn't have been a problem but ??
When I said not compatable I was thinking you were using a tar type protuct on the wall that might affect the foam, just make sure you check what you are using.

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Old 06-30-2014, 04:22 AM  
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Hi Neal, ya a guy is coming today to do the rest of the digging.
I will get him to excavate around the pipe and try the fix myself.

-glue a length of ABS to extend the pipe, then the y join, then another short piece and the rubber gaskets, hopefully it was a clean break i don't have to cut that stuff. (I think if you see the metal gasket there must have been no rubber used.)

This blue seal is water soluble and you made me check the instruction which was good, it says to apply it a thickness of 0.6" !
So one pail is only 150sq. I figure i will use a bit less above grade.

I wonder if there is any hope to excavate under the porch, looks really hard stone and rock. It's too bad because there is a lot of muck around there.

I wonder if i should run out get this guy a poker rod right now? He has to dig 7'x3'x6' trench!

I will tell him to dig a 1 foot x 5" trench beside the footer.

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Old 06-30-2014, 10:19 AM  
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It looks like you have a coupling, not sure what the rusty part is but I would cut it back to insure a good joint.
http://www.missionrubber.com/Products/MissionEasternStandard.php

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Old 06-30-2014, 02:14 PM  
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okay i did it, but a little problem...connection pipe is 1" to far right. I guess i didn't let the glue cure enough before i attached it the other end, but it wouldn't fit otherwise. Should i do it over? I won't get it in the other end anyways. I think it is alright. Tape makes it look bad but i just added it for extra protection. I tested it before the tape and it didn't seem to leak. The other tape is just temporary. I'll but some rocks under it. I could take the tape off and put some silicon around it for good measure?
I just want to know, did i commit a plumbing sin?

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Old 06-30-2014, 02:34 PM  
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So i making a 6" x 8" trench measuring from the top of the footer. Then the burito shell, put the pipe in 2" high supported with a few rocks. Pour total 6" is enough? 2" will slide under the pipe. After 2" it will be 4"x15" wide to include the footer. Is that enough? How many yards should i order, roughly 90' permitter. I guess 1 yard of drainage gravel would be enough. I have lots of rocks around. I heard this area was a gravel yard at one time.

Foundations are in good shape i might add. Even after power washing and some rain these days, basement is bone dry. Seems some walls were very sticky with algae.

And what is back fill actually? Just the old dirt? Add some aggregate

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Old 07-02-2014, 12:23 AM  
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Don't trust the gravel to fall around the side put your gravel down and level it as best you can and lay your pipe, eight or ten inches above the pipe with gravel close up the cloth, adding a little gravel to the backfill dirt is great idea.
Gravel....If each foot of pipe will take one cubic foot of gravel, one yard will go 27 ft maybe 30 ft for a meter. !000 sq ft house has 140 ft of pipe = five meters. That's rough just change the numbers to fit your job.



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